When you say you checked the cam position, (28-29°kw) which measurement block(s) are you looking at...?

 

91 as far as I remember. I checked 90 and 91(on autel so numbers can be different) intake actual and expected were the same(0-1) exhaust expected stayed at zero but actual was between 27-30.

 

What kind of mileage do you have...?

You might want to look through these posts and check your values -

Detecting 3.2L VR6 Chain Stretch with VCDS

Here's how to determine how much chain stretch is present with a VCDS scan. Click here.

www.ttforum.co.uk

FAQ - 3.2 VR6 Camshaft Adjustment Valve (N206 &amp...

This YouTube is the conclusion of a 12-part of a series of Timing Chain Replacement videos for a Golf Mk5. In this video, he demonstrates how to run the Basic Setting test of the N205 and N318 Camshaft Adjustment Valves using a VCDS. I recently had this same discussion with Uwe Ross on the Ross...

www.ttforum.co.uk

 

I've replaced timing chains in August 2022 and I've not done even 10k miles on them, it's sitting at around 95k miles. So I'm sure it's either the solenoid or cam adjuster.
I could run the test for solenoid but I've checked it's resistance and it's at 7.8ohm which I think should be okay electrically. The test is gonna come back with negative results since the cam is not gonna adjust but is there a way to tell if it's cam adjuster or solenoid?

 

Is there a way to tell if it's cam adjuster or solenoid?

I'm sure there is but I'm not sure.

Unless your OBDII device is capable of performing such a test. you'd probably need a VCDS to do it. Either that or have the shop that did the chain work take a look at it. Hopefully the work is warrantied so they should be willing to follow up and get it sorted for you.

Otherwise see who else responds to this post and see what they recommend.

 

I'm sure there is but I'm not sure.

Unless your OBDII device is capable of performing such a test. you'd probably need a VCDS to do it. Either that or have the shop that did the chain work take a look at it. Hopefully the work is warrantied so they should be willing to follow up and get it sorted for you.

Otherwise see who else responds to this post and see what they recommend.

I'm the shop that's done it. I'm doing all repairs on the car myself as well as servicing etc. so far I've had no issues after the timing job I've done and all the readings were always perfect which is how I know it's not the chains themself.

 

I'm the shop that's done it. I'm doing all repairs on the car myself as well as servicing etc.

Oh brilliant. Nice you can do that!!

If there's nothing in the Work Shop Manuals you might check the Ross Tech Forum. You won't be able to post unless you own a VCDS, but you can still look through the posts and see if anyone has discussed this topic.

Another source is Charles the Humble Mechanic. He's done a VR6 rebuild so he may talk about it.

The other guys in the Forum who might know are IPG3.6 and TT'sRevenge. They both have quite a bit of experience with this engine too so feel free to send them a Private Message and point them to this post and ask for their comment.

 

The other guys in the Forum who might know are IPG3.6 and TT'sRevenge. They both have quite a bit of experience with this engine too so feel free to send them a Private Message and point them to this post and ask for their comment.

Minor correction, I have next to no [hands-on] experience with the VR6, lol! I mean I've seen them, driven them, know a bit about the engines, but never really worked on any mechanically TBH. I've got much...much more experience with the 2.0Ts.

But definitely Ian would be a good resource for the VR6! Also 8JVR6 I'd say... But sounds like OP might have pinpointed the problem now anyway.

 

https://forums.ross-tech.com/index.php?threads/31794/

Posting this here as seems to be source for resistance of n318 which in this link states to be 10-18 ohms.
Looks like a need a new solenoid since mine is at 7.8 ohm. I hope this is the correct data as mine seems to be produced before 18 December 2006 and that's when they changed solenoids for different.

 

A little update for those who might have the same problem.
According to parts catalog and audi dealership part number for both of my cam solenoids is 03H906455. Since they're the same parts resistance on them should be the same and it is! I dont see any issues with my intake cam solenoid which has 7.8ohm and i have only issue with with exhaust cam for which solenoid has 7.6ohm. Tiny difference but its safe to say electronically my solenoids are sound.
I ordered new anyway and im going to replace that one anyway. Cam adjuster cost is around 400£, cam solenoid 170£ and while replacing cam solenoid i can check if there is nothing obviously wrong with my timing(timing chains and adjusters) and its significantly smaller job than replacing cam adjusters since i only need to take of intake manifold, rocker cover and top timing cover. I will definitely update here when i get the parts and open up the engine.
I'm also very excited to open it up-When i bought the car engine was full of sludge and carbon deposits, since i've got it i'm doing regular maintenance using liqui moly additives.

 

An update:
Solenoid arrived and appears to be wrong. Found some issues with Audi parts catalogs where Audi points at wrong solenoid for the car.

• Up to 2007 - Part Number for solenoid and plug 03H906455 and 1J0973702A.​

• 2007 and after - Part Number for solenoid and plug 066906455H and 1J0973702.​

Easiest way to tell which one is for your car is to check the plugs. If both are the same you've got the second. Part numbers are also written on the plugs.

In my case Audi dealership and Audi/VW warehouse both checked part numbers in their catalog. Part for plug on mine was 1J0973702A solenoid 066906455H. Solenoid arrived and oopsie, plug doesn't fit. Audi had for my VIN in the catalog plug for upto 2007 and solenoid 2007 onwards. Waiting for a new one and sending this one back. I'm starting to be a bit annoyed at this point as waiting times for parts are way too long!

Edit: forgot to mention that the one I need is 100 quid more expensive.

 

Edit: forgot to mention that the one I need is 100 quid more expensive.

Isn't it always the case? Damn Murphy and his law!

 

To your comment -

When i bought the car engine was full of sludge and carbon deposits

How and where did you see carbon deposits? I was under the impression the 3.2 VR6 being an indirect injection doesn't have nearly the carbon build up issues as our 2.0 TFSI brethren.

Do you have any pictures of the carbon deposits on your valves...?

 

To your comment -



How and where did you see carbon deposits? I was under the impression the 3.2 VR6 being an indirect injection doesn't have nearly the carbon build up issues as our 2.0 TFSI brethren.

Do you have any pictures of the carbon deposits on your valves...?

All the covers were covered in thick layer of gunk that I had to strip down. It's obviously all caused by longlife oil changes which I scrapped and change the oil every 12 months.
Valves were actually looking pretty good and If I compared them with rest of the engine they were like out of the factory. Intake valves were obviously nice and shiny back then as it's indirect injection engine.

Maybe someone used 5w30 full saps engine oil before? And lower flashpoint than 5w40+full saps caused it to get so bad? No idea, I'm just working my way to get this baby running and being in good condition.

 

I'm gonna use that thread instead of creating new.

Does anyone remember how to do adaptations for camshaft solenoid? I remember I've seen it somewhere but I can't mind where.
Maybe there is a full list of adaptations etc somewhere I don't know about? I've only got obdeleven so the descriptions are not the best on it.

 

I've used 5W-20 once by mistake, but changed it shortly after I realized the error of my ways. No harm noted, but like you I don't use long-life oil especially after reading a number of reports that it can result in deposits in the variable cam adjusters which can cause problems long term. When I was commuting, I changed it every six months, but since it's no longer a daily driver, it's back to an annual schedule. IMHO oil is cheap insurance.

I would advise caution about using OBDeleven for any Adaptation, especially if you are using the iOS version.

There have been a number of reports that not all the Adaptations work 100% on OBDeleven. If you are serious about working on your vehicle, I would highly recommend a Ross Tech VCDS. It's far more capable and has a Forum supported by Ross Tech and not a bunch of wanna-be mechanics found in the OBDeleven Forum. The opinions and comments I have seen in their Forum indicate the OPs ignorance and lack of any real-world automotive knowledge.

Keep in Mind, OBDeleven was NOT developed by mechanics, but by a software team in Lithuania. Nothing against them, but I tend to trust people who have actual hands-on mechanical experience and who actually know how a VAG vehicle systems work. Just my two cents.

 

I've used 5W-20 once by mistake, but changed it shortly after I realized the error of my ways. No harm noted, but like you I don't use long-life oil especially after reading a number of reports that it can result in deposits in the variable cam adjusters which can cause problems long term. When I was commuting, I changed it every six months, but since it's no longer a daily driver, it's back to an annual schedule. IMHO oil is cheap insurance.

I would advise caution about using OBDeleven for any Adaptation, especially if you are using the iOS version.

There have been a number of reports that not all the Adaptations work 100% on OBDeleven. If you are serious about working on your vehicle, I would highly recommend a Ross Tech VCDS. It's far more capable and has a Forum supported by Ross Tech and not a bunch of wanna-be mechanics found in the OBDeleven Forum. The opinions and comments I have seen in their Forum indicate the OPs ignorance and lack of any real-world automotive knowledge.

Keep in Mind, OBDeleven was NOT developed by mechanics, but by a software team in Lithuania. Nothing against them, but I tend to trust people who have actual hands-on mechanical experience and who actually know how a VAG vehicle systems work. Just my two cents.

Totally aware of the coding adaptations issues with obdeleven. Although the risk of using basic settings etc is minimal similar to any other diagnostic computer. Only real issue is the coding adaptations if lets say I would want to change the way my spoiler works etc. I don't need that and not gonna pay for their credits to use it.

I'm planning on buying vcds but I want to buy unlimited version right away instead of upgrading it later that's why for now I stick with obdeleven as it's significantly cheaper(and I've got shit loads of different expenses ATM), does the jobs and doesn't really lack anything except support and descriptions.

 

Happy update:

1. Stripped down engine, counted 16 links between marks on camshafts.
2. Removed solenoid and found it mechanically stuck. Tried bathing it in brake cleaner and connected straight to battery, barely moved. Replaced for new.
3. Engine looks so much cleaner since the last time I had it open, barely any sludge, valves are nice and shiny. Cyclone separator seems to not work well as I'm getting quite a bit of oil going to my intake. It's not the worst so I'm gonna ignore it for now.
4. Built back up, some rattles at the begining for bleeding the oil passages, disappeared after 10 minutes of good engine oil temperature.
5. Parameters on idle 90/91 are 0-0.5°kw.
6. Parameters on idle 208/209 are 2 and 0.
7. Road test with live data recording shows camshaft adjusting working fine on both so I'm not even trying to run basic settings for camshaft adjustment. Actual is exactly as specified.

New solenoid resistance was exactly the same as old so as I thought 7.5-8 ohm is what it should be unless you've got both solenoids the same then it should be around 10ohm.

While being there I sorted the issue of leaking coolant with new gasket for thermostat, everything cleaned to perfection and the car works great!

 

When you had the valve cover off, did you pull the cyclone separator and inspect/replace the PCV diaphragm. Good workaround here if you're not keen on pulling it off again.

https://www.ttforum.co.uk/threads/3-2-vr6-bub-pcv-diaphragm-replacement-alternative.1965923/

 

This wouldn't sort my oily issue, the valve itself works fine so I'm not gonna play around with it for now. I've got bigger plans for the car when I move home and have a place to do so. I'm planning on putting it in the garage for a longer time and work on every bit from back to front, rebuild the car fully, get the paint job done and possibly turbo it. Nothing crazy with the turbo but all that is in the future of this car.

Do you know any source for the OEM pvc diaphragm that's inside the valve cover or is it necessary to replace the whole thing?

 

Do you know any source for the OEM pvc diaphragm that's inside the valve cover or is it necessary to replace the whole thing?

As I understand it Audi won't sell the diaphragm inside the COS as spare part. They'll only sell the entire valve cover including the COS. But I suspect the OEM diaphragm inside the COS is probably the same as the one in the Touareg PCV.

There is a non-OEM diaphragm available from RKS Tech in the US. You might want to contact them and see if they have a European distributor.

Or next time you have the valve cover off, remove the PCV diaphragm completely from the COS, block the vent with an M4 screw and just use the Touareg PCV.

RKX VW & Audi 3.6 & 3.2 Engine Valve Cover PCV Valve Diaphragm

Genuine RKX PCV valve replacement diaphragm. Designed to replace broken/ruptured PCV diaphragms on the 3.6L and 3.2L engine without having to replace the entire valve cover!

www.rkxtech.com

Found this one on eBay -

FOR VW PASSAT CC TOUAREG PHAETON 3.2 3.6 ENGINE VALVE COVER DIAPHRAGM MEMBRANE | eBay