Ive owned my 2012 Mk2 TT since Oct and I’ve had numerous issues. Back and forth to garage, but they are Vauxhall dealers having sold me the car through someone’s part ex. After another Diagnostic check I now have the above code. On Wednesday I have a meeting with the garage to see how to proceed. I’ve been told this is a big job. A local Audi specialist who was recommended to me said they didn’t want it, it was too big a job for them and I was looking at almost £2,000. What does the above mean, how can you explain it to me. The car has already had £2,500 spent on it under warranty since Oct, but now I’m just out of warranty. I’m so upset and I desperately need advice. Can anyone help this lady that knows nothing about cars, only that when I’m sitting in my TT the joy is immense but the ‘driving it’ is always problematic. Shall I cut my loses? Is this fault a very bad one?
2012 2.0 TFSI - P11A1 Cam Shift Actuator A Cylinder 1:Circuit/Open
joylynne1
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Throw in the towel!
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So the code you have there is for the VL (variable valve lift) system. You must have a CESA/CETA engine--EA888 Gen 2, would be 211hp/258lb*ft rated.
I dunno what kind of thing these guys are smoking with this 2000 pound estimate here, but it must be some expensive stuff if they need to charge that much to support their habit.
I get the feeling that kind of "ballpark quote" is more what we call an "eff off quote" here--i.e. meaning they don't want to deal with you or your issue, and would sooner just send you elsewhere because they know you're not going to pay 2000 to repair it. But I mean they kind of already admitted they don't want to deal with it so the 2k is a nothing number they just randomly gave you for that same purpose.
P11A1 is the OBD-generic code for "cam shift actuator" as you say, though I don't believe VAG calls it that. Essentially "cam shift actuator" is what is changing the lift profiles of the exhaust cam. There's two solenoids per cylinder IIRC, located on the back of the valve cover (or more correctly, cam cradle, on EA888s).
Since the car is behaving rather violently though I would highly recommend not driving it until fixed--you could make one problem a whole lot worse when we're talking about a potential camshaft issue. It's one thing to have the cam profiles not locking in correctly, it's another thing if you lose cam timing or have some valve issue that then causes valves to hit pistons--at that point you're probably going to be looking at "a new engine" (or more correctly a cylinder head rebuild, at a minimum). That kind of thing is not supposed to happen (read below about what happens during an actuator fault), but that doesn't mean it's not possible when we're talking about a camshaft issue.
You may have a look at this thread for someone that had an A4 with this problem:
This is on a longitudinal car (TT is transverse) and a 1.8T (apparently in South Africa they had a VL 1.8T??), but it talks about the same code. However some of it may be more technical than helps you out, which I understand.
Indeed you may not exactly want to "become your own mechanic", I still suggest giving this a read since I'm sure you're capable of reading through and at least getting a gist how this system works in general--pages 5-13 of this document (below) outline the workings of the AVS (Audi ValveLift System) which is where your problem is:
Don't let "solenoids" scare you, they are just electromagnetic switches which are either in one position or another, controlled by electricity.
IIRC during most failures of the system, the engine should still run relatively well, though not correctly, and you will get the MIL (Check Engine Light) coming on. As we can see here:
Likely, either the solenoids themselves are the issue or the wiring/fuses/circuits related to them. A quick(er) check of the solenoids is to swap the ones indicated as problematic (presuming "A" is cylinder 1?) with the ones on another cylinder and then see if the code follows the solenoid(s) when it reappears (presumably B, C or whatever they've been moved to). If it doesn't, and remains there (on "A") you know the problem is either electrical/wiring on that cylinder or it's something mechanical at that cam lobe.
The latter (mechanical situation) may indeed cost a lot of money to fix (e.g. a new cam); but something related to the electricals here should cost nowhere near that kind of money. Verifying that stuff electrically does not requre any kind of "special samurai wrench". I suspect this is not "too big a job" for any of the places you've taken it to, it's just out of their expertise diagnositcally--IMO that means they shouldn't be in the business of fixing cars, but that's another story.
First thing's first you need a proper diagnosis and estimate after someone has actually dug into it and told you what's needed to fix it, not this "oh it's too big a job" or "it's 2000 pounds, go away now", etc. type of thing that you seem to be getting.
I mean how "big" a job is it, if you even needed a new exhaust cam, say? If that's what they call a "big job", I think these guys should close up shop and call it a day. I only see this being 2k+ pounds if you needed a new/rebuilt cylinder head (small possibility but I doubt it), and perhaps they'd call that a "big job" but diagnosis on the VL system and telling you what needs to be done from there, that's just standard work. After that, then you'll know whether you're into simple things like electrical repair, new solenoids; or something more costly like a cam or entire head.
I dunno what kind of thing these guys are smoking with this 2000 pound estimate here, but it must be some expensive stuff if they need to charge that much to support their habit.
I get the feeling that kind of "ballpark quote" is more what we call an "eff off quote" here--i.e. meaning they don't want to deal with you or your issue, and would sooner just send you elsewhere because they know you're not going to pay 2000 to repair it. But I mean they kind of already admitted they don't want to deal with it so the 2k is a nothing number they just randomly gave you for that same purpose.
P11A1 is the OBD-generic code for "cam shift actuator" as you say, though I don't believe VAG calls it that. Essentially "cam shift actuator" is what is changing the lift profiles of the exhaust cam. There's two solenoids per cylinder IIRC, located on the back of the valve cover (or more correctly, cam cradle, on EA888s).
Since the car is behaving rather violently though I would highly recommend not driving it until fixed--you could make one problem a whole lot worse when we're talking about a potential camshaft issue. It's one thing to have the cam profiles not locking in correctly, it's another thing if you lose cam timing or have some valve issue that then causes valves to hit pistons--at that point you're probably going to be looking at "a new engine" (or more correctly a cylinder head rebuild, at a minimum). That kind of thing is not supposed to happen (read below about what happens during an actuator fault), but that doesn't mean it's not possible when we're talking about a camshaft issue.
You may have a look at this thread for someone that had an A4 with this problem:
Help with Engine Code P11A100.. - AudiWorld Forums
A4 (B8 Platform) Discussion - Help with Engine Code P11A100.. - Hello, Below are the details Make: Audi Model: Year: 2013 VIN: WAUZZZ8K5DA160377 ODO: 127040 km The car is showing open circuits on all the cam actuators.. Please help with the specs: 1. Ignition on : I am getting 2.5V on the...
www.audiworld.com
This is on a longitudinal car (TT is transverse) and a 1.8T (apparently in South Africa they had a VL 1.8T??), but it talks about the same code. However some of it may be more technical than helps you out, which I understand.
Indeed you may not exactly want to "become your own mechanic", I still suggest giving this a read since I'm sure you're capable of reading through and at least getting a gist how this system works in general--pages 5-13 of this document (below) outline the workings of the AVS (Audi ValveLift System) which is where your problem is:
Don't let "solenoids" scare you, they are just electromagnetic switches which are either in one position or another, controlled by electricity.
IIRC during most failures of the system, the engine should still run relatively well, though not correctly, and you will get the MIL (Check Engine Light) coming on. As we can see here:
The long and the short is, it has to do with the actuator solenoids on the VL system. I don't think this is a 2000 GBP problem TBH. It could be, but it doesn't seem like anyone has actually diagnosed the problem to know--you've just been getting eff off "quotes" from places instead of an actual diagnosis, which is unforutnate.Audi SSP 922903 said:
Likely, either the solenoids themselves are the issue or the wiring/fuses/circuits related to them. A quick(er) check of the solenoids is to swap the ones indicated as problematic (presuming "A" is cylinder 1?) with the ones on another cylinder and then see if the code follows the solenoid(s) when it reappears (presumably B, C or whatever they've been moved to). If it doesn't, and remains there (on "A") you know the problem is either electrical/wiring on that cylinder or it's something mechanical at that cam lobe.
The latter (mechanical situation) may indeed cost a lot of money to fix (e.g. a new cam); but something related to the electricals here should cost nowhere near that kind of money. Verifying that stuff electrically does not requre any kind of "special samurai wrench". I suspect this is not "too big a job" for any of the places you've taken it to, it's just out of their expertise diagnositcally--IMO that means they shouldn't be in the business of fixing cars, but that's another story.
First thing's first you need a proper diagnosis and estimate after someone has actually dug into it and told you what's needed to fix it, not this "oh it's too big a job" or "it's 2000 pounds, go away now", etc. type of thing that you seem to be getting.
I mean how "big" a job is it, if you even needed a new exhaust cam, say? If that's what they call a "big job", I think these guys should close up shop and call it a day. I only see this being 2k+ pounds if you needed a new/rebuilt cylinder head (small possibility but I doubt it), and perhaps they'd call that a "big job" but diagnosis on the VL system and telling you what needs to be done from there, that's just standard work. After that, then you'll know whether you're into simple things like electrical repair, new solenoids; or something more costly like a cam or entire head.
2007 Audi TT Quattro 3.2 Manual Roadster Petrol Blue & Ice Blue Nappa
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@joylynne1 - listen to this guy - TT’sRevenge - he absolutely knows what he’s talking about. Don’t give up on the TT just because some random ass garage decided to quote you stupid prices just because they didn’t (or couldn’t be arsed) want to help……plenty of garages around that do that - price high because they’re not interested.
Again, awesome GTI are a highly reputable garage/shop who are focused on VW/Audi cars and have a fabulous reputation. At least call them first, explain the codes found and see what they say…….nothing to lose but a phone call.
Again, awesome GTI are a highly reputable garage/shop who are focused on VW/Audi cars and have a fabulous reputation. At least call them first, explain the codes found and see what they say…….nothing to lose but a phone call.
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Yeah for sure. It's quite sad reading this knowing someone might ditch and entire car for what might be something as simple as a bad solenoid or a broken wire. We don't know that's all it is, but it could be. Just as is could be bad as a new cylinder head operation. But either way, one should definitely know first. I mean it's all well and dandy when someone buys a car for peanuts "as is" and fixes it for $30 or something, lol, but not so nice for the person that sold the car not knowing it was an "easy fix".
Also to clarify what I was thinking here, I looked back at the codes in the picture of the Snap On scanner.
So basically yes there are two solenoids per cylinder but it's the solenoids that are A and B, not the cylinders.
So P11A1 or A100 means Solenoid A on Cylinder 1. P11A300 (possibly shown as P11A3 on a given scanner) would be indicating Solenoid B on Cylinder 1. Seems like the value after P11A is based on hex or something since P11AB00 is Solenoid B on Cylinder 3, but regardless the scan tool is spitting out the English description anyway.
In this case we know there's just one cylinder and one solenoid being pointed to in codes--the A solenoid on Cylinder 1. Basically need to test that solenoid to see if it's good, swapping is a good way as mentioned--switch it with solenoid A on Cylinder 2 or something. A static test of the solenoid may not reveal a problem so swapping is usually better, these things are switched on/off at a very high speed so even if it works on the bench it may not be reacting fast enough for the ECM to consider it good (as an example).
If code changes to P11A500 then it's almost a guarantee you just need a new solenoid. If code stays as P11A100, then time to check the wiring, connector, etc. to that #1-A solenoid. If that checks out okay, then we might be into something a bit worse, that requires the cradle to come off to inspect the cam.
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Thank you for all the time you have spent giving me your advice. I appreciate it. I will show all comments to the garage who sold me the car.
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Thank you for all the advice
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