Nice! How did you wire in the wireless charging usb line? My TT only has a AuX input.

 

Not sure if it's appropriate to bump this thread but I'm just looking at Head Units now to replace the Audi Navigation Plus system in my car; I have a few questions if that's okay?

• Does the car have a microphone located anywhere or is it built into the unit? I'm assuming I'd need a new microphone if I bought a Head Unit
• Is a car stereo fitting kit always necessary or can I just get away with a fascia plate (if I were installing a Sony unit for example?)
• My car has a usb dongle inside the glove box connected to the AMI port but it doesn't seem to do anything (doesn't even give power to my phone); is that working as intended? What is it for?

Thank you

 

* there's a BT mic fitted in the dome light assembly, which connects to the factory BT module. You can't reuse it for an aftermarket unit. Some come with front mics, almost all support a 2.5/3.5mm external mic. I ran mine up to the dome light assembly and installed in place of the factory mic.

* a fitting kit is needed for any generic, double-din HU you install. HUs specifically made for the mk2 TT, like the popular Android-based ones (which I use/recommend) do not require one.

* the AMI port in the glove box connects to the stock HU and can interface with an Apple phone (or compatible interface BT module) or be used for Aux in. It doesn't function as a USB port. It can't be used with an aftermarket HU.

 

To make it totally clear for you, if you opt for a generic double Din HU from one of the major manufacturers, you also need a full fitting kit. In the UK "Connects 2" are the go to supplier. The kits differ depending on whether or not your car has a multi-function steering wheel (MFSW).

The kit will include a facia surround, a facia frame, a metal cage and fittings (the cage that comes with the HU will not fit) an adaptor loom (including a MFSW interface box if appropriate) and a universal cable to connect the interface box with the new HU.

If your car has the factory phone Bluetooth option, there will be a microphone behind the light panel above the mirror. That microphone is electrically compatible with a new HU but to use it you would need to disconnect it and fit a 3.5mm plug to the end of its cable. Most people don't bother and just fit a new mic in the same position.

 

To make it totally clear for you, if you opt for a generic double Din HU from one of the major manufacturers, you also need a full fitting kit. In the UK "Connects 2" are the go to supplier. The kits differ depending on whether or not your car has a multi-function steering wheel (MFSW).

The kit will include a facia surround, a facia frame, a metal cage and fittings (the cage that comes with the HU will not fit) an adaptor loom (including a MFSW interface box if appropriate) and a universal cable to connect the interface box with the new HU.

If your car has the factory phone Bluetooth option, there will be a microphone behind the light panel above the mirror. That microphone is electrically compatible with a new HU but to use it you would need to disconnect it and fit a 3.5mm plug to the end of its cable. Most people don't bother and just fit a new mic in the same position.

Thank you for the reply. I've been messing about a bit so here are some ramblings.

First, regarding the AMI port in my car: I am genuinely perplexed at what the hell this port does. My car came with an AMI / USB connector but it does nothing to the extent I'm not even sure it works. My phone doesn't acknowledge its connected to anything when I plug in so that's the only conclusion I can make.

So I bought this bluetooth adapter from Amazon to see if that would work and again, it does nothing. The car at least acknowledged there was an External Media Device connected, but the LED never powered on and my phone couldn't see it (so I assumed it wasn't getting any power).

I've seen some historic posts on here discussing a similar device called Tune2Air but for £90-100 there's no point.

So in the end, I think I'm going to do as you, a generic double DIN unit, and the fitting kit. Halfords seem to sell both, and with Motor Club discount of 5%, and an introductory discount of £10, it seems like a fairly economical solution.

So I think I'm going to opt for:

• Sony XAV-AX3250
• Audi TT 2006-2014 Installation Kit

Re: Aliexpress Head Units - I'm very tempted, but to be honest, the main function I want is Android Auto. I don't need all these features and I like that the Sony unit has physical buttons. As long as I can use Android Auto and set my background to an anime girl wallpaper I think I'm content.

Suppose my last question is the plan of attack for routing the microphone cable, aux and USB. Perhaps something like this (pretend it's RHD):

 

Even with the discounts, I'd amazed if you can't get the fitting kit and HU cheaper than at Halfords. The fitting kits used to be c£75 but I guess, like everything else, they have now gone up.

Yes, that is the routing of the mic cable. Behind the headliner, behind the A pillar trim and behind the dash to the back of the HU. Like all Audi trim, removing the A pillar trim seems to take more force than it should, but is strong enough to take it. You can route the cable to the left or right, it makes no difference. Routeing to the left may be slightly easier as you can take out the glove box to see where the cable is going.

 

Looks like I can get the kit from here though Dynamic Sounds seem to offer several different conversion kits and I'm not 100% sure which one I should be opting for.

Definitely will gut the AMI unit out like you suggested though; seems like a great idea.

 

The routeing of the USB cable depends on where you want to locate the socket. As your AMI unit will be redundant with the new HU, you could remove it and do what I did. Audi will sell you a single DIN cubby (8P0035113) to replace it or any generic (cheaper!) one will fit. A hole can then be cut in the back an a USB socket installed.

 

Apologies, I think I have one last question. What reversing camera have you all opted for recently? The best I seem to be able to identify is this one:

Anyone bought this? (Apologies if this isn't the thread to ask questions such as this).

 

I have an older model of this offset design - still functions well after 5 years but now glued in as one of the lugs broke - I did not replace as was listed for near £100 - but for £17 will try this one too

 

Adding my brief review of the Alpine ILX-705d unit and rear camera I’ve used which may help. Have mentioned this review in other threads too for context:

—————

I personally have the Alpine ILX-705d which features wireless CarPlay and wired Android Auto. I also have a ‘wedge’ reverse camera installed. I can’t recommend it enough giving you the latest navigation technology such as Waze, Google Maps or Apple Maps if you’re using CarPlay. It has many modern features such as a high definition 720p screen, HDMI input in case you want to use an Amazon Fire Stick or similar, DAB compatible (I use a windscreen mounted aerial), Physical Buttons which I prefer to capacitive, ability to install an Alpine dash cam which you can control from the headunit etc. It also gives you some very advanced audio controls such as time correction / alignment, frequency cut off points, ability to stream high definition audio files through TIDAL etc. (beyond my technical ability!) Boot-up time is quick and is fairly reactive to use.

I also have an Alpine powered subwoofer fitted in the rear which gives it the oomph it needs so I can turn down the bass in the other speakers. The unit has a ‘sub-out’ output meaning you can control the subwoofer levels directly from the head unit. I’m really happy with the quality of the sound using the standard non-Bose setup. It’s not going to win any audio competitions but a vast improvement using the standard speakers.

I was concerned it would look very foreign installed in my TT and scream aftermarket. However if you choose the ‘sporty red’ theme on the interface menu, the red is very in-keeping with the interior - even the white buttons look OK once turned down with the blue centre button. All my steering wheel controls are compatible with the unit when using the correct adapter.

See YouTube video below of the same unit and reverse camera fitted to a MK2 TT for reference: (this isn't my TT)

Audi MK2 TT Fitted with Alpine ILX-705d & Reverse Camera

I could never go back to the basic concert stereo Audi unit again. If you have the funds I’d recommend an upgrade if you’re looking for the latest technology. I’ve never had an RNS-E so I can’t comment on the comparison.

Hope it helps and gives you another option to consider. 👍🏼

 

Audi MK2 TT Fitted with Alpine ILX-705d & Reverse Camera

disappointing camera install I have to say, a good 25% of the view is obscured by the bumper and the trunk lid lip, and the angle is pointed too far downwards. They really should have mounted it a bit more forward (it can be done, even with the crease line there), and used a small plastic wedge to change the angle. Would have also been fun to see them drill into the trunk =D

 

This is the one I used for the Reverse Camera Installation write up and after 8-years, it's still working okay. It's a direct swap for the OEM left license plate light assembly and even takes the OEM bulb.

t's still available on various site if you Google search "Audi TT reverse camera". A quick search found that it's currently being offered here for €49 and at this site for £68.60. It's often listed for the Audi A1, A4L and Q5.

 

@SwissJetPilot seems like a solid option for older models with halogen bulbs, but there's no equivalent for the LED license plate lights that I've found.

The ones which use a smaller LED bulb and camera with same foot print as stock bulb don't work as the camera is too recessed and the trunk lip obscures 40% of the lens

 

@SwissJetPilot seems like a solid option for older models with halogen bulbs, but there's no equivalent for the LED license plate lights that I've found.

The ones which use a smaller LED bulb and camera with same foot print as stock bulb don't work as the camera is too recessed and the trunk lip obscures 40% of the lens

TBH I never saw that much of a point in having a reverse camera in such a small vehicle like the TT anyway. Sure it's a "cool" feature but it's really unnecessary--I mean at least for ppl that have been driving for many years before reverse cameras (and the other 10 cameras cars have these days) were even a thing to be heard of or depended upon

The rear camera shown in the video above is basically just good for knowing exactly where your bumper is, but then the commonly-equipped rear park-assist (sonar) does just that well enough. (One can also enable OPS if they have an RNS-E.) That view of the aftermarket one is not great but rear cameras are not exactly a method for sightseeing in any event. Personally I don't much make use of them even in cars that have them from the factory. I never felt the need for a reversing camera in the TT and I reverse park it into a garage everyday, going around another car I have further up the driveway (in front of that garage door) at current time. Heck, I had to put my buddy's big ass Lexus sedan in my garage the same way last week and it has the mentioned umpteen cameras and this bird's eye business and all that but the only thing I paid attention to was the beeping lol.

I do have an aftermarket camera (a plate light one) in the A3 but really just put it in there "just because" as I don't need it there either; but that car it's still more useful than the TT since it doesn't have the rear park assist option on it.

If you can't find a reverse camera to your liking, it wouldn't really be so bad forgetting about it altogether. But that's just my $0.02!

 

@ Matt Devo - If you have access to a 3D printer, you can print this camera base, add your own camera and bond it to either the OEM or LED license plate light assembly. Here's a link for this prototype camera base I made a few years ago. The datafile is included to download .

 

I have LED lights on my car so I think I'll take you up on the 3D printed camera base suggestion. Just ordered a Sony XAV-AX3250, the fitting kit (hoping this is the right one for my BOSE system), a glove box compartment (couldn't find cheaper), and a threaded USB port for said compartment.

I'll try and document everything when I fit it and give a review. Very exciting.

 

@ Phalanx - If you (or anyone else) prints one, please add your experiences to the 3D Printing Projects post so we can keep that information in a common location rather than scattering it about. Cheers!

 

Of course we all know what we really need- thanks to @MT-V6 you can also see a pair of nice LED number plate lights in his picture
I have one of these but need to find the rear bracket - (and a couple of days of my life) - it also gives you an electric boot release!

Retrofit: Reversing Camera with OPS

Following from my previous retrofit of front and rear parking sensors with OPS I have now got the full R8 system functioning, which includes a reversing camera with moving guidelines as well as reverse parking and parallel parking modes. Initial test fit with messy wires resulting in poor image...

www.ttforum.co.uk

 

So I got my kit and I can't even remove the current Navigation plus unit to the extent I'm feeling stupid.

The tools slide in but there's no click or anything which makes me wonder if I've damaged the mechanism.

Is it possible to just brute force it out with some pry tools or something?

[edit] More elbow grease was required it seems

 

Sorry for the double post. So I've been hooking the Sony Head Unit up and I haven't got the correct connector for the amp line.
Here's the Fitting Kit amp line:

and it needs to connect to the blue and white on this sony harnass:

So what do I need to buy to connect these two? Thank you

 

 

It looks like you have not got the correct adaptor loom.

 

The adaptor loom seems to be fine apart from the amplifier cable and from looking at all the different listings, they all seem to be the same. I've ordered a soldering iron in the end because the parking cable and reverse cable don't even have connectors on them so I'll have to strip those anyway. So I guess I can also solder the amplifier cables together.

Definitely not as quick a job as I thought it was going to be

Perhaps these connectors will be sufficient

 

complete overkill, just use a heatshrink+solder connector like these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RDPBXGN
no need for a soldering iron, just wire strippers and some heat

 

Ah I think I also need to connect the blue wire from the antenna cable to the blue cable from the head unit. Or is there any alternative? It looks like with my head unit, I'd need to solder both the REM out and antenna to the same cable.

So it's a little non-trivial to say the least.

 

Ah I think I also need to connect the blue wire from the antenna cable to the blue cable from the head unit. Or is there any alternative? It looks like with my head unit, I'd need to solder both the REM out and antenna to the same cable.

I think you're over-complicating this. The HU almost certainly has outputs for both amplifier turn on and antenna power. Amp turn on connects to the same pin in the factory plug, antenna power connects to the blue wire from the antenna adapter.

 

Hmm, so I've connected everything up including my new amplifier power on connection and I can't get any sound. I've tested the connections with my multimeter and they seem fine but no power. The other connections I fitted work fine (reverse and parking brake). Is there something I specifically need to do because the car comes with the Bose amplifier?

Could the issue be that I still have the AMI MMI installed still?

 

Is there something I specifically need to do because the car comes with the Bose amplifier?

HU RCA outputs, front/rear, need to connect to the amp inputs on the black factory plug (the one with 3 sub-plugs). Bose vs non isn't relevant, only the fact that the HU doesn't power the speakers itself (it it did, the brown 8-pin connector would be used).

Could the issue be that I still have the AMI MMI installed still?

completely irrelevant

 

Thanks again for the reply Matt. It looks like from this discussion it could be due to the amp not receiving the power on signal. I'll see if there's someone local that can have a look at that for me.

(Though I'll triple check the connections one more time)

Ordered this for tomorrow so we'll see if I have any luck.

 

Thanks again for the reply Matt. It looks like from this discussion it could be due to the amp not receiving the power on signal. I'll see if there's someone local that can have a look at that for me.

the blue/white->red->blue wire ("hacked up rem out" connected to the quadlock adapter (pin D13) is what turns on the amp. Use a multimeter to verify it's showing +12v

Ordered this for tomorrow so we'll see if I have any luck.

OBD isn't going on help here I'm afraid

 

Apologies for turning this thread into my own personal blog, I've got the head unit up and running with sound now. DynamicSounds (great tech support) sent me the digital Connects2 interface and that solved the issue. I routed the USB and microphone through to the glove box which worked nicely and the only thing I need to do now is figure out how to get the microphone working (AA seems to be using my phone instead of the headunit microphone). it was working all along!

 

Do you have a picture of it how it looks now?

 

I just installed the Pioneer DMH 2000NEX with the Datalink simple harness and steering wheel controls in my 2014 MK2 with Bose, replacing the Nav Plus unit. The unit is great and a proper EQ makes a world of difference since the Bose system is good but kind of lacks personality. Also added the Audi rings load screen for an OEM look. Extra bonus, it saves 5lbs/2.26kg over stock.

Couple quirks for my DIY install...

• The OBDII connection is not tidy, since I couldn't be bothered to remove the lower dash trim to snake the cable through. So it's just electrical taped to the bottom out of sight.
• The microphone is wired to the driver side of the dash. Again, because I couldn't snake it through the dash and up the side pillar. It's a pretty stealth install, but TBD on sound quality until I make a call from the freeway.
• The USB cable comes out above AC controls. Again, because I couldn't be bothered to remove the center tunnel. My original plan was to snake the cable up through the tray behind the cupholders for a super clean install, but that wasn't possible even with a cable grabber. I really hate the cable coming out of the dash though, so I might eventually get around to this. Alternatively, I might dremel out the whole ashtray and cig lighter assembly and 3D print a container that I can drop my iPhone 16 into. Does anyone have suggestions?