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TT RS Forged Engine Q&A

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4.2K views 73 replies 8 participants last post by  Time-Traveler  
#1 · (Edited)
Hi All -
Following on from a convo on another thread, where we were discussing this RS;

This main topic was the forged engine and too what spec it had been rebuilt? After making some enquires it turns out that Infinit Performance had rebuilt the DAZA engine with their Stage 1 rebuild kit;

The seller of the vehicle was extremely helpful and sent me a copy of the rebuild Invoice. Notice the second line with what looks like the block being replaced AND it's been supplied FOC, so that raises numerous questions as to why?


I did call Infinit and was promptly told "We don't discuss previous owners cars" and then they hung up on me - Excellent customer service right there!

Now the interesting thing with their Stage 1 rebuild kit is they reuse the stock pistons, but replace the con-rods and bearings etc and a few other bits.

Engine pic of the motor, (which needs a damn good clean IMO);


There is an Instagram post of this RS on the Dyno and a brief spec list, along with a vid of it spitting out flames N'all. The seller informs me that there are no receipts for the Tubby or Exhaust, which may or may not be OEM? It does have an Eventuri Induction kit and Metanol Injesction tho.

So I have some question's;
Q1: What would cause the block to need replacing?
I'm assuming overheating from a previous poor tune, ergo the Ali block cracked?

Q2: Are the OEM pistons deemed good enough for 500-600Bhp builds?

Q3: Are aftermarket pistons stronger & more durable and therefore a necessary requirement for a circa 600Bhp plus tune?

Q4: Is 576Bhp acheivable with the stock tubby & exhaust or not?

Q5: Surely to achieve maximum power & torque, reduce lag, lower heat, remove factory restrictions and create a powerful fun safe car to drive, all areas of modification's should be explored, budget allowing of course, such as downpipe, intercooler, induction, cooling etc?

Obviously Infinit have a solid reputation and know there stuff for-sure, I am not here to disrespect them at all, they are without doubt experts in their field and they know heaps more than lil ole me for-sure. But to me things do not add up and it seems me that the engine in this motor is being pushed to its limits, (Or close to the edge) without certain upgrades being fitted? Which would support the mods and help achieve max power at safer cooler running.

Maybe the car was a work_ in_progress for the old owner, but then why spend £10K plus and not finish the job? They may have just run out of funds or moved on to something else - who knows but something is awry! Or perhaps it's my tin foil hat is causing me to miss something here?

Perhaps some more learned & knowledgeable members can shed some light on this topic?

TIA
 
#2 ·
1) the most common (and probable) reason for replacing the engine block is a conrod breakage that cracked the block...
2) yes
3) aftermatket pistons (JE and the like) are surely stronger than OEM ones but I believe they're not a must for 600 bhp... this said, once you decide to rebuild an engine to get maxiumum power&reliability, sounds not a big bargain saving money on core parts like pistons ...
4) stock turbo should be still ok for that amount of power, but again, is a matter of long-term reliability (also depending how the engine is used)
5) for a full DAZA/DNWA engine rebuilt using top quality parts, minimum budget is 20.000 eur
 
#3 ·
I'd say a combo of driving too hard, poor fuelling and previous kill map? :unsure: Contact the seller again and ask what the free engine rebuild is about and what caused the block to crack? The date on the invoice is some years ago now.. The tune did come with a 3 year 40k warranty but that's expired by the looks of it. How many miles has it done since the rebuild? The instagram video wasn't posted until a year later though (2022), that license plate.. 😬 (red flag alert). 🚩
The WMI is gonna help quite a bit with the temps.. So that's a positive for sure. Maybe the owner was content with 500 odd BHP and I mean for the road it's more than fast enough.
It is risky business 2nd hand modded vehicles.. What's the dealer offering? Standard 3 months warranty and does that cover the tune?
 
#4 · (Edited)
The seller is a dealer who said he bought the car privately, as he knew that as it's an enthusiast's car there is a following, as he's sold a few in the past. He was extremely helpful and willing to chat, answer questions and share some receipts via email. But then again it's obviously in his interest to be forthcoming. I said I was looking for a weekend warrior, which I could use for track days and the forged engine appealed to me for the extra reliability. The seller didn't have a Scooby and was totally unaware of the block being replaced until I pointed it out. Only the owner at the time of the rebuild could explain the reason's as too why it needed replacing, but you never know if they speak the absolute truth or not? I just thought it was extremely stange that Infinit supplied it FOC, maybe they damaged the original block whilst rebuilding the engine?

The car has been regulary serviced fisrt by Audi for the first 20K, obviously the first owner, then by some performance car dealers. Infinit themselves have carried out the last 2 services, they offer a mobile service plan, where they come to you - I'm not sure how that works as they are in Glasgow and that's a lot of miles to cover for the mobile mechanic!

The rebuild was done in 08/21 at 38K and it's now covered 59K, so 21K in 2 1/2 years is pretty average mileage or just above, so it's obviously been used as a daily driver. Why the block needed to be replaced is a mystery for-sure, it can only be really put down to abuse or overheating? How strong are the Ali DAZA blocks? Probably not as strong as a cast iron block for-sure.

"😬 (red flag alert). 🚩" Why is that a red flag?

The MOT history looks good, only one failure at 27K due to worn brake pads. No instant red flags on ownership/write off Cat C or N etc
or outstanding finance, but only a full HPi check would illuminate us. I didn't ask about warranty, but probaly only the standard 3 month cover. The instgram post is obviously a revisit one year after the initial rebuild, most likely for a service & tune-up or more mods added? I suspect that this RS has had a Stage 2+ tune from Infinit, judging by the 576 Horses and what we currently know. To get flames out of the tailpipe must mean a freeflow exhaust and big boost or over fueling. So from what we know this would mean that the following upgrades have been added, the current seller couldn't see a receipt for the Stage 2+ tune, but I can't be 100% sure as infinit refused to talk and hung up on me.;

stage 2+
This package includes a rich set of components including the Infinit Performance Motorsport tuning Package.
UNMATCHED HARDWARE ADDITIONS
Infinit Performance Decat Downpipe: Achieve maximum exhaust flow and throttle responsiveness while enjoying an enriched, aggressive sound profile.
Infinit Performance Intercooler: Our state-of-the-art intercooler ensures consistent performance by maintaining optimal thermal efficiency under diverse conditions.
Forge Turbo Elbow & Hard Pipe:These components work synergistically to enhance airflow and turbo efficiency, providing an even more exhilarating driving experience.
Powerflex Dogbone Mount: Our robust dogbone mount adds superior stability and handling characteristics to your RS3/TTRS/RSQ3.
AEM Water/Methanol Injection Kit: This advanced injection system further optimises combustion, unlocking additional horsepower and torque.
The Infinit Performance stage 2+ package will see performance gains of up to:
DAZA ≈ 560hp & 660nm
 
#5 · (Edited)
The DAZA engines are good but from my experience they haven't been as bulletproof as the 2.0 ea888 gen3 gen4, probably because people shoot for big numbers and don't pay attention to the details.
I wonder what the current carbon state is? Probably not too bad as the WMI should slow it down.
Ultimately if something went catastrophic it's big bucks to get it back to where it's at, you know this already.

I've been caught out with buying a highly modified golf before, my situation was more desperate though as I rush purchased because I needed wheels. I lost a grand or two on it by trying to upgrade and fix things, in the end I cut my losses and moved it on.
Of course dealers / sellers are going to be super friendly, the agenda is to sell and for maximum profit.

The way I look at buying a 2nd hand car.
Stock = Expect few issues
Modified = Expect increased likelihood of issues.
The red flag for the numberplate was in reference to the illegal spacing, it screams boy racer.
Flames out the exhaust, decat yes.. Know a friendly MOT guy do you? ;)
You mentioned you would want to track it? That's heavy use.. How about an oil cooler and DSG cooler?
That DQ500 has probably had a beating, how many launches have been done? That's one for VAG-COM.

You know what you're looking for with this platform given your current ownership. If you went for a test-drive my advice would be don't get bamboozled by the speed of it, be level headed and do all the right checks.
I'd be there with a paint depth gauge checking every panel after clearing it with the seller just for reassurance. I'd also buy or borrow someone's VAG-COM for checking the number of launches and fault codes after a good drive.

If I'm in the market for an RS I'm buying stock 2018, check number of launches, ideally 1 previous owner and then first sort the handling and brakes especially if track is concerned. Then look at a stage 1 or 2, yes it will cost a lot more but that's the risk averse method.
 
#6 · (Edited)
Interesting comments and sound advise - thanks. I wouldn't buy this car after digging into it's history and I agree with you the car shows clear signs of boy racer ownership for-sure! I asked about the tyres and the seller informed me that it had 4 good tyres, with SC7's on the front and PS 4S's on the rear, so that told me it's been driven hard for-sure. I would be very surprised if it hadn't been on a track or two?

Personally I wouldn't buy from a dealer, as you can learn many things about the current owner and how they've looked after the car or not, just through talking too and meeting them. Funny story I sold a motorbike some years back, one guy called and seemed dead keen, asked a lot of questions but I thought he seemed OK? When he turned up to view it the first thing I noticed wes he was covered in tattoo's AND had fake metal horns attached to his forehead. Which screamed trouble and I knew he would be a right PITA! So I polietly wriggled out of selling the bike too him, by faking it to not start, which put him off big-time! 😁😅😂🤣

So moving on handling for a fast road/track car, ergo suspension and brake mods, what would be your parts wishlist for those upgrades?
 
#7 · (Edited)
No worries, I'm not trying to talk you out of it. Just as long as you're aware of this and that. The hardware is all top notch no doubt, it's just the whole uncertainty surrounding it that's the issue.

I would speculate that more likely than not it hasn't been tracked, those 20" wheels and low profiles aren't the best for track. It looks like a fast road build, who knows for sure though?

Yes selling can be a right PITA.. I try not to judge a book by it's cover but sometimes your red flag alert will sound off and any doubt best to bail.

Handling for TT : H&R Anti roll bars front and rear (the thickest ones). KW V3 coilovers as a minimum, the clubsports if budget allows.
Wheels and tyres either 'pro track ones' or '2forge zf08's'. 18" ideally but 19's fine.
Brakes: Revo Alcon BBK or AP Racing Rod-Cal 380/390 kit.
If budget allows Wavetrac diff front. £1.5-2k.

Have you not considered tuning the TTS? Or is the appeal of the 5-Banger sound too strong? A well sorted Stage 1++ and Stage 2 TTS should be as quick as a stock RS. (Although not on the Autobahn at top end).
 
#8 · (Edited)
Thanks for the input, I'm just considering my options ATM. Yes the draw of the RS is strong, many more pluses but more coin ultimately, but modding my TTS is also on the table. It's done 82K so a strip down, internal inspection and full rebuild replacing the parts that are worn would most likely be the best path to take for reliability and peace of mind for-sure!

Apart from the engine, exhaust, tubby, induction and ECU what else is different between the RS & TTS mechanical-wise? They share the same Magride suspension do they not?

I've just found this vid which is very illuminating. Skip to 7.20 to avoid the extra waffle unless you have the time. Maybe the engine we're discussing has suffered a similar fate with damaged pistons and bore to the Mk2 RS in the vid?
 
#9 ·
Thanks for the input, I'm just considering my options ATM. Yes the draw of the RS is strong, many more pluses but more coin ultimately, but modding my TTS is also on the table. It's done 82K so a strip down, internal inspection and full rebuild replacing the parts that are worn would most likely be the best path to take for reliability and peace of mind for-sure!

Apart from the engine, exhaust, tubby, induction and ECU what else is different between the RS & TTS mechanical-wise? They share the same Magride suspension do they not?

I've just found this vid which is very illuminating. Skip to 7.20 to avoid extra waffle unless you have the time. Maybe this engine suffered a similar fate with damaged pistons and bore?
No problems bud. It's been said countless times but the RS's sound awesome! A very addictive sound that's miles better than our TTS's especially years 2016-2018 with a sports exhaust. I mean if you can afford one and you want one go for it. There's not too much difference RS vs S in terms of handling if anything the TTS might handle and feel slightly better in the front end as the engine is about 55KG lighter. Pretty much all the TTS come with magride as standard it was an option for the RS I believe. Bigger brakes on the RS and a better gearbox, the rest is very much cosmetic and what optional extras does yours have vs mine Etc..
82k miles on yours? I see.. Ah that's not too bad wouldn't of thought it requires a strip down and rebuild, will depend on it's history. But yeah it's always nice to start fresh again say at 30-40k miles. I'm at 50k miles so engine is nicely broken in ready for some stage 2 :devilish:. An RS was the goal though so I won't go too mad with mods!
RE Performance are awesome, they know their stuff! If I had an R8 I'd be going there for all servicing no doubt about that!
 
#10 ·
Yeah that 5 pot sings like no other for-sure! Pure Rally style - poetry in motion and a super wide grinathon! 😁🏎💨😁🏎💨😁

What are the weak links in the DAZA engine's drivechain?
I'm guessing it's the con-rods?

So if money were no object and you had a newly cleaned EA855 siitting in your workshop, freshly removed from your RS. What would you wishlist look like for the ultimate RS build?

And what would you choose differently if it were a drag car, as opposed to a track car?
 
#11 ·
Yeah that 5 pot sings like no other for-sure! Pure Rally style - poetry in motion and a super wide grinathon! 😁🏎💨😁🏎💨😁

What are the weak links in the DAZA engine's drivechain?
I'm guessing it's the con-rods?

So if money were no object and you had a newly cleaned EA855 siitting in your workshop, freshly removed from your RS. What would you wishlist look like for the ultimate RS build?

And what would you choose differently if it were a drag car, as opposed to a track car?
Yeah that's right rods really, otherwise pretty good!

EA855 ultimate build.. hmmm well the drag car would be totally different to the track car, the gear ratios especially, fully built clutch. Power over 1000, whatever the best one in the USA has produced+1. Haven't got time to research. 😄

Track car way less power and more focused on chassis, weight reduction and aux cooling.

You?
 
#12 ·
I'm still researching and haven't draw up a wish list as of yet. Trolling the web there seems to be more drag racing set-ups with huge power builds and lots of tuners offering 1000Bhp engine builds, all for sub 9 second 1/4 miles. Which for raw power down a strip is fine, but I wanna go fast around corners, so a twisty's slayer is my preference. The chasis set-up you previously stated is pretty much my handling wish list, engine-wise I would imagine a solid tune of maybe circa 600-650Bhp, focussed on running very cool for reliabilty, rather than straight raw power, would be the ultimate goal. I do however like H Performance stuff, maybe a tuned down track focussed version of this awesome DAZA engine would be a great and more importantly 'FUN' race car!

I just need to win the lottery or sell a kidney first;
 
#13 ·
Any damaged block would make the pistons write off as well.

I don't think the borescoring is a thing for them?

Unless they just assemble engines as cheaply as they can salvage parts.

Any tuned engine could potentially fail if any sudden change happened since the limits are pushed to boundaries, as simple as bad fuel or an increase in air temp.
The everyday drive aint like 10min run in dyno.
 
#16 · (Edited)
HPerformance have certainly done a lot of R&D on the EA855 platform for-sure. They are like the EU counterpart to IROZ , both of whom are pushing the DAZA/DNWA engines to new heights of power & performance. Their parts look top-notch, not cheap but as with everything in llife - You only get what you pay for! Just check out their product line, those 4" exhausts look Bitchin' for-sure;
😁😉😁🏎💨🏎💨😁
 
#23 · (Edited)
Apart from the wheels that RS looks pretty much stock, so there's plenty of scope for burn-outs and donuts at Asda or Sainsburys car park's for-sure! 😁😉😁😉😎🚗💨🚗💨🚗💨😅😂🤣

2.2S 0-62, 2.74s 100-200Kph, some serious coin and work has gone into that bad-boy!

I'm not sure about the 15" wheels tho, the brakes must be tiny and what's the stopping power like I wonder?
 
#25 ·
I agree but still, ALL cars have to stop at some point and with Track or Drag cars that's more important due to the high speeds they reach. Hence why mega-powerful drag strip cars have parachutes to provide the stopping power over smaller brakes from the smaller diameter wheels.
 
#27 · (Edited)
Any modified car is no longer a 'Production car', as it's been changed from how it left the factory and from what/how the designers originally intended it to drive/behave. But yeah I do get where you are going for-sure, as most race cars had/have humble beginnings as a 'Production car', when it first left the factory.

Indeed you yourself own/drive a modified car and I bet you have done many launches and/or track days in your RS amongst other cars you have owned? So I have to ask - are you a 'Standard Production car' owner/driver or a part-time 'Drag Strip/Track Racer in a Modified Non-production car'? 😉😉😅😂🤣