[OUTTEA]

Ok Folks,
Got to spend a little more time on this situation:
I was able to check the condition of one of two connectors on the ECU (Computer). Really clean on the larger one inside. No sign of corrosion. The other seems to be factory sealed in the way the bracket in integrated. Appears I would have to split some metal welds to re-seat the other connector for inspection.
I was checking the fuseable links [see pic] and noticed that the middle cable has seriously oxidized inside the crimp on fitting. I found some description that show this fuse is for the cooling fan/control module.
Any more hints tips would be appreciated.
thanks,
Ed

 

[OUTTEA]

Hoggy,

The corroded wires on the ECM. Would that be the connections under the windshield wiper where I think the ECM is tucked away at?

I'll be working on this a bit more on Friday and Saturday. Really miss driving my little OUTTEA.

thanks all for all the ideas etc. so far!

Hi, Yes, under the wipers, there have been at least 2 occasions when covering has been stripped back they have found corroded broken cables & the relay J271 has also been another cause.
Hoggy.

Hoggy,

The connector that I was able to pull has a plastic housing covering what appears to be a printed circuit board that has various cables going into it for the connector. Is this the area where you mention "covering has been stripped back"? It does look a bit dirty inside of the cover, but I did not remove it entirely as of yet.

Thanks,
Ed

 

[outdoor stevie]

There has been the odd issue in the past with the cable going to the ECU, you need to strip the covering tape from the cable to examine the wires inside the cable as far down the cable as you can as the moisture gets in under the tape and rots the wire away over a period of time so gently cut and peel it away if one of the wires is rotten it will be fragile and may already be broken which is giving you the issue.

Stevie

 

[OUTTEA]

Stevie,

Thanks for the reply on this!
I had been using a blue tooth OBDII and a wired one, neither of which would show any errors. I used a different app [OBD Car Doctor Pro] for the blue tooth and saw the P0321 error in the pending codes. I have not replaced the crankshaft sensor because I would see about 230 reading on the climate control and the RPM on the dash would move a little. I did replace the cam shaft sense [easy one to do] already. I have yet to see any RPM on the OBD tools. So now I am wondering which ghost in the machine is exciting the RPM data. LOL!
Could be another week until I replace the crank sensor and examine ECU cables, but of course, more feedback is always welcomed!
Cheers,
Ed

 

[black9146]

Hi, can't really offer anything other than to keep on trying. It's a pain trying to find a fault. But you will get there in the end. Usually something small

 

[RQuattro88]

Did you try popping your timing belt cover off and make sure the belt looks good?

 

[OUTTEA]

Hi, can't really offer anything other than to keep on trying. It's a pain trying to find a fault. But you will get there in the end. Usually something small

thanks! I'm a computer engineer working as a software engineer. Painful and yes, it is usually something small

 

[OUTTEA]

Did you try popping your timing belt cover off and make sure the belt looks good?

Thanks! Yes I did in order to replace the cam shaft sensor. Looks to be in great shape yet. I think I have about 50,000 miles on it.

 

[OUTTEA]

Here is the latest folks.
I replaced the crankshaft sensor and no change
I kinds suspected that I would not see a change since I do see the RPM on the dash moving while trying to start.
That was a serious pain to replace and would have been easier with the engine and intake manifold removed.
Back a weekend or two ago, I did the recommended inspection of the ECU wiring. When I put it back together, I have been getting a brief firing, perhaps on a couple cylinders for about 1/2 second. When before I would get not even a pop and just the smell of fuel.
I do here the relay for the fuel system clicking.
Before I had the vacuum hoses replaced, at times I would get this brief firing condition a few times and then I would get it started.

Thoughts?
thanks!!!

 

[OUTTEA]

Folks,
Worked another 5 hours on the situation today. Still no luck but more info to digest.
I pull the mass airflow (MAF) sensor and cleaned it. Was really filthy. See pic.
I put the MAF back in and it fired right up for about 2 to 3 seconds and still won't keep running.
I keep get a momentary start but dies.
The other thing I did was just to check the full pressure to the rail and the return pressure.
All I had to do with the supply line was almost remove it and had lots of fuel pressure that would spray. I only slight moved the hose off the metal fitting and was like a spray can. Sorry, I don't have a fancy in line gauge and my OBD somehow does not read fuel pressure.
My check on the return line was interesting. Nothing comes out of it. I put a tube to a collection bottle and nothing while I am trying to start it.
I think my fuel pump must be doing something in order to pressurize the rail, but don't know what to think about the absence of return pressure.

thoughts???
thanks very much!
Ed "who is dying to drive his TT again"

 

[Pukmeister]

I assume you have checked each coil pack in turn for a spark and not just the one coil as pictured ?

Interesting how a MAF clean got it started for a few seconds? Perhaps by cleaning the maf you disturbed a bad connection somewhere, or the ecu told it to add more fuel?.

If you had it running for a few seconds, you must be getting close to the cause of the problem.

 

[OUTTEA]

I assume you have checked each coil pack in turn for a spark and not just the one coil as pictured ?

Interesting how a MAF clean got it started for a few seconds? Perhaps by cleaning the maf you disturbed a bad connection somewhere, or the ecu told it to add more fuel?.

If you had it running for a few seconds, you must be getting close to the cause of the problem.

Pukmeister,
thanks very much for pitching in.
I checked only one coil pack for a spark. But at this time, I do get a momentary start, so the spark plugs seem to be working. After the MAF got cleaned, it ran for 3 seconds and sounded good before it died. So I think the coils are working when they are told to do so.
I am wondering about the fuel pressure regulator, fuel pump and the injectors. I loosened the line from the fuel tank and seemed to be under good pressure. It would spray across the engine. I don't have a pressure gauge, but this seems to indicate the fuel pump must be doing something.
It will now just fire maybe twice a cylinder and then die. It is acting like it is running out of gas, but I just haven't figured this out yet.
thank you sir or ma'am
Edward

 

[Pukmeister]

Edward, perhaps you have a partially blocked fuel filter that cant keep up with flow demand, or maybe even some water in the fuel from a leaking filler cap? Pressure regulator also sounds quite possible.

It does sound fuel related if it runs and dies.

Let us know what it is when you sort it. Good luck.

Adam

 

[OUTTEA]

Edward, perhaps you have a partially blocked fuel filter that cant keep up with flow demand, or maybe even some water in the fuel from a leaking filler cap? Pressure regulator also sounds quite possible.

It does sound fuel related if it runs and dies.

Let us know what it is when you sort it. Good luck.

Adam

Adam,
Thanks for the reply! I did replace the fuel filter. Wish I could have set my car on its side to do that! I live in the desert here, very dry and keep in the garage, so very little chance of a leaking filler cap.
One experiment I did was to disconnect the return line from the fuel pressure regulator and the crank it. Nothing came out of the line. Not sure what to make of that. I figure with pressure in the rail, then the fuel injectors should be able to let fuel in.
Back about 2 months ago, I had most of the vacuum lines replaced because lots were cracked and broken. It ran good for 2 weeks, but I did notice a drop in power when accelerating with greater than 3/4 throttle between 3200 to 4200 rpm.
Then one morning, just a momentary start, less than a second.

So far I replaced ECU relay, replaced fuel filter, replaced CAM sensor, replaced Crank sensor, cleaned MAF, checked for corroded wires at ECU large cable hook up and checked all the fuses.

I may have to study how the fuel regulator works to see about the test results from no return flow and perhaps get a fuel pressure gauge hooked up.

all the thoughts help!

Thanks,
Edward

 

[Pukmeister]

If all other diagnostic efforts fail, is there any way of putting injectors into jam jars and getting an assistant cranking over to see how fuel is delivered ? I'm wondering if the fuel rail pressure is getting through the injectors but can't think why the fuel spill rail isn't returning any excess petrol. Just trying to think outside the box, I think you need to prove/disprove the fuel delivery from the injectors.

Obviously avoid sparks and ignition sources/naked flames. You dont want a torched car.

 

[OUTTEA]

If all other diagnostic efforts fail, is there any way of putting injectors into jam jars and getting an assistant cranking over to see how fuel is delivered ? I'm wondering if the fuel rail pressure is getting through the injectors but can't think why the fuel spill rail isn't returning any excess petrol. Just trying to think outside the box.

Obviously avoid sparks and ignition sources/naked flames. You dont want a torched car.

I have heard about using jars for the fuel, but need to see an example how to set it up.
My thought is what is the proper pressure to make the fuel injectors and the regulator work correctly? Meaning, is my pump just weak?

thanks!
Edward

 

[Pukmeister]

This is the part where the guys with turbo tuning experience can help, sorry but (as a V6 owner with no experience) I'm all out of ideas.

 

[OUTTEA]

This is the part where the guys with turbo tuning experience can help, sorry but (as a V6 owner with no experience) I'm all out of ideas.

Thanks for the words!
This one will be for the books when finally solved!

 

[outdoor stevie]

Some pages from the Bentley manuel here as a resource it's well worth getting have a look and see if it helps!

Stevie

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[OUTTEA]

Some pages from the Bentley manuel here as a resource it's well worth getting have a look and see if it helps!

Stevie

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

WOW! This is good stuff! I'll be going over this in detail and see what I can figure out.
I'll get back with status after I get more time on my car [OUTTEA}
Thanks so very much!!!
Ed