[AudiTTDave]

The pictures are good, like you say there doesn't look a lot left! But the corrosion doesn't look too bad, but I am used to looking at Triumphs!

Are you replacing all the rear bushes, using complete suspension arms where you can? including the subframe bushes?
You mention shock absorbers, are you going to replace the front shocks as well and bushes at some stage?

But just think of the feel good factor when you put everything back together and it looks like new, that is definitely the best bit and even when you drive it you will be feeling good about all the work you have done!

 

[happychappy]

The suspension arms will all be brand new and they come pre-bushed, the only captive bush to change is in the wheel bearing housing which I have ordered and it will be done when they arrive.

There are no bushes specific to the subframe.

I do intend to do the front end, maybe next winter, but after careful examination and a few days drive (yep, only driven this car for a couple of days before popping up on stands and wrapping it up for the winter ) all seemed fine with the front end.

A couple of tiny scabs on the front shocks but that's it, cleaned up really nice and looks pretty good with refurbished front calipers and new discs/pads.

Can't wait to get it finished, but I won't rush, it's not in my nature....maaaaaan.....

Footnote

AudiTTDave

Just been doing some research into the POR15 paint.

Looks like it's a bit of a non starter due to the prep process, two stages that both need washing off, that's gonna be a hell of a job!

I will be working on my back under the car supported on jack stands and so wanna be under there for as little time as possible, getting old....

Any other suggestions?

I am going a little bit cold on my Kurust/Hammerite paint/Waxoyl idea at the moment too.

Thanks for any ideas.

 

[83kY]

One "combo" I can personally recommend is made from two Bilthamber products. First I would treat the bare metal/surface rust spots with Hydrate 80 - clean with brake cleaner or similar to get a oil-free surface, Hydrate is quite watery but can be applied upside down. Then apply a second layer and maybe even a third. After that I would paint over the area with Epoxy Mastic (2K) paint. Hard and durable finish and two products which are meant to be used together.

Hydrate 80 is kinda like those rust converters which have been sold for ages but won't repel paint like most of those old products. When applying it is milkish and with a tint of blue and it leaves a black finish when dried and needs a layer of paint over it because it turns back to blueish and slowly comes off if it comes in contact with water.

 

[happychappy]

Thanks 83kY

I have heard good things about Bilthamber products, sounds a bit like Hammerite Kurust, will check it out.

Great idea regarding the Epoxy Mastic paint, isn't that the stuff recommended for calipers?

 

[AudiTTDave]

You don't have to do the pre stages with the POR15, as long as the rust is sanded back as much as possible and de-greased, which you would have to do with any paint, then you can paint it straight over rust.

I wouldn't go down the epoxy mastic route as its 2 pack paint and that's very dangerous stuff to use, especially in an semi enclosed area. You really need an air fed mask to be safe.

The more I'm reading your post the more I think I'm going to go down the same route in the future. I think the idea of the seperate subframe is a good one, especially as you can check all the other bits like brakes, brake pipes, wheel bearings etc.

 

[happychappy]

The jury is still out regarding what route to take to try to eradicate the corrosion.

Each recommendation has it's merits and it's downfalls in my eyes, but one thing for sure is that I really do need to get my skates on as the new parts are about to be dispatched and I would imagine it's only another week until the parts at the powdercoaters arrive back.

I really want a near perfect finish that's tough,durable, easy to apply, readily available and reasonably priced, don't want much do I

Going to spend this weekend doing some more research with a view to ordering bits on Monday.

Any other ideas/input peeps?

Update

Anyone used Bilt Hamber Electrox before?

Anygood?

https://www.bilthamber.com/corrosion-pr ... s/electrox

 

[happychappy]

update

A decision has been reached!

After a lovely and informative conversation with a tech guy at Bilt Hamber I am going for their one brand solution.

My work plan for the corrosion will be:-

1 - Wire wheel/sand back as much corrosion as possible.

2 - Areas that are difficult to access I.e. wheelarch liner hangers will be dealt with by Bilt Hamber Deox Gel.

3 - When clear of corrosion a coat of Bilt Hamber Ekectrox will treat the exposed metal and stop any further corrosion.

4 - This will be topped with Bilt Hamber Epoxy Mastic, brushed, not sprayed to try to keep what's left of my lungs

5 - Bilt Hamber Dynax S50 wax will be used in the box sections and inside the subframe tubular sections.

6 - Bilt Hamber Dynax UB wax will treat the floor areas.

7 - Bilt Hamber Dynax UC wax will be sprayed liberally over suspension components once in place and bolted up.

Sounds so easy when writing it down, but there is a lot of hard work there, better get my order in soon!

A link to the Bilt Hamber website:-

https://www.bilthamber.com/

 

[Wolvez]

Why not just use electrolysis to kill rust & corrosion? Then reverse the polarity to protect it or plate it with thin coating of zinc. Did you modified the grounding point of your rear tail light? What caused the corrosion? Clogged battery vent?

 

[happychappy]

It's all exterior corrosion, all above the rear suspension units, none inside the boot or at the front.

I am not alone in this predicament, to be honest it's hard to see unless the car is up on ramps, check your own, you may be surprised!

I think that it was a car that was used as a car and not a toy/treat like I am intending to do.

Not touched the lights, other than to take them out for a clean.

Battery vent is attached to battery and fine.

*The Electrox has a very high zinc content

https://www.bilthamber.com/paints-and-coatings/electrox

 

[Wolvez]

Audi has 12 year manufacturer warranty for bodywork against corrosion perforation for new vehicles from the date of first registration or delivery of the vehicle to the original retail customer, whichever comes first.

 

[happychappy]

Sadly I am not the first registered owner and the corrosion has not perforated anywhere.

On the body work it's surface rust, the suspension components are worse, but I don't believe that they would be covered.

I did think about the warranty, but it's a bit late as the car has been stripped back and is in a non moveable state at the moment.

I am quite particular about the upkeep of vehicles and what many people would say is fine would be a disaster for me hence my quest to return the vehicle to as close to as new condition as I can reasonably get, for me it's a hobby and a challenge and to be honest many people would never have known that the corrosion was there until the car was up on ramps.

Thanks for the suggestion though.

 

[AudiTTDave]

Looks a good plan to treat the areas. I've never used their products, but would be keen to see how it goes on and looks.

Will you be painting the new suspension arms before fitting them?
I ordered some parts from Auto Doc, I presume from where you got yours, about 3 weeks ago and they arrived today! The prices are good from Germany as long as you don't mind the wait.

 

[happychappy]

Using Bilt Hamber products to cure this corrosion will be a first for me, to be honest I have not had to deal with corrosion on a car for around 20+ years so it's still all a bit of a shock.

I won't be painting any of the suspension components as they already seem to have a decent drop of paint on them, other than the drop links, which seem to only have a clear coat finish on them, I will use more clear coat before smothering all of the suspension parts with the appropriate BH waxes as I reassemble the rear of the car.

AutoDoc were recommended by a friend and I have nothing but praise for them so far. Sure, it takes a while to receive the parts, but the range compared to GSF and ECP is wide and full of quality companies, highly recommended.

Got all my suspension bits on Wednesday, they are now checked, labelled (bolts were a mare.... ) and ready to fit once corrosion has been treated in the next few weeks.

 

[happychappy]

Update

Right, so I am now ready to use some corrosion prevention wax under the car after a good few months of dealing with the surface rust.

In the end I :-

1 - steam cleaned

2 - Wire brushed and Bilt Hamber DEOX-Gel'd the hanger areas where I could get to with the various wire brushes.

3 - Used Bilt Hamber ELECTROX zinc primer liberally to cover the areas worked on

4 - Used Bilt Hamber EPOXY-MASTIC to cover and seal the areas worked on

5 - Sprayed body colour over the EPOXY-MASTIC

6 - Clear coated over the paint

I now have to decide what to do regards a wax corrosion prevention layer.

Originally I was going to go for Bilt Hamber products, but I am wondering if good old Waxoyl will be ok?

What say the TT massive?

A few pics

 

[MT-V6]

Looks very clean under there, good work

 

[Iceblue]

It definitely looks brand new. Well done and keep posting the progress, its inspiring.

 

[deextr]

Looks brilliant. Wish I had the time to do the same.

 

[Pete Mac]

Hi Happy,
Just picked up your thread. Congratulations on your transformation. I also have owned the same as yours for the last 4 yrs. mostly a sunny day example with only 31000 mls and immaculate. I too suffer from the OCD affliction.
I can wholeheartedly recommend All BH Products above anything else including waxoyl as I have used them all with exception of the epoxy. I used Waxoyl when it first appeared on the market, then marketed by Finnigans ( yes I'm now 70 but still an enthusiast)
Good luck and hope to read of any updates. Regards