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Discussion starter · #21 ·
Aha, I am trying to prevent future corrosion with the wax, not cure what's there now.

The underside does have some kind of wax, mainly around the box sections, but no where near enough to prevent what's happened.

It's this kind of O.E.M finish I am trying to achieve so that the underside looks as original as possible.
 
happychappy said:
Aha, I am trying to prevent future corrosion with the wax, not cure what's there now.

The underside does have some kind of wax, mainly around the box sections, but no where near enough to prevent what's happened.

It's this kind of O.E.M finish I am trying to achieve so that the underside looks as original as possible.
Hi, Still spray it straight on to the metal. No good having original rusty & corroded. Original wasn't painted :?
My Front & rear suspension is treated with Waxoyl. Pic of the rear.
SANY0276.JPG

Hoggy. :D
 

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happychappy said:
Aha, I am trying to prevent future corrosion with the wax, not cure what's there now.
Hi, If you don't cure what is there now you will have more corrosion in the future.
Hoggy. :D
 
Discussion starter · #24 ·
That's where an attack with a wire wheel, a coating of Krust (or similar) then finish with a top coat of Hammerite (or similar) comes in.

Think we may be a little at crossed purposes, the boot floor does have some paint on it, looks like a smooth primer, but no topcoat.

The waxoyl will be used in the box sections and a mist over the suspension,boot floor and surrounding nooks and crannies.
 
Discussion starter · #26 ·
You've certainly got me thinking....

But to spray clear Waxoyl over wire wheeled panels ain't gonna look good, it will look like a patchwork quilt!

I feel that I need to get it all one colour before overcoating with Waxoyl.
 
I'm a bit of a Triumph TR7 nut and own a few. It was a marmite car, but I owned one in the 80's and have always loved them!

Anyway, I've done lots of work on them over the years and done basically what you have, wire brushed and sanded back the rust the best I could, then degrease and clean everything, then painted everything with POR15, its very runny so gets into every part and dries rock hard. Its more money than Hammerite, but so much better. It works best being applied to cleaned back rust, rather than smooth clean metal. The only downside is its UV sensitive, so needs a coat of standard paint putting on top, I have always done that bit with an aerosol.

Dave
 
Discussion starter · #30 ·
I stand back and salute your affiliation to BL cars! :p

We really are gluttons for punishment..... veteran of a few, my fave being my Dolly Sprint.

Got any TRV8s? Used to know someone that rallied one (thumbs up and heart emoji...)

POR15 has crossed my mind, but I read somewhere that you can get Hammerite paint mixed to match car colours, if that is correct I will go that route, as it will then look like it should've looked like when it left the factory..... :roll:
 
You can always paint it in POR15 then spray over it in the colour you want. I've always done that just as the POR15 has almost gone off, but still slightly sticky, then the spray paint takes.

Do you still have your Dolly sprint? I owned one about 20ish years ago and did it all up, then my lady friend at the time used it and ran it with the oil pressure light on!! I ended up selling it for spares! It was a shame as it was a lovely car, the engine made it!

Two of my TR7 are V8, converted not original.
 
Discussion starter · #32 ·
Sadly no, the Sprint went ages ago,,,

Complete with F2 crank, blueprinted engine, roll cage carefully hidden inside roof lining, Spax suspension and twin 48s...t'was a bit of a beast :p

Will check out the POR stuff when I have ordered the suspension bits and shipped the metalwork off to the powdercoaters.

Thanks for the suggestion.
 
Discussion starter · #35 ·
AudiTTDave said:
You can always paint it in POR15 then spray over it in the colour you want. I've always done that just as the POR15 has almost gone off, but still slightly sticky, then the spray paint takes.

Do you still have your Dolly sprint? I owned one about 20ish years ago and did it all up, then my lady friend at the time used it and ran it with the oil pressure light on!! I ended up selling it for spares! It was a shame as it was a lovely car, the engine made it!

Two of my TR7 are V8, converted not original.
Is it the POR 15 Metal Prep you are talking about?

Some good reviews on the Met Prep.
 

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No its not the metal prep I was talking about its this, https://www.frost.co.uk/paints-coating- ... 946ml.html

But the metal prep is very good and gives a good surface to apply paint to. Ideally if you had enough of the stuff you could submerse each part in it, but the normal way is to brush it on and keep applying it, to not let the surface dry out, then after a given time, wash it off and dry the part. I use a hot air gun.

The only down side with the POR15 paint is if you put it on a smooth clean metal surface, it might peel off, it needs a good key.
It is quite pricey, but its very runny and goes a long way. It sort of dries like a hard plastic surface, because when some peeled off a smooth bit of metal it was like a plastic film, but very hard to break.
 
Discussion starter · #37 ·
Thanks David

I assumed that the POR 15 Met Prep was like a Kurust product, it's to be used over head on the boot rear floor (I will be laid on my back painting over head, ah bliss....)

Bit worried about the POR 15 paint as I will be rubbing the panels down with sandpaper/wire wheels to remove the rust before stabalising the last remnants of any corrosion, then painting and finally using Waxoyl to prevent any further corrosion where possible. Don't like the idea of it peeling away...
 
It will only peel if the surface is super smooth and not keyed. But if you are using metal prep, then that will key the surface so the paint will attach. It does dry rock hard and if knocked won't chip like a normal paint, so ideal on suspension parts.

The metal prep will be no good for your boot floor though as its like water.

I have painted parts in both smoothrite and POR15 paint and after a few years the Smoothrite needs repainting, but the POR15 is still good.

Its up to you at the end of the day what products you use, but it would be good if you could update your post with your progress and pictures. (This is the Triumph restoration part of me coming out!)
 
Discussion starter · #39 ·
Thanks for the info regarding the Metal Prep, bit worried about it being such a free running liquid consistency although I have had a little go with Kurust (and that appears to be a very similar consistency) on one of the chassis rails and all has gone well,

I do like the idea of the POR paint, but the jury's still out regards the POR and Hammerite paint, especially if I can get a colour match with the Hammerite.

I know it will never be seen, unless up on a ramp, but there is nothing like a servicing garage/MOT examiner catching up after work has been completed to compliment your high maintenance standards.

Order was placed today for all new suspension arm components, bolts and shocks - Sachs and Lemforder are the brands I have opted for.

This afternoon I dropped the subframe, anti roll bar, coil springs and a couple of smaller bits - exhaust hangers etc to the powder coaters, so now I move onto cleaning up the rear underside, toying with the idea of dropping the fuel tank to gain more access... :p
 
Discussion starter · #40 ·
Update

The Fuel tank is now off and it's looking just a little bit bare under there... :p

I now have a complete clear view of the corrosion on the rear underside and am pleased to say that it's not as bad as I had feared, would've been better if there was none, but hey ho...

Worst part was the subframe and suspension, but it's all under control and lots of new parts will soon be winging their way from Germany, hopefully to coincide with a trip to the powdercoaters to pick up the subframe and other bits.

A couple of pics to show just how bare the rear of the car looks now, in actual fact I think I have more parts scattered around the house/garage than on the car! :p
 

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