[OUTTEA]

The Rev counter on the climate control, C27, reaches about 130 while the OBDII interface shows 0. I don't recognize the sound of the fuel pump, but smell plenty of fuel after plenty of cranking.
Thanks for the response!

 

[OUTTEA]

Hello Hoggy,
The dashpod rev counter moves to just below 500 while cranking. The OBDII shows 0 revs while cranking. The climate control, C28 (*corrected from C27) goes up to about 140. Other realtime data on OBDII shows ok data; Throttle position fluctuates and coolant temperature is equivalent to my garage temperature.
I was also experiencing a momentary drop in power when accelerating between 3000 and 4000 wth throttle about 3/4 way down.
I wonder if the OBDII is no reading correctly on the revs or if the dash and climate control and dash pod use a different input.
Thanks again outdoor stevie and Hoggy.

 

[OUTTEA]

Stevie,
I had the fuel filter replaced quite a while ago, about 70,000 miles. I have 190,000 miles on this one. I do smell lots of fuel after trying to crank a couple times. I get no spark at all.... I think the blue tooth OBDII scanner might not be working correctly. Going to get an Autel wired one today.
Thanks!!!
Ed

 

[OUTTEA]

UPDATE:
The new Autel wired diagnostics scanner does report about 230 revs while cranking and not starting. The blue tooth did not report revs. I still smell fuel after about 3 long tries to start. Put car on 2 amp trickle charge until I can work on it again. Will look into a fuel filter replacement anyway, beside smelling fuel. Now that I spent all my extra money on diagnostic tools, I have to wait a few days before buying the new fuel filter. [smiley=bigcry.gif]
Anything else that this could be and not throw a code? Ignition? Mass Air???
Thanks,
Ed

 

[OUTTEA]

Folks,
New fuel filter put in. Still does not start.
"Crank but not start" condition persists.
One thing that I had done recently, was many vacuum hoses were brittle and leaking. Had them replaced in the shop.
Ran great for 2 weeks. Had slight hesitations sometimes between 3,000 and 4,000 rpm with throttle down past 3/4 of the way. Then suddenly one morning about to drive to work, just sputtered briefly and since then not even a hint of a spark happening.
My OBDII's, both of them, show no codes, show rpm is ok at about 230 while cranking. I replaced the cam position sensor. I also replaced the spark plugs.

Any more ideas and also how to test the ignition system?

thank you very much,
Edward

 

[OUTTEA]

Hoggy,

I did check fuses 10,32,34 & 43. They are listed as:
10 - 10A - S-Contact (don't know what S-contact means)
32 - 10A - Engine timing: petrol
34 - 10A - Engine timing: petrol
43 - 10A - Engine timing: petrol

I also checked #28 - 20A Fuel pump
29 - 15A - engine timing: petrol
37 - 20A - engine timing: petrol
all are OK!
I'm alone so doing the spark check will have to wait.
I'm very curious about the J271 No. 2 relay.
I did some research and believe I found this relay. I am not sure how to test it or which of the two relays it is.
They are located in a small plastic box under the hood (bonnet for you?) I took a pic and attached. They are numbered 100 black and 428 gray. Are one of these the J271 No. 2 relay????
The reading I did indicates this could be the problem.
thanks Hoggy for taking your time to reply and read.
Edward

 

[OUTTEA]

Hoggy,

The corroded wires on the ECM. Would that be the connections under the windshield wiper where I think the ECM is tucked away at?

I'll be working on this a bit more on Friday and Saturday. Really miss driving my little OUTTEA.

thanks all for all the ideas etc. so far!

 

[OUTTEA]

Hi, if I might chip in here,the two relays shown in your pic the left hand one marked 100 is the SAI pump relay and the right hand one is the j271. oddly the Bentley manual confirms this but shows the relays in the opposite position :?: hope that helps

Hi, As above.
You will need another pair of hands but you should hear/feel relay pull in as Ign switched on.
There is also the recent problem of corroded wires at ECU causing a no start prob, when everything appears O.K.
Hoggy.

I rigged up a test [see pic] for spark. There is no spark. Notice the driver extension in the plug hole. It has the old spark plug slightly screwed in. One of the cranks, I did get what seemed like one cylinder that fired. I have the new J271 relay in place also. We don't have much corrosion issues here in the desert, but I will look into finding the ECU and checking the wires.
thoughts?
thanks!!!
Ed

 

[OUTTEA]

Hi, if I might chip in here,the two relays shown in your pic the left hand one marked 100 is the SAI pump relay and the right hand one is the j271. oddly the Bentley manual confirms this but shows the relays in the opposite position :?: hope that helps

Hi, As above.
You will need another pair of hands but you should hear/feel relay pull in as Ign switched on.
There is also the recent problem of corroded wires at ECU causing a no start prob, when everything appears O.K.
Hoggy.

I rigged up a test [see pic] for spark. There is no spark. Notice the driver extension in the plug hole. It has the old spark plug slightly screwed in. One of the cranks, I did get what seemed like one cylinder that fired. I have the new J271 relay in place also. We don't have much corrosion issues here in the desert, but I will look into finding the ECU and checking the wires.
thoughts?
thanks!!!
Ed

Got down into the ECM area to check for corrosion on connectors. Ran out of time tonight.
There is a bracket of some sort on the connector on the right that I have not seen in videos I found. Not sure how to get it out of the way so I can pull the plug on the right. I have not pulled the plug [longer one] on the left yet.
The plastic tubes connecting the washer fluid broke off on the panel that I had to remove once the wiper arms came off. I think I can rig those tubes up, but what a pain in the arse. LOL See pics of the ECU for comments.
Thanks!
Ed

 

[OUTTEA]

Hello Folks,
Any ideas how to disconnect those big cables from the ECU to check for corrosion?
thanks!
Ed

 

[OUTTEA]

Ok Folks,
Got to spend a little more time on this situation:
I was able to check the condition of one of two connectors on the ECU (Computer). Really clean on the larger one inside. No sign of corrosion. The other seems to be factory sealed in the way the bracket in integrated. Appears I would have to split some metal welds to re-seat the other connector for inspection.
I was checking the fuseable links [see pic] and noticed that the middle cable has seriously oxidized inside the crimp on fitting. I found some description that show this fuse is for the cooling fan/control module.
Any more hints tips would be appreciated.
thanks,
Ed

 

[OUTTEA]

Hoggy,

The corroded wires on the ECM. Would that be the connections under the windshield wiper where I think the ECM is tucked away at?

I'll be working on this a bit more on Friday and Saturday. Really miss driving my little OUTTEA.

thanks all for all the ideas etc. so far!

Hi, Yes, under the wipers, there have been at least 2 occasions when covering has been stripped back they have found corroded broken cables & the relay J271 has also been another cause.
Hoggy.

Hoggy,

The connector that I was able to pull has a plastic housing covering what appears to be a printed circuit board that has various cables going into it for the connector. Is this the area where you mention "covering has been stripped back"? It does look a bit dirty inside of the cover, but I did not remove it entirely as of yet.

Thanks,
Ed

 

[OUTTEA]

Stevie,

Thanks for the reply on this!
I had been using a blue tooth OBDII and a wired one, neither of which would show any errors. I used a different app [OBD Car Doctor Pro] for the blue tooth and saw the P0321 error in the pending codes. I have not replaced the crankshaft sensor because I would see about 230 reading on the climate control and the RPM on the dash would move a little. I did replace the cam shaft sense [easy one to do] already. I have yet to see any RPM on the OBD tools. So now I am wondering which ghost in the machine is exciting the RPM data. LOL!
Could be another week until I replace the crank sensor and examine ECU cables, but of course, more feedback is always welcomed!
Cheers,
Ed

 

[OUTTEA]

Hi, can't really offer anything other than to keep on trying. It's a pain trying to find a fault. But you will get there in the end. Usually something small

thanks! I'm a computer engineer working as a software engineer. Painful and yes, it is usually something small

 

[OUTTEA]

Did you try popping your timing belt cover off and make sure the belt looks good?

Thanks! Yes I did in order to replace the cam shaft sensor. Looks to be in great shape yet. I think I have about 50,000 miles on it.

 

[OUTTEA]

Here is the latest folks.
I replaced the crankshaft sensor and no change
I kinds suspected that I would not see a change since I do see the RPM on the dash moving while trying to start.
That was a serious pain to replace and would have been easier with the engine and intake manifold removed.
Back a weekend or two ago, I did the recommended inspection of the ECU wiring. When I put it back together, I have been getting a brief firing, perhaps on a couple cylinders for about 1/2 second. When before I would get not even a pop and just the smell of fuel.
I do here the relay for the fuel system clicking.
Before I had the vacuum hoses replaced, at times I would get this brief firing condition a few times and then I would get it started.

Thoughts?
thanks!!!

 

[OUTTEA]

Folks,
Worked another 5 hours on the situation today. Still no luck but more info to digest.
I pull the mass airflow (MAF) sensor and cleaned it. Was really filthy. See pic.
I put the MAF back in and it fired right up for about 2 to 3 seconds and still won't keep running.
I keep get a momentary start but dies.
The other thing I did was just to check the full pressure to the rail and the return pressure.
All I had to do with the supply line was almost remove it and had lots of fuel pressure that would spray. I only slight moved the hose off the metal fitting and was like a spray can. Sorry, I don't have a fancy in line gauge and my OBD somehow does not read fuel pressure.
My check on the return line was interesting. Nothing comes out of it. I put a tube to a collection bottle and nothing while I am trying to start it.
I think my fuel pump must be doing something in order to pressurize the rail, but don't know what to think about the absence of return pressure.

thoughts???
thanks very much!
Ed "who is dying to drive his TT again"

 

[OUTTEA]

I assume you have checked each coil pack in turn for a spark and not just the one coil as pictured ?

Interesting how a MAF clean got it started for a few seconds? Perhaps by cleaning the maf you disturbed a bad connection somewhere, or the ecu told it to add more fuel?.

If you had it running for a few seconds, you must be getting close to the cause of the problem.

Pukmeister,
thanks very much for pitching in.
I checked only one coil pack for a spark. But at this time, I do get a momentary start, so the spark plugs seem to be working. After the MAF got cleaned, it ran for 3 seconds and sounded good before it died. So I think the coils are working when they are told to do so.
I am wondering about the fuel pressure regulator, fuel pump and the injectors. I loosened the line from the fuel tank and seemed to be under good pressure. It would spray across the engine. I don't have a pressure gauge, but this seems to indicate the fuel pump must be doing something.
It will now just fire maybe twice a cylinder and then die. It is acting like it is running out of gas, but I just haven't figured this out yet.
thank you sir or ma'am
Edward

 

[OUTTEA]

Edward, perhaps you have a partially blocked fuel filter that cant keep up with flow demand, or maybe even some water in the fuel from a leaking filler cap? Pressure regulator also sounds quite possible.

It does sound fuel related if it runs and dies.

Let us know what it is when you sort it. Good luck.

Adam

Adam,
Thanks for the reply! I did replace the fuel filter. Wish I could have set my car on its side to do that! I live in the desert here, very dry and keep in the garage, so very little chance of a leaking filler cap.
One experiment I did was to disconnect the return line from the fuel pressure regulator and the crank it. Nothing came out of the line. Not sure what to make of that. I figure with pressure in the rail, then the fuel injectors should be able to let fuel in.
Back about 2 months ago, I had most of the vacuum lines replaced because lots were cracked and broken. It ran good for 2 weeks, but I did notice a drop in power when accelerating with greater than 3/4 throttle between 3200 to 4200 rpm.
Then one morning, just a momentary start, less than a second.

So far I replaced ECU relay, replaced fuel filter, replaced CAM sensor, replaced Crank sensor, cleaned MAF, checked for corroded wires at ECU large cable hook up and checked all the fuses.

I may have to study how the fuel regulator works to see about the test results from no return flow and perhaps get a fuel pressure gauge hooked up.

all the thoughts help!

Thanks,
Edward