My local indie did both of mine last year. He rated it as a PIA, and his workshop is very well equipped. Cost was £482, inc parts and vat.
Mac.

 

My local indie did both of mine last year. He rated it as a PIA, and his workshop is very well equipped. Cost was £482, inc parts and vat.
Mac.

Thanks for the info ....
Genuine sensors are £80 each so it'd cost me £160 plus the cost of brake fluid and my time.
I hate paying anyone to do work that I can do myself, it's just I'd like to really know if it's a nightmare job before I attempt it.
I felt the same way before doing the cam belt and water pump , and that worked out fine.

 

I believe DC240S replaced these on page 40 of his build thread, worth a look.

 

I believe DC240S replaced these on page 40 of his build thread, worth a look.

Thanks , came across it earlier whilst searching for info and it does make it look very doable.....

 

I did it on a friend's car and I'd rate it about a 7 (out of 10). You have to remove the plastic shroud round the fuel / evaporative emission pipes (don't get them mixed up) and then it's not too bad. His car wasn't a 225 though so it may not be quite the same - the charge pipe will have to come off for starters.

 

I was quoted approx £500 to change both sensors at an Indi - DIY cost me nothing - in fact I made a profit with the sale of surplus OE sensors (bought 4x genuine for £10 ea. from a VAG dealership).

Entirely possible as a DIY job - buy the parts/tools you'l need in advance and recommend a pressure bleeder like the SEALEY one I used.

Buy a replacement securing bolt for the reservoir as engaging that in the thread is perhaps the fiddliest job and its likely you'l drop it - think mine fell into the hole in the chassis box section! - I had to then wait a week for a replacement!

https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... &start=675

 

I did it on a friend's car and I'd rate it about a 7 (out of 10). You have to remove the plastic shroud round the fuel / evaporative emission pipes (don't get them mixed up) and then it's not too bad. His car wasn't a 225 though so it may not be quite the same - the charge pipe will have to come off for starters.

Thanks , that reassures me , certainly seems within my capabilities .

I was quoted approx £500 to change both sensors at an Indi - DIY cost me nothing - in fact I made a profit with the sale of surplus OE sensors (bought 4x genuine for £10 ea.).

Entirely possible as a DIY job - buy the parts/tools you'l need in advance and recommend a pressure bleeder like the SEALEY one I used.

Buy a replacement securing bolt for the reservoir as engaging that in the thread is perhaps the fiddliest job and its likely you'l drop it - think mine fell into the hole in the chassis box section! - I had to then wait a week for a replacement!

https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... &start=675

Thanks, you did well to get those sensors for a mere tenner , the cheapest Genuine I could find were £80 each .
No way am I going to fit repros off eBay as they all seem the same items from China , just at different prices.
Sadly the reservoir securing bolt appears to be NLA.
I see from your thread that you only bled the master cylinder , front calipers and clutch?
Did you not do the ABS pump bleed?
That looks a worse job than the sensors :lol: .
Lastly, Bentley says the torque for the sensors is 10ft/lbs , is there space to get a socket/torque wrench in there or do you have to guesstimate and did the new sensors need calibrating with VCDS once fitted?
Thanks .

 

This looks genuine £39 message them to check https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FOR-VW-AUDI- ... Sw3-Be-OFq
Another one same price https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-AUDI-SEAT ... Swc5Jd07Yo

 

Thanks, you did well to get those sensors for a mere tenner , the cheapest Genuine I could find were £80 each .
No way am I going to fit repros off eBay as they all seem the same items from China , just at different prices.
Sadly the reservoir securing bolt appears to be NLA.
I see from your thread that you only bled the master cylinder , front calipers and clutch?
Did you not do the ABS pump bleed?
That looks a worse job than the sensors :lol: .
Lastly, Bentley says the torque for the sensors is 10ft/lbs , is there space to get a socket/torque wrench in there or do you have to guesstimate and did the new sensors need calibrating with VCDS once fitted?
Thanks .

Use genuine sensors supplied from TPS or VAG dealership or other confirmed VAG source - there are some convincing chines copies on eBay.
Strange on the bolt - have you tried Coverdale parts?
No need to bleed the ABS pump - there was a reason as I remember - perhaps because the system is bled before and the unit isn't cycled through the process?
Torque was indeed approximate - no access for the torque wrench I have.
No VCDS calibration required - just a code scan and clear down.

DC

 

This looks genuine £39 message them to check https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FOR-VW-AUDI- ... Sw3-Be-OFq
Another one same price https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-AUDI-SEAT ... Swc5Jd07Yo

Thanks, I saw those but I *think* they're Chinese, having seen them for £13 on AliExpress I'm of the opinion that all the cheap ones on eBay are Chinese.
I've gone for 2 from Stafford Audi , via eBay again but at £80 each by far the best price I could find , for Genuine Audi/ATE at least .

Use genuine sensors supplied from TPS or VAG dealership or other confirmed VAG source - there are some convincing chines copies on eBay.
Strange on the bolt - have you tried Coverdale parts?
No need to bleed the ABS pump - there was a reason as I remember - perhaps because the system is bled before and the unit isn't cycled through the process?
Torque was indeed approximate - no access for the torque wrench I have.
No VCDS calibration required - just a code scan and clear down.

DC

Thanks that's really useful info , I'm going to get one of those Sealey gizmos you mention , I do have an Ezibleed but the Sealey looks much better.
It is odd about the reservoir bolt (1J2 611 353) , I was given a price this morning at my local VW main dealer so I ordered it, but they rang me soon after to say it was no longer available.
I have found it on the internet in Lithuania & Slovakia but with carriage included it would cost £20-25 which is insane for a single bolt.
I've just bought a cheap s/h master cylinder and reservoir off eBay with the bolt included for well under that, so it's sorted :mrgreen: .
Am feeling a lot more confident now about doing the job , thanks again .

 

Thanks that's really useful info , I'm going to get one of those Sealey gizmos you mention , I do have an Ezibleed but the Sealey looks much better.
It is odd about the reservoir bolt (1J2 611 353) , I was given a price this morning at my local VW main dealer so I ordered it, but they rang me soon after to say it was no longer available.
I have found it on the internet in Lithuania & Slovakia but with carriage included it would cost £20-25 which is insane for a single bolt.
I've just bought a cheap s/h master cylinder and reservoir off eBay with the bolt included for well under that, so it's sorted :mrgreen: .
Am feeling a lot more confident now about doing the job , thanks again .

As I mentioned in my thread when removing the reservoir try to avoid accidentally pulling the rubber clutch fluid supply hose away from the bulkhead hard pipe - its well hidden behind the aluminium heat shield which needs to come off to re-attach/clip - that's a real faff!

DC

 

As I mentioned in my thread when removing the reservoir try to avoid accidentally pulling the rubber clutch fluid supply hose away from the bulkhead hard pipe - its well hidden behind the aluminium heat shield which needs to come off to re-attach/clip - that's a real faff!

DC

I shall definitely take great care , thanks!

 

Well can't fault Stafford Audi , ordered sensors very late on Monday night and they arrived this morning 8) .
Nice fresh stock too, these ATE sensors are a dark gun-metal colour, nothing like the silver-coloured supposedly OEM ones on eBay......
Just need to find time to do them now ......

 

Nice! Will be very satisfying when completed

 

Nice! Will be very satisfying when completed

Definitely, I think the fault has been there ever since I purchased the car in February as VCDS threw up a faulty brake light switch code (since replaced) which I now think was a manifestation of the pressure sensors beginning to play up.
There doesn't seem to be any logic to when the ESP light will come on now , it did appear to get worse on really hot days but now it seems random.
The sensor(s) gave wild pressure readings the first time I checked measuring block 5 with VCDS but after a long journey yesterday with an extremely hot engine bay (and no ESP light) the sensors tested fine :roll: .
Time will tell if this really sorts out the ESP light issue but I'm quite confident it will as at least one of the current brake pressure sensors is dodgy.

 

I've got all the parts and tools required now to do the job, plan is to change the sensors early next week.
Seeing as how access is so tight in there, I plan on removing the reservoir as per DC240S's thread.....

DC240S; can I pick your brains with regard to the hydraulics please?
Did you just whip off the old sensors and screw the new ones in, or did you try and fill the new sensors with a drop of brake fluid prior to putting them in (there seems to be enough room to get fluid in there..)?
When it comes to bleeding what order did you do it in?
I'm guessing :
Master cylinder bleed nipples
Front left calliper
Right front caliper
Clutch

Lastly , I gather from your thread that you didn't need to do an ABS pump bleed?
I'm really hoping that I don't either!

Thanks!

 

I've got all the parts and tools required now to do the job, plan is to change the sensors early next week.
Seeing as how access is so tight in there, I plan on removing the reservoir as per DC240S's thread.....

DC240S; can I pick your brains with regard to the hydraulics please?
Did you just whip off the old sensors and screw the new ones in, or did you try and fill the new sensors with a drop of brake fluid prior to putting them in (there seems to be enough room to get fluid in there..)?
When it comes to bleeding what order did you do it in?
I'm guessing :
Master cylinder bleed nipples
Front left calliper
Right front caliper
Clutch

Lastly , I gather from your thread that you didn't need to do an ABS pump bleed?
I'm really hoping that I don't either!

Thanks!

After syringing as much fluid from the master cylinder as possible (with workshop tissue underneath for spillage/dripping), I just removed old sensors and replaced with new.
Yes - bled master cylinder first - then clutch IIRC then callipers. Didn't need to bleed ABS as this remained a closed circuit during process. To 100% remove old fluid and any air suspected in the system - yes bleed the ABS.

Thats as I understand/did - I may be corrected.

 

After syringing as much fluid from the master cylinder as possible (with workshop tissue underneath for spillage/dripping), I just removed old sensors and replaced with new.
Yes - bled master cylinder first - then clutch IIRC then callipers. Didn't need to bleed ABS as this remained a closed circuit during process. To 100% remove old fluid and any air suspected in the system - yes bleed the ABS.

Thats as I understand/did - I may be corrected.

Great stuff , thanks for the extra details ! .

 

Well I've come to an impasse .
I just can't remove this cradle thing to get at the sensors , I've managed to wiggle it free of a stud so it moves side to side an inch or two but there's no way I can get my hands or any tools in there as it is .
The screw holding the reservoir on is on this side too so until this cradle is out of the way I'm stuck.
I did manage to half unclip the lid on this thing then decided that it didn't serve any purpose and so replaced it, fearful of breaking those pipes I've downed my tools .
Does it undo from below?
I haven't removed the engine under tray because I was hoping not to have to go to all the faff .

 

I should have Googled it first .
Just found a video explaining Golf master cylinder removal which shows it , around the 2 mins 50 secs mark.....

 

I should have Googled it first .
Just found a video explaining Golf master cylinder removal which shows it , around the 2 mins 50 secs mark.....

Yep - it all unclips - patience is key - go slowly.

 

Thanks DC240S.
Once you know how, that cradle thing does come apart quite easily.... that video was so useful.
New sensors installed but alas my crows foot wrench won't fit in there so I had to guesstimate how tight to do them up.
I actually chickened-out and chose to leave the reservoir in place.
Just putting things back together now and then to bleed everything.....

 

All finished and I think successful 8) .
Tested the new sensors with VCDS and the pressure readings from both new sensors are near identical .
Time will tell if it has really fixed my ESP light problem but the omens are good that it has .
Thanks to everybody who's helped me on this thread and especially DC240S!

 

Glad I could help! It's what the community's for.

 

Hi Dc reading up on the brake servo sensor replacement and was looking for advice on how to remove the brake fluid reservoir retaining screw. Thanks AJ

 

Thought I'd post an update in case anyone else has to do this job in the future .
All totally DIY-able with only basic tools.
TBH having done it , I don't really get the "pig of a job" label :? .
The trickiest part of the whole job for me was screwing in the new sensors ( taking great care not to cross-thread them!) but nothing was really difficult at all?
It took me an entire working day to do (8.30am -5pm) but that included lots of down-time when I couldn't figure out how to remove the fuel pipe assmbly/cover and general faffing around on my part .
I reckon I could do it again in 3-4 hrs or less .
Have done almost 300 miles in the car now since doing the job and no ESP lights have come on, just did another VCDS scan and there's still no fault code in the ABS system so I'm very confident that it is fixed.
I wouldn't have been able to do it without DC240S's excellent guide but I did deviate slightly ....
Even though I did buy the master cylinder bung seals to allow removal of the master cylinder reservoir because DC240S had issues with pulling off the clutch line accidentally I decided in the end to leave the reservoir in place .
I used a large syringe to remove as much brake fluid as possible from the reservoir and once the coolant tank had been removed it created a lot more space to work in .
The PAS fluid reservoir was just moved out of the way with a few cable ties , nothing needed to be disconnected .
Once the space around the master cylinder had been created it was simply a case of undoing the brake pressure sensors (easy to undo as they really are not tight) and then allowing the brake fluid remaining to drip out .
I stuffed the best part of 2 x toilet rolls down underneath the master cylinder and this mass soaked up all the remaining fluid ( I wasn't in any rush) and once there were no drips I replaced both sensors .
I had purchased a crows foot spanner (27mm) to enable me to torque up the new sensors but with reservoir in place there was no way I could get it in there , I'm not 100% sure even with reservoir removed the crows foot spanner would have fitted ...
So I had to estimate the 10lbs/ft tightening torque using a ring spanner, it's not a high figure by any means.
Once the sensors were tightened up and the electrical plugs re-connected it was a simple case of just putting everything back together and bleeding the master cylinder , clutch and front calipers.
Using a pressure bleeder this was done very easily and I was rewarded with a nice clutch pedal and firm brake pedal at the first test drive out of the garage .
I'd definitely do this job again and wouldn't think twice about recommending others to do it themselves , the fact that I saved a few hundred £ is an even greater bonus .