Best opening five lines to a build thread I've seen in a while!

Just wondering - did you not get Bills ported manifold with the turbo and TIP? I thought they came as a package together rather than going with the relentless one.

 

Best opening five lines to a build thread I've seen in a while!

Just wondering - did you not get Bills ported manifold with the turbo and TIP? I thought they came as a package together rather than going with the relentless one.

Thanks !

He wasn't offering the package at the time and I have reason to believe that the V4 will flow better - Around 100 I'd say have been fitted and only 1 has cracked so I'm pretty confident about the reliability too! Should be interesting to see how this set up manages and what I can manage to achieve with a stock looking car.

Truth be told the goal is to hit the magic 300HP/tonne if I do that I shall be happy!

 

I would say very optimistic figures power and weight reduction.

400hp from that hybrid with WMI or with out?

Good luck with your build

PS.-it`s with WMI,maybe if you use only methanol with out water should help chasing big no

 

I would say very optimistic figures power and weight reduction.

400hp from that hybrid with WMI or with out?

Good luck with your build

PS.-it`s with WMI,maybe if you use only methanol with out water should help chasing big no

Absolutely not power wise.
The fact many of you run engines with rods over there and hybrid turbos and aren't breaking the 400bhp (not whp) threshold is simply because of underwhelming tuning.
With WMI, this setup will have no problems hitting that mark. He just needs to run more boost than 19lbs like most of the uk crowd does
The weight is a different story, keeping a stock looking and hitting 1300kg will be very very hard...

 

Gonzo,you are a tuner and i don`t know :lol:

Anyway,it`s not about only the boost,a small turbo if you push it to much you end up having intake hot air and high egt.

Recently a very few people came with this big hp on this small frame turbos(with wmi,how much power with out wmi?);personally i don`t like and trust hybrids if you chase big power,i prefer a good,reliable turbo.

I`m not part of UK crowd,i`m east european,not coz it`s matter for me,but for you looks like it does. :lol:

 

Gonzo,you are a tuner and i don`t know :lol:

Anyway,it`s not about only the boost,a small turbo if you push it to much you end up having intake hot air and high egt.

Recently a very few people came with this big hp on this small frame turbos(with wmi,how much power with out wmi?);personally i don`t like and trust hybrids if you chase big power,i prefer a good,reliable turbo.

I`m not part of UK crowd,i`m east european,not coz it`s matter for me,but for you looks like it does. :lol:

Well by the "uk crowd", I am referring to this forum. Since it is hosted and primarily frequented by people from the UK. :wink:

The ideology on this forum is to run really (and I mean really) conservative builds and tunes. I see people who could be pushing that benchmark and way past it, but are instead running really conservative tunes on hybrid turbos with a built engine. Coming from other forums where people with similar setups make nasty amounts of power (400whp and up), it's just strange and a little bit sad to see people not taking these cars to their full potential when they are trying to build them up. And it all stems from misinformation.

 

If you're going for a Stealth set up where are you going to mount your W/M Container ?? [smiley=gossip.gif]

 

Washer bottle could be one place. Hopefully the V4 holds out for you as well dude.

 

If you're going for a Stealth set up where are you going to mount your W/M Container ?? [smiley=gossip.gif]

I've got an idea... :wink:

 

Who put theirs in a laptop bag in the boot? Was that you Mondo?

 

Washer bottle could be one place. Hopefully the V4 holds out for you as well dude.

This is were I'm planning mine. Built in sensor to detect when mix/fluid is low, and it's completely stealth.

 

If you're going for a Stealth set up where are you going to mount your W/M Container ?? [smiley=gossip.gif]

Battery relocation gives you plenty of space to hide the reservoir and pump 8)

 

I would say very optimistic figures power and weight reduction.

400hp from that hybrid with WMI or with out?

Good luck with your build

PS.-it`s with WMI,maybe if you use only methanol with out water should help chasing big no

Cheers for the luck, 410HP would be my dream figure, 370HP is what I'm expecting as an absolute minimum, 390 would make me happy so long as I am able to get my weight down enough to make 300HP/tonne but I would really love to crack 400HP on the dyno and I think with the set-up I will be using it may well happen, but only time will tell (months to wait yet).

Absolutely not power wise.
The fact many of you run engines with rods over there and hybrid turbos and aren't breaking the 400bhp (not whp) threshold is simply because of underwhelming tuning.
With WMI, this setup will have no problems hitting that mark. He just needs to run more boost than 19lbs like most of the uk crowd does
The weight is a different story, keeping a stock looking and hitting 1300kg will be very very hard...

This is why I'm using Unicorn Developments, they are supposed to push things more than other tuners - they're a good bunch who develop launch control - anti-lag and flat-shift before other tuners as well so they don't just pinch ideas, the only problem is that their rollers are typically very brutal !

If you're going for a Stealth set up where are you going to mount your W/M Container ?? [smiley=gossip.gif]

I was planning on putting it in the recess where the space-saver spare wheel was underneath the boot liner floor.

Washer bottle could be one place. Hopefully the V4 holds out for you as well dude.

I hope so too Mick!

Who put theirs in a laptop bag in the boot? Was that you Mondo?

It was indeed.

 

Absolutely not power wise.
The fact many of you run engines with rods over there and hybrid turbos and aren't breaking the 400bhp (not whp) threshold is simply because of underwhelming tuning.
With WMI, this setup will have no problems hitting that mark. He just needs to run more boost than 19lbs like most of the uk crowd does
The weight is a different story, keeping a stock looking and hitting 1300kg will be very very hard...

This is why I'm using Unicorn Developments, they are supposed to push things more than other tuners - they're a good bunch who develop launch control - anti-lag and flat-shift before other tuners as well so they don't just pinch ideas, the only problem is that their rollers are typically very brutal !

Never heard of them, but any tuner that can make all of that happen is a good start. I run all of those. Launch Control imo is very important in these cars in order to take full advantage of our awd. What is the rev limiter going to be set to?

And to add to the thread, your build seems well developed and has all the key components. I have no doubt you will hit your target power goal.

As far as weight, without being able to gut the interior, and replacing some oem parts, you may not reach your weight goal. Things like aftermarket wheels, fmic, racing seats, rear seat delete, etc. are all very important pieces to the weight reduction puzzle.

 

Absolutely not power wise.
The fact many of you run engines with rods over there and hybrid turbos and aren't breaking the 400bhp (not whp) threshold is simply because of underwhelming tuning.
With WMI, this setup will have no problems hitting that mark. He just needs to run more boost than 19lbs like most of the uk crowd does
The weight is a different story, keeping a stock looking and hitting 1300kg will be very very hard...

This is why I'm using Unicorn Developments, they are supposed to push things more than other tuners - they're a good bunch who develop launch control - anti-lag and flat-shift before other tuners as well so they don't just pinch ideas, the only problem is that their rollers are typically very brutal !

Never heard of them, but any tuner that can make all of that happen is a good start. I run all of those. Launch Control imo is very important in these cars in order to take full advantage of our awd. What is the rev limiter going to be set to?

And to add to the thread, your build seems well developed and has all the key components. I have no doubt you will hit your target power goal.

As far as weight, without being able to gut the interior, and replacing some oem parts, you may not reach your weight goal. Things like aftermarket wheels, fmic, racing seats, rear seat delete, etc. are all very important pieces to the weight reduction puzzle.

I'm a little bit scared of using launch control as I know it can be hard on the clutch / flywheel / drivetrain but then again by the same token it seems silly not to use it if it's there? I'll have the rev limiter at 7.5k

I hope the build works out well, I will change the wheels out for some light 7.5KG per corner ones, sadly the seats and carpetting are staying on the inside - which I agree - may certainly cause problems. All mods apart from that for weight saving are done / will be done though so it shouldn't be TOOOOOO bad.

V4 Manifold heatwrapped:

 

This is why I'm using Unicorn Developments, they are supposed to push things more than other tuners - they're a good bunch who develop launch control - anti-lag and flat-shift before other tuners as well so they don't just pinch ideas, the only problem is that their rollers are typically very brutal !

Never heard of them, but any tuner that can make all of that happen is a good start. I run all of those. Launch Control imo is very important in these cars in order to take full advantage of our awd. What is the rev limiter going to be set to?

And to add to the thread, your build seems well developed and has all the key components. I have no doubt you will hit your target power goal.

As far as weight, without being able to gut the interior, and replacing some oem parts, you may not reach your weight goal. Things like aftermarket wheels, fmic, racing seats, rear seat delete, etc. are all very important pieces to the weight reduction puzzle.

I'm a little bit scared of using launch control as I know it can be hard on the clutch / flywheel / drivetrain but then again by the same token it seems silly not to use it if it's there? I'll have the rev limiter at 7.5k

I hope the build works out well, I will change the wheels out for some light 7.5KG per corner ones, sadly the seats and carpetting are staying on the inside - which I agree - may certainly cause problems. All mods apart from that for weight saving are done / will be done though so it shouldn't be TOOOOOO bad.

It depends man. I have well over 50 launches on my car and my clutch is still kicking hard. Not only that, I only do aggressive driving on it 90% of the time and it is still banging.
Obviously if you are on a stock clutch with 130k miles though be wary that you may need a new one before going crazy, but again that is common sense when modifying any vehicle.

And honestly if you can shed even 150lbs and still keep a stock look I'll be impressed.

 

It depends man. I have well over 50 launches on my car and my clutch is still kicking hard. Not only that, I only do aggressive driving on it 90% of the time and it is still banging.
Obviously if you are on a stock clutch with 130k miles though be wary that you may need a new one before going crazy, but again that is common sense when modifying any vehicle.

And honestly if you can shed even 150lbs and still keep a stock look I'll be impressed.

My clutch and flywheel is supposedly good for 400-450 ft/lb and it's only just been bed in and run in (1500 miles on it). Well so far I've done the following for weight saving:

- Superleggeras (24kg)
- Ballast / counterweight delete (17kg)
- Backbox delete (15kg)
- Spare wheel delete including tools (15kg)
- No cats or heavy Audi downpipe (10kg)
- Toe eye and bolts delete (6kg)
- Lightweight Battery PVR 22 Clubsport (6kg)
- Lightweight SMF (6kg)
- First aid kit, warning triangle delete, parcel shelf delete, undertray delete (5kg)
- Grooved drilled discs (4kg)
- N249 delete (1kg)

Sum 113kg of weight-loss, 30kg of that being unsprung rotational mass and 4kg being unsprung bodes well I hope! I also never fill my tank past half-way.

I think what my car will weigh is going to be just as interesting as the power it makes!

 

I went out of my way to get the missing bits for my tool kit so it's complete.

Trust me you will be cross if you ever need some plastic tweezers to remove a wheel nut cap or pull a thorn from a lion paw....

 

Anyway,it`s not about only the boost,a small turbo if you push it to much you end up having intake hot air and high egt.

Recently a very few people came with this big hp on this small frame turbos(with wmi,how much power with out wmi?);personally i don`t like and trust hybrids if you chase big power,i prefer a good,reliable turbo.

I`m not part of UK crowd,i`m east european,not coz it`s matter for me,but for you looks like it does. :lol:

If it wasn't about boost than we would all be running naturally aspirated engines. Boost is everything!!! :roll:

You take a fixed amount of air flowed by the motor/turbo (airflow in CFM) and making X amount of power, then you compress it 2 times atmospheric pressure, you will get X+1 power. You take that same volume flowed and you compress it 3 times atmospheric pressure, you'll get X+1+1 power. Values are made up, but you get the point. I have never increased boost on a turbo and not made more power as a result (obviously with increased fuel to match). Whenever there is compression, there will be heat generated. This can't be avoided, whether it's 0.5 time, 1 time, 2 times, or 3 times atmospheric pressure, you will generate heat. The solution is (and always has been) to cool the heated air charged, nothing more nothing else! The method or cooling demand may vary depending on how much heat generated through compression... you just need to provide cooling according to the demand.

I have compressed the the air charge on the factory turbo up to 33 psi (did it for years). Was it hot? Yes! Was I able to cool it to usable levels? Yes!!! The result, more power than anyone ever dreamed a standard K04 would make. Was it reliable? Absolutely! Turbo survived 13 years of street duty, 5 racing seasons, countless Dyno runs, etc. My EGT was in check, my AFR was on point... and all that with a timing curve that would make most so called 1.8t tuners shit their pants. I now run a hybrid on my TT, same formula, same result. Power way above the norm, and going strong. Why? The power of BOOST!

I already know the naysayers will say "but you have better fuel in the US". Well, I have done it on lower octane fuel than what's available in tbe UK at the pump. So that's not a valid point. Does it require solid tuning and a built motor? Yes! Do you need knowledge and skills to make it happen? Absolutely, but I am confident that talented tuners and solid builders do exist in Europe... Niki Gower at R-tech, Bill Brockbank at Badger5 are prime examples. You go to these guys with your plans, I know they can make it happen! Sorry for the rant, but this old cookie cutter UK-philosophy with building a TT is getting old. Wake up!

 

Anyway,it`s not about only the boost,a small turbo if you push it to much you end up having intake hot air and high egt.

Recently a very few people came with this big hp on this small frame turbos(with wmi,how much power with out wmi?);personally i don`t like and trust hybrids if you chase big power,i prefer a good,reliable turbo.

I`m not part of UK crowd,i`m east european,not coz it`s matter for me,but for you looks like it does. :lol:

If it wasn't about boost than we would all be running naturally aspirated engines. Boost is everything!!! :roll:

You take a fixed amount of air flowed by the motor/turbo (airflow in CFM) and making X amount of power, then you compress it 2 times atmospheric pressure, you will get X+1 power. You take that same volume flowed and you compress it 3 times atmospheric pressure, you'll get X+1+1 power. Values are made up, but you get the point. I have never increased boost on a turbo and not made more power as a result (obviously with increased fuel to match). Whenever there is compression, there will be heat generated. This can't be avoided, whether it's 0.5 time, 1 time, 2 times, or 3 times atmospheric pressure, you will generate heat. The solution is (and always has been) to cool the heated air charged, nothing more nothing else! The method or cooling demand may vary depending on how much heat generated through compression... you just need to provide cooling according to the demand.

I have compressed the the air charge on the factory turbo up to 33 psi (did it for years). Was it hot? Yes! Was I able to cool it to usable levels? Yes!!! The result, more power than anyone ever dreamed a standard K04 would make. Was it reliable? Absolutely! Turbo survived 13 years of street duty, 5 racing seasons, countless Dyno runs, etc. My EGT was in check, my AFR was on point... and all that with a timing curve that would make most so called 1.8t tuners shit their pants. I now run a hybrid on my TT, same formula, same result. Power way above the norm, and going strong. Why? The power of BOOST!

I already know the naysayers will say "but you have better fuel in the US". Well, I have done it on lower octane fuel than what's available in tbe UK at the pump. So that's not a valid point. Does it require solid tuning and a built motor? Yes! Do you need knowledge and skills to make it happen? Absolutely, but I am confident that talented tuners and solid builders do exist in Europe... Niki Gower at R-tech, Bill Brockbank at Badger5 are prime examples. You go to these guys with your plans, I know they can make it happen! Sorry for the rant, but this old cookie cutter UK-philosophy with building a TT is getting old. Wake up!

I wouldn't include Niki Gower, I spoke to him at R-tech and he pissed all over me and laughed his cock off when I said people were getting more than 350HP from 1.8T hybrids. This was about 7 months ago when the K418T was the most powerful commercial hybrid available. The guy knows a lot but their tunes seem conservative as well :/

 

Anyway,it`s not about only the boost,a small turbo if you push it to much you end up having intake hot air and high egt.

Recently a very few people came with this big hp on this small frame turbos(with wmi,how much power with out wmi?);personally i don`t like and trust hybrids if you chase big power,i prefer a good,reliable turbo.

I`m not part of UK crowd,i`m east european,not coz it`s matter for me,but for you looks like it does. :lol:

If it wasn't about boost than we would all be running naturally aspirated engines. Boost is everything!!! :roll:

You take a fixed amount of air flowed by the motor/turbo (airflow in CFM) and making X amount of power, then you compress it 2 times atmospheric pressure, you will get X+1 power. You take that same volume flowed and you compress it 3 times atmospheric pressure, you'll get X+1+1 power. Values are made up, but you get the point. I have never increased boost on a turbo and not made more power as a result (obviously with increased fuel to match). Whenever there is compression, there will be heat generated. This can't be avoided, whether it's 0.5 time, 1 time, 2 times, or 3 times atmospheric pressure, you will generate heat. The solution is (and always has been) to cool the heated air charged, nothing more nothing else! The method or cooling demand may vary depending on how much heat generated through compression... you just need to provide cooling according to the demand.

I have compressed the the air charge on the factory turbo up to 33 psi (did it for years). Was it hot? Yes! Was I able to cool it to usable levels? Yes!!! The result, more power than anyone ever dreamed a standard K04 would make. Was it reliable? Absolutely! Turbo survived 13 years of street duty, 5 racing seasons, countless Dyno runs, etc. My EGT was in check, my AFR was on point... and all that with a timing curve that would make most so called 1.8t tuners shit their pants. I now run a hybrid on my TT, same formula, same result. Power way above the norm, and going strong. Why? The power of BOOST!

I already know the naysayers will say "but you have better fuel in the US". Well, I have done it on lower octane fuel than what's available in tbe UK at the pump. So that's not a valid point. Does it require solid tuning and a built motor? Yes! Do you need knowledge and skills to make it happen? Absolutely, but I am confident that talented tuners and solid builders do exist in Europe... Niki Gower at R-tech, Bill Brockbank at Badger5 are prime examples. You go to these guys with your plans, I know they can make it happen! Sorry for the rant, but this old cookie cutter UK-philosophy with building a TT is getting old. Wake up!

Preach bro, preach. One day they will catch on lol.

I applaud Tom for taking the time to fully research everything and approach making his TT a monster and without settling for conservative figures or ideologies.

 

Anyway,it`s not about only the boost,a small turbo if you push it to much you end up having intake hot air and high egt.

Recently a very few people came with this big hp on this small frame turbos(with wmi,how much power with out wmi?);personally i don`t like and trust hybrids if you chase big power,i prefer a good,reliable turbo.

I`m not part of UK crowd,i`m east european,not coz it`s matter for me,but for you looks like it does. :lol:

If it wasn't about boost than we would all be running naturally aspirated engines. Boost is everything!!! :roll:

You take a fixed amount of air flowed by the motor/turbo (airflow in CFM) and making X amount of power, then you compress it 2 times atmospheric pressure, you will get X+1 power. You take that same volume flowed and you compress it 3 times atmospheric pressure, you'll get X+1+1 power. Values are made up, but you get the point. I have never increased boost on a turbo and not made more power as a result (obviously with increased fuel to match). Whenever there is compression, there will be heat generated. This can't be avoided, whether it's 0.5 time, 1 time, 2 times, or 3 times atmospheric pressure, you will generate heat. The solution is (and always has been) to cool the heated air charged, nothing more nothing else! The method or cooling demand may vary depending on how much heat generated through compression... you just need to provide cooling according to the demand.

I have compressed the the air charge on the factory turbo up to 33 psi (did it for years). Was it hot? Yes! Was I able to cool it to usable levels? Yes!!! The result, more power than anyone ever dreamed a standard K04 would make. Was it reliable? Absolutely! Turbo survived 13 years of street duty, 5 racing seasons, countless Dyno runs, etc. My EGT was in check, my AFR was on point... and all that with a timing curve that would make most so called 1.8t tuners shit their pants. I now run a hybrid on my TT, same formula, same result. Power way above the norm, and going strong. Why? The power of BOOST!

I already know the naysayers will say "but you have better fuel in the US". Well, I have done it on lower octane fuel than what's available in tbe UK at the pump. So that's not a valid point. Does it require solid tuning and a built motor? Yes! Do you need knowledge and skills to make it happen? Absolutely, but I am confident that talented tuners and solid builders do exist in Europe... Niki Gower at R-tech, Bill Brockbank at Badger5 are prime examples. You go to these guys with your plans, I know they can make it happen! Sorry for the rant, but this old cookie cutter UK-philosophy with building a TT is getting old. Wake up!

Preach bro, preach. One day they will catch on lol.

I applaud Tom for taking the time to fully research everything and approach making his TT a monster and without settling for conservative figures or ideologies.

Cheers Gonz, may as well do a job properly and as best as possible, mediocrity is simply not good enough.

 

Max,i don`t agree with you boost it`s everything;a smaller turbo at the same boost like a bigger one will flow less and hot air.
K04 it`s a tiny turbo with small housing,even if you put a bigger compressor,because the small housing to the end will be a restrictive turbo.(see the pic gtx2867r vs stock k04 for reference)

So,let`s see the facts:how much power on K04 hybrid with out WMI and regular gas?

 

I wouldn't include Niki Gower, I spoke to him at R-tech and he pissed all over me and laughed his cock off when I said people were getting more than 350HP from 1.8T hybrids. This was about 7 months ago when the K418T was the most powerful commercial hybrid available. The guy knows a lot but their tunes seem conservative as well :/

That's unfortunate! I have spoken with him before, he definitely has the knowledge to tune it. He must be one of those tuners that look down on small frame turbos and refuse to give them the time of day. Oh well, go see Bill and tell him you want a Madmax like setup, that you know the implications, but don't care.

 

I wouldn't include Niki Gower, I spoke to him at R-tech and he pissed all over me and laughed his cock off when I said people were getting more than 350HP from 1.8T hybrids. This was about 7 months ago when the K418T was the most powerful commercial hybrid available. The guy knows a lot but their tunes seem conservative as well :/

That's unfortunate! I have spoken with him before, he definitely has the knowledge to tune it. He must be one of those tuners that look down on small frame turbos and refuse to give them the time of day. Oh well, go see Bill and tell him you want a Madmax like setup, that you know the implications, but don't care.

I may have to do exactly this, as mentioned I plan on using Unicorn Motor Developments as they're only 30 miles away and have very good reviews in the Audi-scene over here but I have a sneaky suspicion that when I mention it should be minimum 380HP capable they will laugh as well.