I've just done a front speaker swap and added an amp. I can't help you much with the practicalities of running cables and removing panels as I had it done by a specialist installer.

I did do a fair bit of research / googling though

For the speaker positions check this link out
http://www.volkspage.net/technik/ssp/ssp/SSP_382.pdf

The front speakers are about 20cm dia but they are in an integral housing with mount points at 22.5 dia I had a set of 16.5cm speakers put in and the shop used reducing adapters of some sort.

There is a centre speaker in the middle of the dash and a tweeter at each end.

The Bose system has 2 speakers in each door but the standard system only has one in each door, there is nothing behind the smaller upper grille.

The speakers are actually driven from a small amp (j525) which is located behind the rear lhs wheel arch. You can get a line feed from here to feed an amp in the boot so you don't have to run RCA from the head. Look in the KB for the guide to adding a sub and you will see what this looks like (that's a Bose system but I guess the normal j525 is similar and located in the same place)

Hope that helps. I'm still having some teething problems with my install but if and when I get it ironed out I will post a guide to my install

 

Withoout trying to sound rude. your budget will not allow much in the way of an upgrade.
Basically your looking at - SoundDeadening - £60
Cables - £50 plus
Nif Naf - £0
Half Decent Speakers - £200 plus
Half Decent Amp - £300 plus

Unless your quite good at this sort of thing best left to an expert, running RCA's go down one side of the car, Power the other side. This involves removing all the trims so that they can be put behind out of sight.

I would recommend looking at your local dealer, Four Masters is a guide to see who is any good local.

I cant recommend Huets in Brighton and Worthing Highly enough they did my install and believe me it's A Very Loud and B very clear and I have a roadster

 

Withoout trying to sound rude. your budget will not allow much in the way of an upgrade.
Basically your looking at - SoundDeadening - £60
Cables - £50 plus
Nif Naf - £0
Half Decent Speakers - £200 plus
Half Decent Amp - £300 plus

Unless your quite good at this sort of thing best left to an expert, running RCA's go down one side of the car, Power the other side. This involves removing all the trims so that they can be put behind out of sight.

I would recommend looking at your local dealer, Four Masters is a guide to see who is any good local.

I cant recommend Huets in Brighton and Worthing Highly enough they did my install and believe me it's A Very Loud and B very clear and I have a roadster

Appreciate the honest contructive criticism. However a) I'll be using mp3s between 128-224 mp3s and b) Years of squat parties/gigging have pretty much ruined my ears so I'm no major audiophile and can't tolerate above a certain volume - I just want a not-bad sound. Was looking at the Hertz Energy 165 components for around £140 and a JL amp to power them at about £120. Already have an infinity sub and amp and not-bad pioneer coaxials for the back with a half-decent pioneer HU so I'm hoping it'll be quarter-decent compared to the stock POS.

I've already installed RCAs down one side and power through the front block from the battery (in my A3 with shockingly an even nicer interior! ) but anyway the battery is in the back. Still, I take your point: if I do it it may not go back together nicely but if a pro does it hopefully it will... but on the other hand if I do it I'll be a perfectionist about it compared to someone who doesn't give too much of a sh*t about my car just getting through the job to get the money... ?

Where would you put sound deadening? Doors?

 

I've just done a front speaker swap and added an amp. I can't help you much with the practicalities of running cables and removing panels as I had it done by a specialist installer.

I did do a fair bit of research / googling though

For the speaker positions check this link out
http://www.volkspage.net/technik/ssp/ssp/SSP_382.pdf

The front speakers are about 20cm dia but they are in an integral housing with mount points at 22.5 dia I had a set of 16.5cm speakers put in and the shop used reducing adapters of some sort.

There is a centre speaker in the middle of the dash and a tweeter at each end.

The Bose system has 2 speakers in each door but the standard system only has one in each door, there is nothing behind the smaller upper grille.

The speakers are actually driven from a small amp (j525) which is located behind the rear lhs wheel arch. You can get a line feed from here to feed an amp in the boot so you don't have to run RCA from the head. Look in the KB for the guide to adding a sub and you will see what this looks like (that's a Bose system but I guess the normal j525 is similar and located in the same place)

Hope that helps. I'm still having some teething problems with my install but if and when I get it ironed out I will post a guide to my install

zx6r this is an INCREDIBLY helpful post. Thanks so much mate!!!!! Answering many of my Qs PRECISELY on the head. How often does that happen on a forum!!?

If what you say is true about an amp in the back then it's potentially REVOLUTIONISED the whole issue for me as all I'll have to do is rewire a new amp or two in the back stealing connections already to/from the little amp because the battery is in the boot anyway an all the wiring will already be there. Lastly I'll just have to remove grills and install new speakers. And chanin the HU with new fascia and wiring loom of some sort will be a doddle.

Mate, this is FANTASTIC NEWS! I just hope the J525 is actually an amp i.e. it recieves line level inputs and not some sort of weird EQ/crossover thingie... The brilliant pdf link you give me doesn't make it all that clear. Any ideas or anyone know for sure?

THanks again dude!!! :mrgreen:

 

As far as I'm aware the amplifier of the Concert Radio is not used. So the amp in the back does it all. I guess it is a digital sound processor too, enabling Audi to modify the output depending on engine and upholstery. Last but not least, it creates a bit of an delay on the rear speakers making the car sound bigger than it actually is. Perhaps I read that in the PDF, I can't remember.

 

I'd go for second hand equipment, pick up a nice 4 channel amp and run the fronts of the front channels and the rears bridge to power a sub, it won't go really loud but should be enough. The other option is a 5 channel amp, use 4 channels to run the mids and tweeters active and the remaining channel for the sub.

You should be able to pick up a nice DLS or Genesis amp for around 120-150, the hertz speakers you mention are a good start, if not consider some rainbows or DLS, and then a small 10" sub nd you will be good to go

 

I installed an active sub in the boot of mine, it was really convenient having the battery and amp(Bose) in the back as I could tap off all the connection that I needed! However I did need to route the remote module (level, phase & cut off frequency) through to the front. So I did remove side panels and sill liners to get it from the back to the dash. It isn't difficult as the panels just pull off although you do need to use a lot of force to pop the clicks out of their holes..
tbh just adding the sub made a massive difference to the bass and general loudness of the sound...I would say that I'm content with it now...although may add some damping material in the boot....

Take a look at this guide in the KB as it has the wires you need to tap off for speakers /remote on/off etc:-

http://www.********.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=43&t=133879

 

I performed a mini mod on the dashboard tweeters the other day. Used a blunt knife for lifting the speaker grills. Getting the tweeters out is then a pretty straightforward job.

On the tweeter you'll see that a cheap electrolytic capacitor (in my case, none Bose, 6.8 micro Farad) is used as a crossover filter. From an Hi-Fi perspective that is utter rubbish. Electrolytic capacitors kill the sparkling that should come with the high frequencies. Putting in a high end capacitor would be a waste of money, it's a car after all. And it wouldn't fit either. So the quick and cheap solution is to create a bypass for the higher frequencies by adding a Wima MKS foil capacitor, parallel to the electrolytic one:

Careful not to short cut the electrolytic capacitor. That would kill the tweeter when reconnected to the amp.

Like so, the tweeter assembly still just fits into the dash without further mods. Grille fits too, no issues. Result: just that bit more life in the higher frequencies. Acoustic guitars and such sound that bit more alive.

It took all of 30 minutes. Tools required: blunt knife, small 15 watt of so soldering iron with a fine tip. 2 foil capacitors. I used the Wima MKS 4 version, 0.33 micro Farad because I had them lying around and had good experience with them already. They survive the hot dash temperatures too. 0.33 micro Farad is a nice value. Lower is OK too. Don't be tempted to put in higher values. It doesn't give a better result and it lowers the crossover frequency.

 

I installed an active sub in the boot of mine, it was really convenient having the battery and amp(Bose) in the back as I could tap off all the connection that I needed! However I did need to route the remote module (level, phase & cut off frequency) through to the front. So I did remove side panels and sill liners to get it from the back to the dash. It isn't difficult as the panels just pull off although you do need to use a lot of force to pop the clicks out of their holes..
tbh just adding the sub made a massive difference to the bass and general loudness of the sound...I would say that I'm content with it now...although may add some damping material in the boot....

Take a look at this guide in the KB as it has the wires you need to tap off for speakers /remote on/off etc:-

http://www.********.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=43&t=133879

Do you remember where/how to get the panels off mate?

On my A3 I pulled in the wrong places (as I didn't know where the clips were) and ended up damaging some.

 

Do you remember where/how to get the panels off mate?

On my A3 I pulled in the wrong places (as I didn't know where the clips were) and ended up damaging some.

I started towards the back and worked forwards for the sill the lines, the rear panel where the amp is fitted is all explained in the link i posted...

 

Hi,

Can I change the centre speaker? I've just installed an alpine w520 head unit and am very happy with it. However, I would like to improve the sound a bit more. I'm thinking of getting a pair of front 2 way component speakers (probably Focal Polyglass 165 V30). The question is, is it worth changing the rear speakers and the centre speaker? I just keep thinking the sound quality will be affected, if like half of my speakers are good quality ones and the rest are not?

Thanks
Derek

 

The centre speaker is mostly for mid frequencies and sound stage. I doubt if it would make much of a difference changing that one. Let alone the choice of speakers that will actually fit there.

 

Hi,

Can I change the centre speaker? I've just installed an alpine w520 head unit and am very happy with it. However, I would like to improve the sound a bit more. I'm thinking of getting a pair of front 2 way component speakers (probably Focal Polyglass 165 V30). The question is, is it worth changing the rear speakers and the centre speaker? I just keep thinking the sound quality will be affected, if like half of my speakers are good quality ones and the rest are not?

Thanks
Derek

If you are fitting an amp you will only need components (front) and bass (rear)

 

Hi,

Can I change the centre speaker? I've just installed an alpine w520 head unit and am very happy with it. However, I would like to improve the sound a bit more. I'm thinking of getting a pair of front 2 way component speakers (probably Focal Polyglass 165 V30). The question is, is it worth changing the rear speakers and the centre speaker? I just keep thinking the sound quality will be affected, if like half of my speakers are good quality ones and the rest are not?

Thanks
Derek

Welcome to the forum.

I will be doing somethig similar and will be ignoring the middle speaker.

No point changing the speakers to decent ones without getting a decent amp to power them I think. The focals are good but will need a better amp than the J525 unit in the TT (if that's actually an amp, which I understand it is) as it's low power. If you change amp you will lose signal to that middle speaker anyway.

What I am plan to do is install a decent amp, put Hertz speakers in but keep the TT amp there and keep the middle feed in so it powers the middle speaker.

It will just add to the fill a bit more I think. If it's rubbish I'll get rid though.

 

Why's anyone running power 'down one side'... we drive TT's.. the battery is in the boot?

I've got speakers/amps sitting in my lounge ready for part 2 of my install, but been lazy.. and the weather has been crappy.

Here's some info on my sub install, gives you an idea of what needs to/could be done where.
http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/diy ... grade.html

 

Thanks guys for your advice. So what I should do is:
Alpine head unit using RCA preout to an aftermarket amp and connect the front speakers with it?
And then another RCA preout to a mono amp and a sub (since my head unit has three preout)
The question is, should I leave my stock amp in for the rear and centre speakers and if I do, how do I control the sound to make sure more sound comes out of the front instead of the rear?

Thanks
Derek

 

As far as I'm aware the amplifier of the Concert Radio is not used. So the amp in the back does it all. I guess it is a digital sound processor too, enabling Audi to modify the output depending on engine and upholstery. Last but not least, it creates a bit of an delay on the rear speakers making the car sound bigger than it actually is. Perhaps I read that in the PDF, I can't remember.

That's interesting. So what happens if you put a new HU in (or in my case, get someone else to put a new HU in)? Are there other bits in there that the current (poor, and currently broken) Concert HU I have doesn't use, but which would be utilised with a new HU? And would whoever is installing it know that?!

 

Thanks guys for your advice. So what I should do is:
Alpine head unit using RCA preout to an aftermarket amp and connect the front speakers with it?
And then another RCA preout to a mono amp and a sub (since my head unit has three preout)
The question is, should I leave my stock amp in for the rear and centre speakers and if I do, how do I control the sound to make sure more sound comes out of the front instead of the rear?

Thanks
Derek

Derek

I have sent you a PM.

 

As far as I'm aware the amplifier of the Concert Radio is not used. So the amp in the back does it all. I guess it is a digital sound processor too, enabling Audi to modify the output depending on engine and upholstery. Last but not least, it creates a bit of an delay on the rear speakers making the car sound bigger than it actually is. Perhaps I read that in the PDF, I can't remember.

That's interesting. So what happens if you put a new HU in (or in my case, get someone else to put a new HU in)? Are there other bits in there that the current (poor, and currently broken) Concert HU I have doesn't use, but which would be utilised with a new HU? And would whoever is installing it know that?!

Hard to tell. I'd think as long as the new HU is connected to the DSP in the rear on line level all should be OK. But I also thought changing my licence plate lamps with LED lights would be a simple swap. It wasn't. Sometimes all the Audi electronic gadgetry is just too much for its own and our good.

 

Why's anyone running power 'down one side'... we drive TT's.. the battery is in the boot?

I've got speakers/amps sitting in my lounge ready for part 2 of my install, but been lazy.. and the weather has been crappy.

Here's some info on my sub install, gives you an idea of what needs to/could be done where.
http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/diy ... grade.html

I've just read that post, thats very nice work there !

 

I've just read that post, thats very nice work there !

Heh cheers.. it'd all be done now if I had a double garage, but rain + cold + working in the driveway... meh.

 

On the tweeter you'll see that a cheap electrolytic capacitor (in my case, none Bose, 6.8 micro Farad) is used as a crossover filter. From an Hi-Fi perspective that is utter rubbish. Electrolytic capacitors kill the sparkling that should come with the high frequencies. Putting in a high end capacitor would be a waste of money, it's a car after all. And it wouldn't fit either. So the quick and cheap solution is to create a bypass for the higher frequencies by adding a Wima MKS foil capacitor, parallel to the electrolytic one:

TT-driver.... I understand a little re electronics, surely if in parallel to the inferior capacitor then the inferior cap is still creating the issues as before.... how by adding this way does the WIMA improve this?

 

I'm not a total expert on this matter either, so I'll try to explain in a way as I understand it. Subject matter experts may word it all much more adequate. Anyway here goes:

The electrolytics in an electrolytic capacitor are on the slow side. This is bad news for high frequencies as they are 'fast'. And the high frequencies have to go through the capacitor. By providing an alternative route (the Wima capacitor) that is better in handling 'fast' signals, the higher frequencies can find their way to the speaker better. So effectively the bypassing capacitor lowers the resistance for the higher frequencies. The result is a more detailed and sparkling sound.

So would it be better replacing the electrolytic capacitor as a whole? Yes it would. But it comes with a price tag and more importantly a sizing issue. Look at the size of the electrolytic capacitor. It's 6.8 micro Farad big. The Wima is only 0.33 micro Farad big and already has almost the same size. A Wima capacitor with 6.8 micro Farad capacity could have the size of a 35mm negative film container. Try fitting that into your dashboard. Given the fact that a car is a noisy place, the tweeter isn't top notch and that there isn't space for proper capacitors the Wima add on is a price worthy compromise. And especially in case of acoustic music I can clearly hear the difference.

 

Finally Done !!!!!! Here's a pic.

 

Hallo,I need your help too ! I have an Audi tt 8J MK2 Coupe 2007,200HP,147KW.
I have recently buyed a new Bose Sound System,my surprise was that my car has not wiring for Amplifier in the trunk,also no wiring for Subwoofer at the left side at panel and no conectitions harness,my question is what can I do now ,where can I find those cable and harness ?
Thanks!