[TT-driver]

That's a torx for getting the head lights out, not an Allen key, or am I mistaken?

 

[sykosyksi]

Could anyone shed any light on my situation please if possible? I was in the same boat as you guys, a bit of wind noise and movement at the top of the window. Tried to adjust the window by turning the front adjuster a few times and now the window won't work. Left it 10 mins and it's gone back up but now wont go down again :/ any ideas? It's the drivers window. Cheers.

 

[patton]

Could anyone shed any light on my situation please if possible? I was in the same boat as you guys, a bit of wind noise and movement at the top of the window. Tried to adjust the window by turning the front adjuster a few times and now the window won't work. Left it 10 mins and it's gone back up but now wont go down again :/ any ideas? It's the drivers window. Cheers.

i haven't done mine yet but id imagine that its now to tight and the motor doesn't have the power to bring it down, try adjusting it back to where it was and see if it works. hope i have been of some help

 

[Phlukanad]

Just reviving this thread. Could anyone say that in their experience adjusting either of these has fixed their loose glass problem or whether that is more likely to be the loose bolts thing and therefore door card off? Tx.

 

[neilneil2000]

Fixed it for me and two others

 

[83kY]

Is there a precise procedure when changing the window lifter, how to adjust every one of the adjusters and in which order.

The thing is, when I bought my car it had a wind noise and I was thinking it would need an adjustment (the one talked about in this thread). I was going to do it one time and brought the window down to reach the adjusters. The window lifter started crunching and making sounds like the wires are about to snap so I quickly brought the window back and and decided to leave it until I have a new one.

But today I decided to have a look and what did I found.. There was a brand new lifter fitted, new OEM part with manufacturing date 16.08.2016. So the previous owner either tried to fit it or have someone else do it who didn't know what he was doing.

The wedge part from the front rail was inside the door, also both of the bolts which clamp the window to the rails were loose and also the 13mm nuts on the back rail were only hand tight. No wonder that the window was clunking a bit.. :lol: and the lifter crunching like it is going to die any moment.

I fitted the wedge to the front rail and came up with a setting somewhere in the middle of it's "range". Then I adjusted the back rails, loosened the 13mm and used a T25 bit to adjust the "bolts" - they were way off. Had to counterhold with a socket held with locking pliers to get them tight. You know what I am talking about if you "have been there". I got the back of the window quite flush comparing to the small window on the rear quarter panel. The window moves down and up now easily and without any extra noises. Went for a test drive, quite good but still a little wind noise (barely noticeable) so I will do the upwards adjustment tomorrow which was talked about around here.

So like I asked in the beginning - is there a right way/order to get all the adjustments right? Because only the front lower fixing point of the window lifter does not have an adjustment. All the other 3 affect the sideways tilting of the window and they can be quite hard to get right if you have to start from point zero like I did. And then there is also the upwards adjustment so 5 in total :mrgreen:

 

[TT-driver]

The manual doesn't mention a specific order in which the adjustment would have to take place.
But in order to be able to follow the official adjustment guidelines, a special template is required:

Tool T40038/7.

Not having this tool this is what I'd advise to do (talking from experience)

1) Compare the door window with the small window. Both should be flush from bottom to top. This helps getting the inward tilting right at the back of the door window. Compare for the distance to the rear window at the other side if that one hasn't been touched yet. The gap between the door window and the small window should be the same, bottom to top.

2) The distance between the black metal roof trim strip and the window (like how far that metal strip sticks out) should be the same at 2 measurement points: 10cm before the end of the window and there where the windscreen meets the roof. That should help getting your tilting right at the front end.

3) I'd end with setting the height of the window. Rule of thumb: a bank note should have a healthy resistance all the way from the little black triangle to the upper corner when the door is closed. If the resistance at the lower end of the A pillar is not enough, the window should move forwards, not upwards.

Take your time to get things right. With that tool adjustments have around 1 mm tolerance.

Almost needless to say: the door itself should have the correct gaps before you'd start adjusting the window. It should not stick out more than 1 mm compared to the rear wing. The body line on the rear wing and the door should be in 1 line. If this all is not the case, then adjust the striker plate of the door lock first.

Yeah.... it's not easy building a straight Audi....

 

[Vanu]

how do you adjust the door itself, only by the plate or?

 

[83kY]

The manual doesn't mention a specific order in which the adjustment would have to take place.
But in order to be able to follow the official adjustment guidelines, a special template is required:

Tool T40038/7.

Not having this tool this is what I'd advise to do (talking from experience)

1) Compare the door window with the small window. Both should be flush from bottom to top. This helps getting the inward tilting right at the back of the door window. Compare for the distance to the rear window at the other side if that one hasn't been touched yet. The gap between the door window and the small window should be the same, bottom to top.

2) The distance between the black metal roof trim strip and the window (like how far that metal strip sticks out) should be the same at 2 measurement points: 10cm before the end of the window and there where the windscreen meets the roof. That should help getting your tilting right at the front end.

3) I'd end with setting the height of the window. Rule of thumb: a bank note should have a healthy resistance all the way from the little black triangle to the upper corner when the door is closed. If the resistance at the lower end of the A pillar is not enough, the window should move forwards, not upwards.

Take your time to get things right. With that tool adjustments have around 1 mm tolerance.

Almost needless to say: the door itself should have the correct gaps before you'd start adjusting the window. It should not stick out more than 1 mm compared to the rear wing. The body line on the rear wing and the door should be in 1 line. If this all is not the case, then adjust the striker plate of the door lock first.

Yeah.... it's not easy building a straight Audi....

Thanks, I did take my time when doing it and getting the backside of the window flush with the small side window was one thing I did. I also compared everything to the drivers side window. After going through all that I just had a feeling that did I do it right, hence the question I did. But the window worked smoothly and only heard a tiny amount of wind noise from it, mainly because the upwards adjustment isn't done yet.

 

[TT-driver]

It seems you've done the right thing then

 

[83kY]

It seems you've done the right thing then

I kinda have to because I do this kind of stuff for a living :lol: I run my own shop.

 

[TT-driver]

:lol:

So do I. However not on a commercial/professional basis. Just for family members.
And every now and then I try to post something sensible on the forum here.

 

[peteholloway]

Thanks for the useful info posted here... I decided to adjust my '08 TT passenger window last night, as when I bought the car the previous owner mumbled something about replacing the window regulator when I commented on the wind noise at 120kmph. I could actually see the top edge of the glass when the window was closed, it clearly needed adjusting.

After much frustrated fiddling with the 5mm Allen key, I realized that the window had to move forward slightly, as the curve of the roof and the curve of the glass didn't quite match. As I started removing the door card it was quickly obvious that this had been done before... broken clips, broken speaker cover, missing torx screw... [smiley=bigcry.gif]

After getting the necessary bits out of the way, I loosened the 2 torx bolts clamping the glass and after some minor adjusting, the window now works perfectly again

Before the adjustments, the window only went up a few mm when closing the door, now it goes up significantly more, about 10mm, like the drivers door.

Scary stuff, buying a 10 year old car, but so good to have access to this forum to sort out the niggles.

 

[Miboc]

If you shine a torch into the hole you will see the adjustment screw, more or less straight up iirc, the window needs to be fully down to access the adjustment screw

I've spent the last half an hour trying to find this adjustment screw and it's doing my head in now!
Window's down, shone a torch up there and can't see anything. 12" long 5mm allen key not finding anything to turn. I've looked at photos, tried everything!!

Help!!

 

[qooqiiu]

Read the above post. Maybe you're has been done before and with a patent part that doesn't have the adjustment screws?

Like above. You can get the window aligned using the glass bolts behind the door card.

 

[Miboc]

Read the above post. Maybe you're has been done before and with a patent part that doesn't have the adjustment screws?

Like above. You can get the window aligned using the glass bolts behind the door card.

Ok, cheers, it doesn't look good then. I was hoping it was a quick fix without taking the door card off and wrecking anything (which I'm bound to do).

I'll figure out how to get the door card off and see how it goes.

Thanks again.

 

[peteholloway]

The hardest part is probably removing the triangular speaker cover without breaking it. The bottom centre clip is usually the culprit. Be sure to pride it out in the right direction.

 

[andy mac]

If you shine a torch into the hole you will see the adjustment screw, more or less straight up iirc, the window needs to be fully down to access the adjustment screw

I've spent the last half an hour trying to find this adjustment screw and it's doing my head in now!
Window's down, shone a torch up there and can't see anything. 12" long 5mm allen key not finding anything to turn. I've looked at photos, tried everything!!

Help!!

I just tried to adjust my passenger window, you need to angle the hex wrench slightly so that the top of it (where it fits into the bolt) is very slightly further back than the bottom of it.

Excuse the poor picture I just mocked up but it demonstrates what I mean... the view I drew is of the inside of the door with the hex key in the rear bolt.

I found it almost impossible to find until I took off the oddly shaped panel. It takes a bit of force to lever it off but seemed safe enough to do. Once that's out of the way you can see exactly where the wrench is going.

Unfortunately with mine the rear bolt was jammed solid and I didn't fancy trying to force it.

Also worth adding that the drivers side window (on mine at least) has a gap of about 6mm in the "automatically dropped to close" position.
My passenger side one has a gap of more like 20mm

 

[SwissJetPilot]

Window regulator (page 37)
https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... &start=540

Workshop Manual: General Body Repairs, Exterior A005TT00220
FAQ - Audi TT (8J) Workshop Manuals & Repair Groups
https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... &t=1833829

See the arrows, about there is your opening for adjusting the height. You'll find a similar hole further towards the hinges. Both are covered with a rubber cap. Take it off carefully. The black plastic cap (part number 8J0837947, in case you'd break it) right of the arrow covers the screw to adjust the window angle. You can increase or lower the force with which it pushes against the upper seal.

Black arrows: where the cable runs through
Green arrows: clamps that hold the window
Red arrows: stunt team and the height adjusters reachable through the holes when the window is all the way down.

Be smart and take some measurements, see previous page, the picture with all the sticky tape on the window and the body work, before starting to make adjustments. Use a bank note to check whether the window touches the seal firm enough all the way along side the roof when the door is closed.

Edited for attaching new picture locations.
Use a 5mm Allen key that is at least 12cm or so long and that can be used under a slight angle. And use a light to find the adjusters. I adjusted my window the other day and the adjusters are awkwardly located as they're slightly angled, not straight up. Windows have to be fully down too get the Allen key to engage. Then raise the window to check the fit.

Last edited by TT-driver on 20 Mar 2014

 

[steve-x]

The adjuster is next to impossible to find unless you know the orientation, I struggled for ages vertically as shining a torch in the hole was also almost impossible to see anything.

As a result I ended up pulling the door card off, taking the speaker out and all my weather sealing to get to it.

It’s better to have it a few inches up from the bottom or else certain thickness keys and tools will not fit. The angle is not updated, it is like this \ I will post a picture in hope it saves someone having to break and renew a load of clips and go through the same hassle of removing and replacing everything like I just have.