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2010 2.0 TFSI - Spoiler Issues Help Please

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7.9K views 21 replies 8 participants last post by  FNChaos  
#1 ·
Hi all.
I read a few posts but cant get my head round what part is faulty.
Ive just bought this car and the spoiler did not work so had a bit of a play with it.
Right the warning light comes on at 78 and then goes out then come on at 50 but spoiler dose not move at all.
It does not work in manual mode either.
The motor is fine as i hooked this up to the battery.
The 2 micro swiches hmm maybe the issue or maybe it is the ccu?
Is there a fuse for the spoiler as i cant find that?
If i put the spoiler half way or up it wont set the light off? Closed switch maybe?
Thanks
 
#3 ·
It does sound like a fuse. Unfortunately the wiring diagram I have (courtesy of SwissJetPilot) does not show which (if any) fuse protects the spolier motor. It lists rather a lot of fuses (mostly single digit numbers) that feed the control unit but doesn't show the internals. The list in the Owner's manual doesn't list the spoiler either. Usually you can test fuses without removing them as there are two holes for meter probes or you could just check them all visually (been there, done that).

If that doesn't find the problem then the best course of action is to get it hooked up to VCDS. Controller no 046 (central convenience system) Measuring blocks 023 will show you the state of both microswitches, the spoiler button and the warning light. This should make diagnosis fairly easy.

Assuming that you don't have VCDS yet and don't want to fork out for one, then there is a sticky that lists people locally who could help. I wouldn't dream of telling you to look on Alibaba for a Chinese copy. If you want to go old school then take the trim off the boot (pull the lock cover plus two screws in the recess) and start poking with a multimeter. I believe that both microswitches are normally open i.e. they close when the spoiler mechanism is at the end of its travel.

Just a cautionary note: the spoiler not being open when it should be is a potentially dangerous situation - the spoiler is not entirely for show.
 
#4 ·
Thats great john i have had a poke about and took the main clip from the motor and im getting no reading on my meter for power to the motor at all even with the button on the center console pressed so even if the to micro swiches are not touching nothing so im a bit lost i think i might have to bite the bullet and get it put on diagnostics and go from there as i cant seem to find the micro swiches for sale and audi want 600 plus for the motor with swiches lol
Rest assured my spoiler is up as i did notice its like driving a jelly when you get over 80 with it down!!
 
#5 ·
Before you go too much further I think there are some simple diagnostics you could do without VCDS.

Sorry if this is grandmother and eggs...

The microswitches do not directly control the current to the motor, they signal to the ECU that the travel limit has been reached and the ECU turns off the motor drive circuit. To the best of my knowledge it works like this. (with the car stationary).
If the closed switch is active, pressing the button causes the motor to drive in the raise direction until the open microswitch closes.
If the open switch is active, pressing the button causes the motor to drive in the lower direction until the closed microswitch closes.
If both microswitches are closed then this must be a fault condition so the ECU drives the spoiler to the open position for a preset time and illuminates the fault lamp.
If neither microswitch is closed then I think it drives the motor in the last known direction until the appropriate microswitch closes.
The other detetable fault condition is taking too long to trip a microswitch. I would think that if the end of travel isn't detected within a given time, the ECU will shut off power to the motor (to stop overheating the motor) and turn the warning light on. Unfortunately this doesn't fit with your symptons so perhaps it isn't that clever and just keeps trying to drive the motor. (you said that if you put the spoiler half way then you don't get a warning light).

You should be abe to check the microswitches by probing on the motor connector. The microswitch wires are brown/blue and green/blue (unfortunately the diagram doesn't say which it which - it calls them 1 & 2 - how stupid!). If you measure resistance between each wire and brown wire then you should see a short when the switch is made. Put the spolier in a mid position and actuate each microswitch with a small screwdriver (You should hear an audible click).

If the microswitches check out and the motor moves if you put 12V on the red/blue & black/blue wires and the motor moves (reverse polarity for the opposite direction of course) then the motor end of things is OK and you problem must be upstream.

Given that you can't make the spoiler move in either direction then it really does sound like a power supply problem. Three possibilities spring to mind.
1) A fuse has blown
2) There is a break in the wiring
3) The power control circuitry in the ECU is faulty

Good luck and let us know what happens.
 
#6 ·
When i bought the car the lady said she had never used the spoiler and i pressed the button and got it to kove slightly maybe half way and that was that,ever since then i havnt heard any noise from the motor.
I can move the spoiler up and down with a live feed straight to the motor both ways.
When it is in the middle i can click the back swictch and the light on dash comes on?

Is there a fuse?? I have took every fuse out it the cockpit and nothing is blown the same as under the bonnet so is there any more hid away?
I have a mate who has vagcom is this what i need to tell me whats what?
My spoiler was allways down and i do belive the failsafe is spoiker up if there is a fault and it looks like this one hasnot been up for a while as very dirty underneith but moves freely just green.
Thanks dave
 
#9 ·
northenlights123 said:
When i bought the car the lady said she had never used the spoiler and i pressed the button and got it to kove slightly maybe half way and that was that,ever since then i havnt heard any noise from the motor.
I can move the spoiler up and down with a live feed straight to the motor both ways.
When it is in the middle i can click the back swictch and the light on dash comes on?

Is there a fuse?? I have took every fuse out it the cockpit and nothing is blown the same as under the bonnet so is there any more hid away?
I have a mate who has vagcom is this what i need to tell me whats what?
My spoiler was allways down and i do belive the failsafe is spoiker up if there is a fault and it looks like this one hasnot been up for a while as very dirty underneith but moves freely just green.
Thanks dave
Sounds like the mechanism was stiff due to lack of use, and put extra strain on the motor that then popped a fuse. Replace the fuse one you find it and lube the mechanism, hopefully that will fix it.
 
#10 ·
northenlights123 said:
John949 said:
I've just found out the fuses for the 'vehicle electronic control system' (which includes the spoiler) are in the boot on the right hand side. You'll need to remove the trim to get at them and it looks like this



Fuses 1,2,7,8 & 10 all power the box.
Top man!! Il have a look today cheers
Sadly no fuse is blown in the back
 
#11 ·
John949 said:
It does sound like a fuse. Unfortunately the wiring diagram I have (courtesy of SwissJetPilot) does not show which (if any) fuse protects the spolier motor. It lists rather a lot of fuses (mostly single digit numbers) that feed the control unit but doesn't show the internals. The list in the Owner's manual doesn't list the spoiler either. Usually you can test fuses without removing them as there are two holes for meter probes or you could just check them all visually (been there, done that).

If that doesn't find the problem then the best course of action is to get it hooked up to VCDS. Controller no 046 (central convenience system) Measuring blocks 023 will show you the state of both microswitches, the spoiler button and the warning light. This should make diagnosis fairly easy.

Assuming that you don't have VCDS yet and don't want to fork out for one, then there is a sticky that lists people locally who could help. I wouldn't dream of telling you to look on Alibaba for a Chinese copy. If you want to go old school then take the trim off the boot (pull the lock cover plus two screws in the recess) and start poking with a multimeter. I believe that both microswitches are normally open i.e. they close when the spoiler mechanism is at the end of its travel.

Just a cautionary note: the spoiler not being open when it should be is a potentially dangerous situation - the spoiler is not entirely for show.
Hooked it up today to vcds there was onlymone fault which was radio? And when i done the 046 it came back as not communicating so i guess its my ccu its right up the spout do you think?? Next question where is it as its not near amp in boot?
Cheers
 
#15 ·
John949 said:
I think I read somewhere that some cars don't have a central convenience unit. Can't remember whether it was early or later cars though. If your unit is fried then I'm surprised that many other things aren't working e.g. the door locks.
Yes ive read that somewhere aswell and agreed as everything else in thee car is fine apart from the drop on the windows which i think is a motor problem but wany yo sort the ccu first just incase
 
#16 ·
You can always pull the motor if you suspect it's failed. Then connect it directly to the battery and see if it works or not. If it fails to turn, then you've nothing to lose by opening it up (carefully) to see why. Given the recent issue with carbon build up on the window switch motor commutator (where the brushes rub against), it may be something as simple as using Scotchbrite to remove the carbon and then seeing if that solves the problem.

https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... &t=1880469

 

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#17 ·
There's another earlier thread about spoiler failure here:
https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... &t=1871103

The fault on my roadster was a broken wire carrying the higher current feeding the motor - VCDS did not show a fault. Motor worked when connected briefly direct to 12v (care if you do this as the lift mechanism does not have the micro-switches to shut the motor of at the end of travel)

Good luck.
 
#20 · (Edited by Moderator)
If you're running a VCDS, note the diagnostics from the SSP382 below. You'll want to check the appropriate address and related blocks. From another post on the spoiler ReTTro fit noted: "If it's prefacelift it's in 46 Cent. Conv. If it's facelift it's in 09 Cent. Elect". If you don't find it in either of those, check 17 Instruments.

https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... &t=1542593

Diagnosis

The scope of diagnosis in the convenience system central control unit J393 has been extended to include the
new function. Address word 46 is assigned to the convenience system central control unit in the diagnostic
tester.

There is a new data block for the "electrically adjustable rear spoiler" function. It contains the following
information:

● Switch for detecting the end position "rear spoiler retracted" is actuated or not actuated
● Switch for detecting the end position "rear spoiler extended" is actuated or not actuated
● Adjustable rear spoiler switch E127 is actuated or not actuated
● Warning lamp K242 in the adjustable rear spoiler switch E127 is on or off

There is adaption or final control diagnostics function for the electrically adjustable rear spoiler. It is not
included in the coding either, but is standard equipment in the TT Coupé.


Spoiler.JPG
 

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#21 · (Edited)
Had a similar issue with a non functioning spoiler that had plagued the car for a long time. I thought I had previously fixed it as it was showing this code in
03132 - Limit Switch for Rear Spoiler Movement (F135/F136)
008 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent

Connecting 12v directly to the motor and running it in a full cycle fixed it or so I thought. However it came back again a few months later and would not operate. Found the awesome post by Swissjetpilot, thank you!, and found a solution after doing a lot of diagnosis.The spoiler was nicely lubricated and moved easily, worked perfectly with a direct 12v 1.5a supply from a transformer, I was not keen on rigging it directly to the battery as that is a big load. The microswitches worked fine, tested ok throughout the loom down to the CCM (2009 with a seperate unit). The CCM showed no signs of corrosion or dry joints when opened fully and showed no other codes so looked good.I checked the loomfrom CCM to the central connector on the boot lid where the wiring splits to the motor and the microswitches and this was fine too. All plugs and pins were fine.

The issue was the loom from the central connector Under the boot lid to the motor itself. Putting the above supply into these pins would not operate the motor. The loom here is only maybe 15cm, on further investigation I opened up the Heatshrink on it to find two large resistors running from the positive to negative wires. I’ve only ever seen or used resistors on a positive wire, never jump wrong between a positive and negative wires. Beyond my knowledge of electrickery as to why this had been done, my only thought was to reduce the load on the motor possibly somehow??as This was my fault location as far as I could see, so I tried bypassing the negative wire from one plug to another, and after clearing the codes, it works and at perfect speed. I’m unsure of whether one resistor ( they are wired in parallel) has failed, or what is going on here, maybe someone can test the resistance of this loom? I think mine was showing 0.3 ohm but I forgot the scale of ohms the multimeter was on so may be kiloohms etc. I am unsure and after hours on it not keen to rip it apart!

This fix worked for me, and can hopefully help someone else, it may be just this loom is causing issues to save someone installing a whole new mechanism. I used a red jumper wire in the picture below, soldered it onto each end of the loom near the plugs to bypass the resistors, it may be an easy test for someone investigating issues by just pushing a wire into the back of both ends of the negative wire in each plug. No need to cut off the Heatshrink and re-seal it after like I did. But comparing resistance values on this loom with both ends unplugged should shed some light on whether these resistors have failed or not. I just didn’t want to cut them from the loom to test them individually. Also in hindsight I should’ve soldered my repair wire to either end of the light blue wire, and not across the plug to the black wire with blue trace as the was no issue at the plug. Also probably use a more suitable colour of wire like black or brown as it was a negative wire. I was just stupid and too excited to fix it!
Image
 
#22 · (Edited)
From your picture it appears that you have two 56ohm resistors wired in parallel, guessing ~2 watts each making the equivalent of one 28ohm 4 watt resistor.

The resistor(s) are wired between the motor inputs (in parallel with the motor) which would reduce power to the motor. I can't see any reason to do this. Perhaps someone with no electronic experience misunderstood something they read on the internet or ?

Rather than jump them out you could simply cut them away and tape over the crimps. They are not needed and don't belong there.

Note: After a second look it appears that your jumper wire does not serve to bypass the installed resistors. Instead it simply duplicates the path the blue wire takes from the connector to the motor.

If installing the jumper solved your problem then you can conclude you have a break in the blue wire (or a bad pin / socket at the connector) and you restored the path.

Suggest you cut out the resistors and replace both the blue & red wiring from the connector to the motor.

Image