Which version of the MK1 TT do you have as there a few different versions of the front & rear subframes depending on if it is a Roadster or Coupe and 1.8T or V6

 

I am ashamed to say I am not sure - I’ll check . My garage wants £2500 to sort it out . But will reduce the price if I buy the sub frame. It has done a lot of miles but I still don’t want to scrap her

 

Removing my front subframe (225 Roadster quattro) took me about two and a half hours, so someone who had done it before would do it in under two - I wasn't rushing, I had to do the job as one of the captive nuts had pulled out, and I just thought I'd start the job by removing things I've removed before and it spiralled from there. Putting the replacement in is about the same, but you do have to take into account setting the alignment afterwards as it'll probably disturb the camber and toe. I've never done the back one. The issue is when you run into bad threads, or captive nuts that turn, and have to use special techniques to get them undone.

 

It sounds terrifying . I commend your skills

 

Having tried this in my Celica and taken it to a independent in the end because one of the bolts siezed and snapped, leaving me with a rear subframe 3/4 attached to the car... No amount of plus gas was going to help.

This was what happened.

£150 for new subframe direct from Toyota.
£35 for hammerite and pre prep tools to treat the subframe.

I was hoping to have it done myself under £200 with my labour free.

What I didn't account for was that I would have to get someonelse to look at it which cost me about £500 in labour to replace the subframe (it wasn't a particularly nice job and found most places wanted an easy life and rejected the work - but still not too difficult to find someone)

£150 for new bushes after they damaged the final set burning it off.

£50 for 2nd hand camber arms I sourced and sprayed myself after these were discovered to be compromised once the subframe was off.

Once stripped the entire rear end of the car in a state and I had to really think about what I did with the car going forward. The subframe was indicative of rust that was occurring throughout the rest of the car.

I slapped some wax oil over it and it got me through 2 more MOT's and still see the car 5 years later now driving about.

I guess what I'm saying is that once you start it. Look at absolutely everything, the price could escalate dramatically if you are looking to future proof your baby... But it's cheaper to do it all at once. My budget was completely blows apart from £200 to £1,000 and it still needed a lot of work. Those cars were rust buckets, but might be worth having someone involved in restoration get it up on a ramp and have a good look beforehand.

Edit - my prices were from 2018/19.

 

Excellent break down of the eventualities there . Very useful advice . I think I ‘ll see the garage and get the sub frames replaced . It’s still WAY cheaper than another car

 

How did you get on, Kate?

 

Yeah, I just picked up on the thread. Totoya Celica updates and whatnot. £2.5 k for a subframe refurb, sounds like that ladys garage where proper taking advantage- big time I bet.
What would they charge for a timing belt change? £1500? Give them a skip thanks but no thanks.

 

Yeah... sounds like a lot but what else was included?

If you are replacing the subframes you should really think about the extras whilst it's off... ?

Front Subframe
New Bolts (steering rack and sub frame - £80)
Steering rack gaiters
Track rod ends
Lower ball joints
Drop links
ARB bushes
Tracking
Probably after looking at it
downpipe and sports cat
drive shafts or CV joints and boots
Dog bone bushes
ARB due to paint loss leading to loose ARB bushes
Wheel speed sensors,
Discs and pads (probably lead to replacement calipers when nipple snaps
Tracking
Plus the 3 foot extender at 300nm torque wrench and heavy duty sockets
You should really think about doing the clutch whilst so much of the stuff is off.

Rear Subframe
control arms and bushes
Springs and dampers
Rear wishbone bushes
What you will probably find
Rear calipers siezed, so full repair kits with pistons and seals, but caliper handbrake mechanism is faulty (and not servicable) you'll break your brake wind-back tool in the process.
When removing the neck box it'll break off and the rubbers and their respective components will break.
You'll replace the seized headlight level sensor, they seize and snap the arm (but then realise your auto-level headlights are also broken...)
You'll add a new earth strap from the haldex to the body, that will require a new hole into the boot as the old post is dead..
You will also change the haldex oil and filter whilst it's all up in the air, and break off the under body plastic sheild posts... to give the filter tool enough space to move.
You'll also change the Rear diff oil but forget to make sure you can remove the filler plug first


So that lot is easily £2.5k

 

Yeah... sounds like a lot but what else was included?

If you are replacing the subframes you should really think about the extras whilst it's off... ?

Front Subframe
New Bolts (steering rack and sub frame - £80)
Steering rack gaiters
Track rod ends
Lower ball joints
Drop links
ARB bushes
Tracking
Probably after looking at it
downpipe and sports cat
drive shafts or CV joints and boots
Dog bone bushes
ARB due to paint loss leading to loose ARB bushes
Wheel speed sensors,
Discs and pads (probably lead to replacement calipers when nipple snaps
Tracking
Plus the 3 foot extender at 300nm torque wrench and heavy duty sockets
You should really think about doing the clutch whilst so much of the stuff is off.

Rear Subframe
control arms and bushes
Springs and dampers
Rear wishbone bushes
What you will probably find
Rear calipers siezed, so full repair kits with pistons and seals, but caliper handbrake mechanism is faulty (and not servicable) you'll break your brake wind-back tool in the process.
When removing the neck box it'll break off and the rubbers and their respective components will break.
You'll replace the seized headlight level sensor, they seize and snap the arm (but then realise your auto-level headlights are also broken...)
You'll add a new earth strap from the haldex to the body, that will require a new hole into the boot as the old post is dead..
You will also change the haldex oil and filter whilst it's all up in the air, and break off the under body plastic sheild posts... to give the filter tool enough space to move.
You'll also change the Rear diff oil but forget to make sure you can remove the filler plug first


So that lot is easily £2.5k

Yea that's 100% right. Luckily when I took mine in they didn't burn the bushes out. Think they would have added £350 at cost + the garages labour and tume to fit...

It really can just mount up.

 

I think there's enough people about to do the work. But I have found a lot of garages now aren't really engineers or mechanics.

They just want to replace a component. Ideally one that a diagnostic computer tells them to replace.

Anything like hard, dirty work and people just want to overcharge in the hope you take it elsewhere.

I hope the OP got this sorted out.

 

I should really stop reading tech threads... old cars ££. new cars £££ - .. its all £££