Is it a major service as in cambelt, plugs etc. or just a interval service as in oil and filter..... either way I never go to Audi.... for a cambelt change they want £1000 more than a local indie garage

 

In addition to the standard inspection / oil change, the 75k service adds new spark plugs, air filter, Haldex fluid, DSG fluid and accessory V-belt replacement.

 

This is all it shows me. Is the Haldex the same as AWD clutch?

 

This is all it shows me. Is the Haldex the same as AWD clutch?

A bit more than that, but yes Haldex is the AWD system that couples the rear wheels to your drivetrain when your front wheels begin to slip.

Note: Audi doesn't mention it, but there is a replaceable filter that should be changed when you replace the fluid (Filter p/n HALDEX.111358)
Additionally, the Haldex fluid pump has a filter screen should be cleaned while you have the system drained.

 

Who has had this done recently? I got quoted yesterday at $1450 USD, but the service tech accidentally gave me Audi’s universal pricing guide and my total should be $665. I’m blown away that they bump the price 120%.

It's a stealership, that's what they do. Don't go to stealers to service cars! However the lower $665 price is not all that bad but that also depends on what is included at that price point. I still wouldn't let a stealer anywhere near the car but that's not a terrible price talking about going elsewhere.

TBH these are mostly straight forward DIY services you're looking at. If you have any DIY experience and tools (even if just limited to oil changes and brakes type stuff) I suggest you consider DIYing these. OTOH if you're not inclined to be working on cars and/or don't have any tools or equipment that's of course another story--in that case you'll need to find a good and reputable shop in your area, preferably one that specialises in VAG or "Euro cars".

If you choose to go the DIY route, for the DSG fluid you really want to get yourself a proper pump to do so. One of those will cost you about $100 but ECS makes a "multi-use" version of their brake fluid bleeder for less than that. I kind of prefer to have different pumps for brake fluid and for transmissions (and I do) but this is a pretty good one-stop-shop for someone that will very occasionally use this stuff. With the full kit, it can be used for a variety of things like transmission/DSG fluids, etc. Should also be able to use it for the Haldex, but TBH you're better off just using a cheap "out of the bottle" pump there because it's such a small amount of fluid (less than 1L) and the "scavenge limit" of such pumps will make it so you won't be able to pump all the fluid without having more than the one bottle of fluid.

VCDS or OBDeleven are also highly recommended--one to activate the pump when doing the Haldex fluid change; the other to do the DSG adaptation when you're finished doing the fluid change there.

If going to a shop, keep in mind both the Haldex fluid and the DSG fluid are relatively expensive. So a good chunk of the bill for those services will be in just the fluid. The Haldex at least you only have to have one litre; the DSG is more like 5L you need so yeah.

The spark plugs yeah you're at the interval (35k miles first time then every 40k miles so 75k miles is correct). However I'd note that the spark plug changes are almost comically over specified by VAG. They never needed to be done at 35k miles to begin with (though for warranty an original owner would have had to), and may even still be okay at 75k miles (if they had never been changed!). I.e. I would pull them and inspect. If they are still fine just clean & re-gap as necessary and keep on truckin'. On the one hand four plugs are not too expensive but OTOH you're almost certainly just throwing out good plugs. It's just one thing I never understood is how short the plug interval is on these cars. When you pull the plugs at the interval and you see they are perfectly fine, the only thought is, "Why, why do they say to change these???"

Is it a major service as in cambelt, plugs etc. or just a interval service as in oil and filter..... either way I never go to Audi.... for a cambelt change they want £1000 more than a local indie garage

Timing belt is at 110k miles, he's got a ways to go. (Though as I mentioned in the other thread, UK ppl probably would be on their second belt change by now 😁 ) Spark plug interval is indeed at this point but could be skipped as mentioned above.

Note: Audi doesn't mention it, but there is a replaceable filter that should be changed when you replace the fluid (Filter p/n HALDEX.111358)
Additionally, the Haldex fluid pump has a filter screen should be cleaned while you have the system drained.

On that second note, should also be mentioned that particularly if you live in the "salt belt" winter areas this pump will often be seized into the housing. Many places will not want to attempt to get it free as in severe cases, trying to get out the pump will turn into cracking the entire final drive unit case--very bad and costly! In these cases the fluid and filter change are really all you can do.

One other thing I'd mention here OP may consider having done is getting the intake cleaned if it has never been done before. At 75k miles you're about due for a walnut blasting I'd say. Obviously this is only going to add a lot of cost here but it's something to consider if you can swing it. Even if not now, I'd probably have it done in another year at most. Also a good idea to replace the fuel filter. I don't believe it is mentioned in the service schedule at all (except for TDI cars) but it's a cheap and easy replacement; if it has never been changed before, might as well change it now.

 

It's a stealership, that's what they do. Don't go to stealers to service cars! However the lower $665 price is not all that bad but that also depends on what is included at that price point. I still wouldn't let a stealer anywhere near the car but that's not a terrible price talking about going elsewhere.

TBH these are mostly straight forward DIY services you're looking at. If you have any DIY experience and tools (even if just limited to oil changes and brakes type stuff) I suggest you consider DIYing these. OTOH if you're not inclined to be working on cars and/or don't have any tools or equipment that's of course another story--in that case you'll need to find a good and reputable shop in your area, preferably one that specialises in VAG or "Euro cars".

If you choose to go the DIY route, for the DSG fluid you really want to get yourself a proper pump to do so. One of those will cost you about $100 but ECS makes a "multi-use" version of their brake fluid bleeder for less than that. I kind of prefer to have different pumps for brake fluid and for transmissions (and I do) but this is a pretty good one-stop-shop for someone that will very occasionally use this stuff. With the full kit, it can be used for a variety of things like transmission/DSG fluids, etc. Should also be able to use it for the Haldex, but TBH you're better off just using a cheap "out of the bottle" pump there because it's such a small amount of fluid (less than 1L) and the "scavenge limit" of such pumps will make it so you won't be able to pump all the fluid without having more than the one bottle of fluid.

VCDS or OBDeleven are also highly recommended--one to activate the pump when doing the Haldex fluid change; the other to do the DSG adaptation when you're finished doing the fluid change there.

If going to a shop, keep in mind both the Haldex fluid and the DSG fluid are relatively expensive. So a good chunk of the bill for those services will be in just the fluid. The Haldex at least you only have to have one litre; the DSG is more like 5L you need so yeah.

The spark plugs yeah you're at the interval (35k miles first time then every 40k miles so 75k miles is correct). However I'd note that the spark plug changes are almost comically over specified by VAG. They never needed to be done at 35k miles to begin with (though for warranty an original owner would have had to), and may even still be okay at 75k miles (if they had never been changed!). I.e. I would pull them and inspect. If they are still fine just clean & re-gap as necessary and keep on truckin'. On the one hand four plugs are not too expensive but OTOH you're almost certainly just throwing out good plugs. It's just one thing I never understood is how short the plug interval is on these cars. When you pull the plugs at the interval and you see they are perfectly fine, the only thought is, "Why, why do they say to change these???"


Timing belt is at 110k miles, he's got a ways to go. (Though as I mentioned in the other thread, UK ppl probably would be on their second belt change by now 😁 ) Spark plug interval is indeed at this point but could be skipped as mentioned above.


On that second note, should also be mentioned that particularly if you live in the "salt belt" winter areas this pump will often be seized into the housing. Many places will not want to attempt to get it free as in severe cases, trying to get out the pump will turn into cracking the entire final drive unit case--very bad and costly! In these cases the fluid and filter change are really all you can do.

One other thing I'd mention here OP may consider having done is getting the intake cleaned if it has never been done before. At 75k miles you're about due for a walnut blasting I'd say. Obviously this is only going to add a lot of cost here but it's something to consider if you can swing it. Even if not now, I'd probably have it done in another year at most. Also a good idea to replace the fuel filter. I don't believe it is mentioned in the service schedule at all (except for TDI cars) but it's a cheap and easy replacement; if it has never been changed before, might as well change it now.

I just bought the parts/fluids needed. All OEM and some Lemforder parts for a faint knock/clunk in the front driver side suspension. Is the v-belt the same as the accessory/serpentine belt?

Also, I have a 2011 TTS, so I would need a timing chain, not a belt? I'm looking at an online Audi parts catalog and it shows timing chains and a timing belt (different from the accessory belt) that both fit my car 🤔

 

There is a reason most manufacturers put the oil filter under the car and behind a skid tray that is fixed by many bolts of three differrent sizes.….

 

I just bought the parts/fluids needed. All OEM and some Lemforder parts for a faint knock/clunk in the front driver side suspension.

Many of the suspension parts are Lemforder, however it should be noted that sometimes when you buy Lemforder in the aftermarket you instead end up with a "ZF Aftermarket" part, which is not the same as OE. Kind of hit and miss, depending on what it is.

Is the v-belt the same as the accessory/serpentine belt?

Yep. I don't really think it's a huge priority to replace this but if you bought it might as well, it's a super easy job IIRC.

Also, I have a 2011 TTS, so I would need a timing chain, not a belt? I'm looking at an online Audi parts catalog and it shows timing chains and a timing belt (different from the accessory belt) that both fit my car 🤔

Yes you have both. There's a timing belt that is at the "front" of the engine, but there's only a single cam sprocket/gear...for a DOHC engine. The way they accomplish this is there is a chain the top "rear" (the transmission side) that links the cams together. The belt itself is pretty simple as far as timing belts go, because it's like a SOHC engine. However the thing that really sucks is the overall job requires removing the engine mount which is an incredible PITA.

The timing chain OTOH is an interesting job. It's not difficult per se but setting the timing after can be confusing for many; and, the polydrive bolt that holds the phaser to the cam (which you have to remove to get the chain off) both requires a special bit and requires an enormous amount of torque to remove...which also often ends up in shearing the dowel pin on the phaser😅 That part is a fairly easy fix (if it happens) but yeah that bolt is a bit of a doozy. There's some threads here including a very good video on YT posted in the thread, on doing the chain job.

I wouldn't worry about these until you're at the mileage though. The chain technically doesn't have any interval but the tensioner guides are known to crack/break which will usually cause slack in the chain which leads to a rattle and jumping time (usually not so severe as to do any damage though it's possible).

 

Many of the suspension parts are Lemforder, however it should be noted that sometimes when you buy Lemforder in the aftermarket you instead end up with a "ZF Aftermarket" part, which is not the same as OE. Kind of hit and miss, depending on what it is.


Yep. I don't really think it's a huge priority to replace this but if you bought it might as well, it's a super easy job IIRC.



Yes you have both. There's a timing belt that is at the "front" of the engine, but there's only a single cam sprocket/gear...for a DOHC engine. The way they accomplish this is there is a chain the top "rear" (the transmission side) that links the cams together. The belt itself is pretty simple as far as timing belts go, because it's like a SOHC engine. However the thing that really sucks is the overall job requires removing the engine mount which is an incredible PITA.

The timing chain OTOH is an interesting job. It's not difficult per se but setting the timing after can be confusing for many; and, the polydrive bolt that holds the phaser to the cam (which you have to remove to get the chain off) both requires a special bit and requires an enormous amount of torque to remove...which also often ends up in shearing the dowel pin on the phaser😅 That part is a fairly easy fix (if it happens) but yeah that bolt is a bit of a doozy. There's some threads here including a very good video on YT posted in the thread, on doing the chain job.

I wouldn't worry about these until you're at the mileage though. The chain technically doesn't have any interval but the tensioner guides are known to crack/break which will usually cause slack in the chain which leads to a rattle and jumping time (usually not so severe as to do any damage though it's possible).

How would I know if I got a ZF part? 😳

 

I got the ZF ugh

 

ZF and Lemforder are the same company. But what I meant to say was sometimes you don't get the OE part, you get "ZF Aftermarket" which is made somewhere else (like China). What you got there is German made, so definitely will be quality and is probably the OE part

 

Well, Lemförder belongs to ZF since 40 years.

LEMFÖRDER

LEMFÖRDER is the No.1 brand in original equipment steering and chassis components.

aftermarket.zf.com

 

Update: It came out to about roughly $1700 at an independent shop.

I asked to put in a new thermostat and coolant flush but they said there was a historical CEL code (it cleared itself) P2181 so they didn't do it. I'm not sure why they didn't, but I guess I should do water pump too if I'm going to have the coolant flushed. Timing belt too or that isn't necessary?

I also have to clean out the drains by the windshield and might have to get a new blower motor eventually since mine got soaked from the carwash. Along with that I need new brakes and my driver side front mag ride shock is leaking on the top. Other than that they said it's in pretty good shape....even though I'm pretty sure my turbo is no good and there's still that very small clunk when driving under 10mph and hit a bump in an up and down motion so they didn't replace the ball joints or end links either.

 

Update: It came out to about roughly $1700 at an independent shop.

I asked to put in a new thermostat and coolant flush but they said there was a historical CEL code (it cleared itself) P2181 so they didn't do it. I'm not sure why they didn't, but I guess I should do water pump too if I'm going to have the coolant flushed. Timing belt too or that isn't necessary?

So if you're paying someone to do the work I guess it barely matter when you do what or in what order. I think we've already been over the timing belt business and when to do it ad nausem on this forum so my thoughts on that are well-known (do it at the interval) but opinions honestly vary, esp. from the UK crowd lol.

But getting away from opening that can of worms, let's talk about the thermostat and coolant change. The thermostat is something I just changed myself when I did my oil filter housing. My thermostat was perfectly fine BTW I just figured after my mileage which is literally double yours, it was probably a good idea while I had the cooling system drained and already made a huge mess and all that. Just because I didn't want to have anything to do with any more "coolant draining jobs", than anything else 😅 I've read enough threads about the stat failing on these engines so I figured now was as good a time as any. Whether you really need to do or not, I would probably lean towards not doing it.

However if you're going to have the coolant drained/flushed anyway it's an idea to have it done so you save on the cost of coolant (though that may not be that high depending on what your shop charges you and how much they end up having to put in on just a thermostat change). The thermostat job is honestly not really that related to any other job, save for the part that you'd be draining the coolant (or having it spill all over the goddamn place if you didn't...which it will still spill a bit even if you did drain the coolant because this is what these things are lol). You can kind of tell I hate dealing with things that involve opening the cooling system just from a "what a goddamn mess" point of view 🤣 Having the stuff done by a mechanic in a shop--I mean the heck do you care, you're not the one getting coolant rained on you right?

The thermostat job is somewhat simple but requires removing the alternator. This is not in itself difficult but it has to be removed to get to the thermostat. No other thing really requires that...well except for actually replacing the alternator (of which they are very reliable on these cars and would rarely need replacement knock on wood). So it doesn't really align with anything else. Doing the timing belt would involve things close by (like that darn engine mount) as well as again draining the coolant, but otherwise wouldn't be related to the thermostat at all. The water pump yes of course (that pretty much is always replaced with the timing belt) but the thermostat not really.

The coolant itself Audi tells you "lifetime" but that's really not the case. If it has never been changed, it's a very good idea to have it changed--whether or not you want to pay for the thermostat plus the add'l labour I suppose is up to you. I'd probably just leave it and save the $50ish USD the stat/housing costs, but yeah you make that call. Realistically the coolant shouldn't be in there for more than 6 years...maybe 8 tops but 10+? Yeah Audi is dreaming there. Keep in mind though that various other jobs would involve coolant being drained so some large portion of the coolant may have already been replaced depending on what work has been done on it in its lifetime.

I also have to clean out the drains by the windshield and might have to get a new blower motor eventually since mine got soaked from the carwash. Along with that I need new brakes and my driver side front mag ride shock is leaking on the top. Other than that they said it's in pretty good shape....even though I'm pretty sure my turbo is no good and there's still that very small clunk when driving under 10mph and hit a bump in an up and down motion so they didn't replace the ball joints or end links either.

Well the turbo...there's another one that requires draining the coolant, heh. However why would you think your turbo "is no good"? A bad/inop turbo the car would behave like a slug--relatively low compression 2.0L engine--it would not be a good time. A turbo with something not functioning right like a stuck open wastegate, bad N75, etc. that may not be entirely noticeable nor cause a big performance hit, but would definitely set an underboost code at least. It would be fairly unusual for a stock K04 to go kaput at just 75k miles. I mean it's not unheard of but it's also not all that common. The more common issue on the K03/IHI turbos is the wastegate arm has play and thus the gate does not fully close; however, if this happens on the K04 (in the S), the arm is adjustable and it's a more trivial fix (the lesser-turbo'd cars the common remedy is to replace the whole turbo instead of trying to fix it).

 

So if you're paying someone to do the work I guess it barely matter when you do what or in what order. I think we've already been over the timing belt business and when to do it ad nausem on this forum so my thoughts on that are well-known (do it at the interval) but opinions honestly vary, esp. from the UK crowd lol.

But getting away from opening that can of worms, let's talk about the thermostat and coolant change. The thermostat is something I just changed myself when I did my oil filter housing. My thermostat was perfectly fine BTW I just figured after my mileage which is literally double yours, it was probably a good idea while I had the cooling system drained and already made a huge mess and all that. Just because I didn't want to have anything to do with any more "coolant draining jobs", than anything else 😅 I've read enough threads about the stat failing on these engines so I figured now was as good a time as any. Whether you really need to do or not, I would probably lean towards not doing it.

However if you're going to have the coolant drained/flushed anyway it's an idea to have it done so you save on the cost of coolant (though that may not be that high depending on what your shop charges you and how much they end up having to put in on just a thermostat change). The thermostat job is honestly not really that related to any other job, save for the part that you'd be draining the coolant (or having it spill all over the goddamn place if you didn't...which it will still spill a bit even if you did drain the coolant because this is what these things are lol). You can kind of tell I hate dealing with things that involve opening the cooling system just from a "what a goddamn mess" point of view 🤣 Having the stuff done by a mechanic in a shop--I mean the heck do you care, you're not the one getting coolant rained on you right?

The thermostat job is somewhat simple but requires removing the alternator. This is not in itself difficult but it has to be removed to get to the thermostat. No other thing really requires that...well except for actually replacing the alternator (of which they are very reliable on these cars and would rarely need replacement knock on wood). So it doesn't really align with anything else. Doing the timing belt would involve things close by (like that darn engine mount) as well as again draining the coolant, but otherwise wouldn't be related to the thermostat at all. The water pump yes of course (that pretty much is always replaced with the timing belt) but the thermostat not really.

The coolant itself Audi tells you "lifetime" but that's really not the case. If it has never been changed, it's a very good idea to have it changed--whether or not you want to pay for the thermostat plus the add'l labour I suppose is up to you. I'd probably just leave it and save the $50ish USD the stat/housing costs, but yeah you make that call. Realistically the coolant shouldn't be in there for more than 6 years...maybe 8 tops but 10+? Yeah Audi is dreaming there. Keep in mind though that various other jobs would involve coolant being drained so some large portion of the coolant may have already been replaced depending on what work has been done on it in its lifetime.


Well the turbo...there's another one that requires draining the coolant, heh. However why would you think your turbo "is no good"? A bad/inop turbo the car would behave like a slug--relatively low compression 2.0L engine--it would not be a good time. A turbo with something not functioning right like a stuck open wastegate, bad N75, etc. that may not be entirely noticeable nor cause a big performance hit, but would definitely set an underboost code at least. It would be fairly unusual for a stock K04 to go kaput at just 75k miles. I mean it's not unheard of but it's also not all that common. The more common issue on the K03/IHI turbos is the wastegate arm has play and thus the gate does not fully close; however, if this happens on the K04 (in the S), the arm is adjustable and it's a more trivial fix (the lesser-turbo'd cars the common remedy is to replace the whole turbo instead of trying to fix it).

Thanks for the reply. I’m not sure why the shop decided not to change the thermostat. Maybe they didn’t want to and just came up with the reason for being the water pump should be changed too? I’m at a loss really.

As for my turbo, it has a weird sound when spooling up like air escaping “pssss pssss pssss pssss” very fast and afterwards it makes the “tuuu tuu tu” but doesn’t sound like the healthy way…if that makes sense. If just feels really fragile so that’s why I’ve gotten such good gas mileage, from driving around cautiously lol

 

Thanks for the reply. I’m not sure why the shop decided not to change the thermostat. Maybe they didn’t want to and just came up with the reason for being the water pump should be changed too? I’m at a loss really.

Yeah makes no sense. The water pump and timing belt go hand in hand, yes. However you'd never change the water pump alone unless it was the thing that failed in particular. It doesn't sound like you have a water pump failure. The entire reason for changing the water pump "while you're in there" for the timing belt job is that you don't want to do (or pay for) the labour to get in there and only change the water pump at a later date/time--might as well change it with the belt. This is largely a throwback to earlier times though when it was standard practice and I think water pumps failed more often. In reality I think on these you could get away with not even changing the water pump with the timing belt; but, why take the chance?

The thermostat is, as said, a mostly standalone job. I'd just leave that alone unless you have a problem. It seems 9/10 times if it does fail, it fails in the open position, meaning the engine just won't warm up (as opposed to overheating). At your mileage I'd say forget about it, esp. given is sounds like you have other fish to more immediately fry.

As for my turbo, it has a weird sound when spooling up like air escaping “pssss pssss pssss pssss” very fast and afterwards it makes the “tuuu tuu tu” but doesn’t sound like the healthy way…if that makes sense. If just feels really fragile so that’s why I’ve gotten such good gas mileage, from driving around cautiously lol

Air escaping may be a boost leak somewhere, like a disconnected pipe, loose clamp, etc. Otherwise these noises are completely normal--that's the turbo stalling. Note: this is an aerodynamic stall (of the impeller blades) I'm talking about, not some kind of rotational stoppage of the turbine which would be impossible. There's normal turbo stall and stall which is problematic. Normal stall and the "turkey noises" that accompany it are fine provided they do not occur at full throttle. If they are happening at part throttle or anytime when you or the the ECU closes the throttle a little for any reason (e.g. on gearshifts w/DSG, on ESC activation, etc.) this is all normal. If it happens on flat out, full throttle, "foot to the floor" acceleration, then that's a problem since you're encountering surge which can damage the turbo. The turkey noises I mean. The "pssss" or hissing noises could be more related to a leaking connection, as mentioned. In a bad case it could be a leaking intercooler core, but otherwise I doubt it's the turbo itself.

 

Yeah makes no sense. The water pump and timing belt go hand in hand, yes. However you'd never change the water pump alone unless it was the thing that failed in particular. It doesn't sound like you have a water pump failure. The entire reason for changing the water pump "while you're in there" for the timing belt job is that you don't want to do (or pay for) the labour to get in there and only change the water pump at a later date/time--might as well change it with the belt. This is largely a throwback to earlier times though when it was standard practice and I think water pumps failed more often. In reality I think on these you could get away with not even changing the water pump with the timing belt; but, why take the chance?

The thermostat is, as said, a mostly standalone job. I'd just leave that alone unless you have a problem. It seems 9/10 times if it does fail, it fails in the open position, meaning the engine just won't warm up (as opposed to overheating). At your mileage I'd say forget about it, esp. given is sounds like you have other fish to more immediately fry.


Air escaping may be a boost leak somewhere, like a disconnected pipe, loose clamp, etc. Otherwise these noises are completely normal--that's the turbo stalling. Note: this is an aerodynamic stall (of the impeller blades) I'm talking about, not some kind of rotational stoppage of the turbine which would be impossible. There's normal turbo stall and stall which is problematic. Normal stall and the "turkey noises" that accompany it are fine provided they do not occur at full throttle. If they are happening at part throttle or anytime when you or the the ECU closes the throttle a little for any reason (e.g. on gearshifts w/DSG, on ESC activation, etc.) this is all normal. If it happens on flat out, full throttle, "foot to the floor" acceleration, then that's a problem since you're encountering surge which can damage the turbo. The turkey noises I mean. The "pssss" or hissing noises could be more related to a leaking connection, as mentioned. In a bad case it could be a leaking intercooler core, but otherwise I doubt it's the turbo itself.

Thanks for all the knowledge! I needed the stat changed because I had P2181. I had a feeling it was bad prior to any code because of the behavior of the needle and the code kind of confirmed it for me. I really don’t know why they wouldn’t change it though. Kind of frustrating. I guess I’ll just take it to the dealership to change.