1. Several Again, you can source service kits off ebay, eg, FEBI oil change set transmission oil filter automatic transmission DSG 6-speed DQ250 VW AUDI | eBay
2. Requires to be filled using special tool, and oil level set at the correct (internal) temperature.

There should be no need to do any sort of reset.

Different car, same gearbox - How to change the oil on a DSG6 (DQ250) gearbox

edit - this set has a filler tube, Hydraulic filter set + hose DSG transmission transmission service for VW Audi DQ250 | eBay same seller has different filter brand options listed.

 

1) according to elsawin, you need 5.7 (it means you need 1 liter bottle x6)
2) yes, you need VCDS or any other tool capable to monitor the DSG oil temp, because the oil levelling must be done with the oil temp in the 35/45 celsius window (lower temp=overfill/higher temp=underfill). Additionally, before levelling you need to cycle the gearbox by staying minimum 3 sec in each gear knob position (in order to fill the actuators, I guess)

 

Aha ok thanks kevin and shtu!
As long as I don't have to recalibrate anything. Yes the VCDS or any scan tool is needed for the temp monitor. That part is not an issue.

I will make sure to buy everything now via links!

Cheers!

 

Having done this job like four times already on DQ250s, I will give just some quick advice as you've already got lots of threads on DIY/How-tos, etc. on the intarwebs. Here's another one for you, btw:

How to DIY DSG transmission fluid change on VW TDI or Audi TDI

How to DIY change DSG transmission fluid and VAS6262 tool service on VW Jetta TDI

www.myturbodiesel.com

Firstly, get a transmission pump with the proper fitting...or some kind of kit that fills by pumping from the bottom. Trying to "top fill" is silly, IMO. Takes too much time and if you plan on keeping the car long term (where you'd be doing this job more than once), might as well get a pump. Also going from the top means you'll want to poke holes in the bottles so the fluid can flow faster but then you can't reuse those bottles to take the old oil for disposal. This is not a hug deal if you have some other container to pour into but personally I'm usually using the new containers to put the old oil back into.

Secondly...overfill it. I don't mean go nuts and put like 8L in there or anything like that, but worry more about underfilling than overfilling. The "correct" method is that you have to install the snorkel and pump fluid in, until you've pumped a full 5L. Then with it at temperature and running you pull the fill line and let it drain to the level of the snorkel. However if you do this, if you've done the "science experiment method" (where you measure what you drained out) you'll probably find that the net of what you put in was less than the car had originally. The actual amount in the gearbox will likely be more than 4.5L but less than 5L, if you measure what you drain out. But, then you have to account for what the filter soaks, plus you also have to have the car level to do this and getting a car 100% level is easier said than done for a DIYer--for example is the surface you're working on level? Are you able to lift the whole car? Etc.

My best advice here is just overfill it, pump in all 5L, cap it and call it a day. This will usually require cracking the 6th bottle when you're using a pump because a lot of pumps don't "scavenge" all the way to the bottom. My Assenmacher pump for example, it really can't pump the last half litre or so in its container since the level is too low for the pump to pick up.

Again having done this job multiple times and having to later jack the car back up and pump more fluid back in a few days later...I've learned the easy way to do this is just "overfill it". Pump in a full 5L, maybe even a couple hundred ml more, and call it a day. Gearbox works absolutely fine being a little overfilled, but being a little underfilled...you're probably going to notice it's not shifting exactly how it should.

 

Apologize, but I would prefer to comply whit what Elsawin (Audi shop manual) dictates, in particular:

• refill with 5.7 litres; if you put just 5 litres, you will not overfill the gearbox (probably the contrary)
• after having refilled, cycle the gearbox (all knob position for at least 3 sec, back and forth)
• do the levelling with the oil between the 35/45 c range (reason already explained)

regarding the refilling, using a pump will surely speedup the process, but if you don't have the pump (like in my case), the manual refilling from top (primary method suggested by Elsawin) takes no more than 15 minutes

 

Thanks TT’s revenge for that detailed how to!

One question though guys.

Does Audi TT come with magnetised drain plug for DSG oil pan (can collect metal shavings)?

if not maybe I should look in to buying one

 

magnetised drain plug for DSG oil pan (can collect metal shavings)

Not on a DSG box it won't, there's an internal level tube that means the drain plug isn't immersed in the oil.

 

no, std plug

 

Not specifically related to the DSG box but a general comment. I once read that before changing the oil on anything don't go straight to the drain plug, first loosen the fill plug. People logically start by opening the drain plug and are then left completely stuffed if they then find the fill plug is seized or they don't have the correct socket or whatever. So in other words don't drain the old oil until you are 100% sure you can refill with the new oil. Sound advice I thought.