You need to answer your own question first, how far do you want to go?

These old TT are knocking on a bit now but that doesn't necessarily mean their going implode at the mire thought of a tune up. If looked after they are still very reliable and capable, and if your not looking for big HP numbers a health 225 should easily reach 250bhp from a custom re-map alone.

 

From what ive researched i believe Larger 80mm TIP, 3" Downpipe, FMIC & WAK airbox mod or conefilter should get you to 260-275hp with a good remap

 

If you remapped a stock car or add modifications and remap first few things to highlight....

1. All the common stock issues like breather pipes that could be leaking , aged components and most importantly an aged clutch can be happy at 210 ftlbs but show its age when you try 260ftlbs....

2. so be aware of reviewing things and the potential that a remap alone may highlight further expenses to consider. Ideally a review and log the car to just check the basics and that it is behaving as a stock 225.

3. If you embark on tuning mods then , it is best to do them first and then get a good mapping review but this can skew results against the stock map hence good to review the car before mods, review with the mods to check the baseline is "as expected" 225 plus mods.... Then go for custom mapping against the mods.

Either way it can get expensive if the common issues to upgrade are still to be done and if the clutch wear is unknown.

If you are completely stock and want to get the best improvement with minimal cost and best value....
1. Stock review. check its healthy
2. Get breather pipes upgraded if they are still standard.
3. leak test and mapping on the car as is.
4. Clutch may still need replacing. ( plus £700-900)
(Circa £300-600 without clutch) to get this far.... and be at 255-265 bhp

If you go the 3" DP/ 3" TIP / Induction / FMIC Route..... the same clutch risk is there although torque spike is less with these mods hence slightly less clutch risk.... but you will have spent around £2000 more for a longer Torque band and be in the 260-280 bhp range ( and may need to consider injectors)

Typically mapping on a stock car has higher but shorter Torque spike over a heavily modified where the torque is less but lasts for a longer part of the rev range.

The Cost vs Value vs overall enjoyment vs your willingness to invest in your 2001 car is what you have to think about.

 

If you remapped a stock car or add modifications and remap first few things to highlight....

1. All the common stock issues like breather pipes that could be leaking , aged components and most importantly an aged clutch can be happy at 210 ftlbs but show its age when you try 260ftlbs....

2. so be aware of reviewing things and the potential that a remap alone may highlight further expenses to consider. Ideally a review and log the car to just check the basics and that it is behaving as a stock 225.

3. If you embark on tuning mods then , it is best to do them first and then get a good mapping review but this can skew results against the stock map hence good to review the car before mods, review with the mods to check the baseline is "as expected" 225 plus mods.... Then go for custom mapping against the mods.

Either way it can get expensive if the common issues to upgrade are still to be done and if the clutch wear is unknown.

If you are completely stock and want to get the best improvement with minimal cost and best value....
1. Stock review. check its healthy
2. Get breather pipes upgraded if they are still standard.
3. leak test and mapping on the car as is.
4. Clutch may still need replacing. ( plus £700-900)
(Circa £300-600 without clutch) to get this far.... and be at 255-265 bhp

If you go the 3" DP/ 3" TIP / Induction / FMIC Route..... the same clutch risk is there although torque spike is less with these mods hence slightly less clutch risk.... but you will have spent around £2000 more for a longer Torque band and be in the 260-280 bhp range ( and may need to consider injectors)

Typically mapping on a stock car has higher but shorter Torque spike over a heavily modified where the torque is less but lasts for a longer part of the rev range.

The Cost vs Value vs overall enjoyment vs your willingness to invest in your 2001 car is what you have to think about.

Hi Wak

Im currently working on a resurection project.

Ive done the clutch, downpipe with de cat, catchcan, new silicone boost pipes, FMIC, airbox mod. What injectors would you recommend?
Im not looking for crazy HP yet.... and would prefer not to have to do forged engine work until needed. Is 280hp reachable and safe on standard internals?

 

How much roughly is a WAK map?

 

Email me car and mod details it's dependant on your setup.

As for injectors Bosch 550s are a sensible upgrade or Seimens Deka 630s specially if you may explore bigger turbos later.

 

Go big or go home...
That's ~£8-12k - be a 'scardy cat' and do brakes first!

Lol the cars old already you'll have that fun pushing it to the limit, if it breaks there are only £1800 to buy another.

 

Lol the cars old already you'll have that fun pushing it to the limit, if it breaks there are only £1800 to buy another.

The way I think Stu, if it goes pop tomorrow I'll just go and buy another one! :lol:

 

Amen... although no-one wants to break-down at the side of the road. But car modification is essentially 'Chasing The Dragon' and these 1.8T starting points are perfect.

 

Thank you for replies!

Go big or go home...
That's ~£8-12k - be a 'scardy cat' and do brakes first!

Lol the cars old already you'll have that fun pushing it to the limit, if it breaks there are only £1800 to buy another.

I like the idea of either go big or go home but i prefer to go... somewhere in the middle
I agree with you, first mod -if go that way- will be big brakes.
Apparently such cars in Greece still maintain a price of 7-8k EYR (ie 6-7k GBP) and i don't want to waste such an amount.

The stock turbo works at 1 bar pressure.
1) If i remap Stage 1, what will be the effect on bar pressure?
2) If i remap Stage 2, what will be the effect on bar pressure?
3) The higher the pressure, the higher the stress of the engine i guess, so at what bar levels should be considered an engine rebuilt with rods/pistons/head etc?

If you go the 3" DP/ 3" TIP / Induction / FMIC Route..... the same clutch risk is there although torque spike is less with these mods hence slightly less clutch risk.... but you will have spent around £2000 more for a longer Torque band and be in the 260-280 bhp range ( and may need to consider injectors)

3) If i go the 3'' downpipe way, since this mod goes 'after' the engine, i'm thinking that engine or turbo is not stressed or at least not as much as it would compared to remap. But still i would like to ask, is the 3'' downpipe going to affect the Bar pressure of turbo? As i understand the downpipe contributes to better flow of gases and turbo spins quicker(?)

So doing a quick summary to decide if it's worth going the mods-way and of course going big as StuartDB's advice

1) Brembo Junior GT about 1500 GBP
2) 3'' downpipe Milltek about 650 GBP https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Milltek-SSXA ... m570.l1313
3) Forge FMIC about 500 GBP I want to be fit below v6 front bumper https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Forge-Front- ... =R40&rt=nc
4) Clutch ... any suggestion?
5) remap ... i didn't know WAK has a remap, will PM.
6 onwards) feel free to suggest

EDIT: I think I'm wrong on number 3. Forge FMIC does not fit without some trimming. So which intercooler would you suggest? Also, what about an upgrade of SMIC ? such as this one http://www.tyrolsport.com/tt-smic-detail
Also found this one, says fits with OEM bumper but "does not fit with the factory headlamp cleaning system if equipped"
http://www.wagner-tuning.uk/200001003.html

 

Cheaper down pipes than 650. I got one off Amazon for 150 approx delivered and it fits perfectly..
Stainless pipe is stainless pipe in the end of the day.

Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk

 

Here's my going big, probably makes absolutely zero difference but my diy 3" charge pipe to replace the factory one

My intercooler has 3" ends so why not keep it 3" all the way lol

Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk

 

Here's my going big, probably makes absolutely zero difference but my diy 3" charge pipe to replace the factory one

My intercooler has 3" ends so why not keep it 3" all the way lol

The larger the area the turbo has to fill = introducing lag

 

Here's my going big, probably makes absolutely zero difference but my diy 3" charge pipe to replace the factory one

My intercooler has 3" ends so why not keep it 3" all the way lol

The larger the area the turbo has to fill = introducing lag

So a larger intercooler does the same??

My thinking was larger TIP -80mm why not a larger charge pipe??

Also if down the road I decide to go for a turbo upgrade this would help?

I'm a novice so any advice is appreciated

Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk

 

but you will have spent around £2000 more for a longer Torque band and be in the 260-280 bhp range ( and may need to consider injectors)

How do i know when its time for bigger injectors?

 

Injector opening time in ms vs rpm to give duty cycle in %

http://www.stealth316.com/2-calc-idc.htm

 

where does a weak fuel pump fit in with looking at injector duty cycles? will a car just lose power with a weak pump or will the injector duty cycles max out first?

 

where does a weak fuel pump fit in with looking at injector duty cycles? will a car just lose power with a weak pump or will the injector duty cycles max out first?

IDC will start to max out as the ecu keeps adjusting to try to meet target.

After maxing out and if demand can't be met then actual starts to head leaner than expected

Ignition retards could start to get more aggressive for longer

Some symptoms may be more gradual feeling it's not smooth other symptoms may be more immediate, feeling if hesitancy dependant on severity and what ecu protection may kick in.

I'd say you may get a Eml for fuel trims but in my experience that's much later than the symptoms of the weak pump that have been pissing you off for some time

 

Clever cars aren't they, so for injectors and n75 the operation times are based on other sensor readings all potentially adjusted 50 times a second. God knows what the cars are doing now 18 years later.

if someone has changed the fuel pump regulator for a 3.5 or 4 bar, will that affect injector cycles? I believe they used to be a fashionable DIY mod but from discussions on ASN don't really improve anything as the stock fuel pump is only 4 bar.

 

i've seen this Scorpion downpipe and sports cat.
Do you think it's a good idea to fit a 3" DP to 2.5" OEM catback? or better wait for some more money to fit 3 DP and 3 catback all in once?

Thanks