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Discussion starter · #22 ·
Thank you Swissjet pilot.

I've been at it an hour now and getting no where fast.

I have a fair amount of experience with a chemistry equipment and pump priming.

I'll fabricate something in the engineering lab tomorrow and post some pics once I get It working.

Once again, thanks for your help and your quick responses.
 
Have you looked through the Workshop Manual on the convertible top? You can find it in the Knowledge Base along with a number of others. Look under Section 1 - Body & Interior. Link below -


General Body Repairs, Exterior (Convertible Top) - RG 50 55 57 61 63 64 66 - A005TT00220

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@ Big rex 2 - Based on this illustration from the Workshop Manual, can you point out item (2). The Hall Sensor has already been identified (1), however I can't see how (2) is arranged or what's on the end of the cable. Also, can you please show how (2) is fastened to the frame. Cheers!

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Discussion starter · #25 ·
Hi Swissjetpilot,

2 is held on by a t20 torx also, unlike 1 which needs only a few turns to release this is fully screwed into the frame.

It is accessible through a hole on the opposite side of the hinge mechanism, when the hood is up.

I tried this on my spare hood (off the car)

I'll take a pic later.

Can I post short video clips on here?

Cheers
 
I contacted a couple of distributors here in Germany, including Conrad which is probably the largest electronics distributor, and none of them can get this part which is produced by TE Connectivity. See more on that here in this post about testing the Hall Sensor. I suspect they only sell it to OEMs, so it's not available to the general public.

However there is a repair kit for the Audi A5 which looks remarkably similar, so out of curiosity I stopped by Audi and ordered one Part Nr. 8F0 998 350 for 50,94-Euro. I'll post what it looks like when it arrives next week. It should look something like this. However, since this is for the A5, the rivets are redundant are are not required for the TT.

UPDATE - The Hall Sensor arrived today. Looks exactly as shown below. Additional pictures (link here). The cable length is 36cm.

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Based on what we know and the photos from Big rex 2 it would seem to me the steps for replacing the F202 Hall Switch would go something like this -

Parts:

• Audi Repair Hall Sensor (Audi A5) PN: 8F0 998 350
• 2-Wire Micro Clamp Connector (x1)​

Tools:

• Torx T20 bit​
• Small wire cutters​
• Flexible Magnetic pick-up tool (in case you drop one of the screws)​
• Dual 20/22 AWG Cable (0.2-0.5mm²) clamping cable connector (see image below)​
• Loctite® Threadlocker Blue 242®​
• Nylon pry-bars to assist with interior panel removal​

Procedure:

1.) Open and stow the convertible top.​
2.) Note - to provide better access to the working area of the Frame, it may be advisable to remove the interior panels behind the seat and below the roll bar.​
3.) Release the ball-arm connector from the Roof Flap and snap into place under the Roof Flap. The Roof Flap will default to the vertical (up) position. If needed for additional working space, the entire Roof Flap assembly can be removed.​
4.) Carefully insert a towel into the area under the Frame and Hall Sensor. This is to catch the screws or your tools should you accidentally drop them.​
5.) Use a T20 Torx bit and unscrew the Hall Sensor retaining screw until the Hall Sensor can be removed from the slot in the Frame.​
6.) Use a T20 Torx bit and unscrew the Harness Cable Clamp retaining screw to release the cable clamp from the Frame. This will provide you with some additional slack in the cable and make the next steps a bit easier. Note - Do not remove the cable clamp from the harness.​
7.) Using a pair of small wire cutters, cut both wires as close as possible to the old Hall Sensor. The old Hall Sensor can be discarded.​
8.) Carefully trim back about 1" of the harness so you can access both Hall Sensor wires for the next steps.​
9.) Using the 2-Wire Micro Clamp Connector, secure both wires from the harness to one side of the connector. Note - the wire insulation on the brown and black wires does not need to be stripped back. Follow the manufacturers' instructions (shown below) and be sure the wires are fully inserted before clamping the connector.​
10.) Secure both wires from the new Hall Sensor into the 2-Wire Micro Clamp Connector. Be sure you have black to black and brown to brown. Note - the wires on the replacement Hall Sensor are longer than needed. Either cut them to the appropriate length before adding the connector, or simply loop the wires and secure them with a small cable tie.​
11.) Reposition the Cable Connector and secure the T20 screw.​
12.) Position the Hall Sensor into the slot in the Frame and secure the T20 screw. Note - apply a very small dab of Loctite® Threadlocker Blue 242 to the threads.​
At this point, it should be possible to close the top automatically. If the top fails to operate check for faults and use VCDS to run the convertible top initialization (link here).
13.) Lower the Roof Flap and reconnect the ball-arm connector to the Roof Flap Servo and reinstall the interior panels.​

Given the limited space where the Hall Sensor is located, these dual-wire clamping connectors would be an alternative solution to splicing or soldering the connections together. Be sure to get the connector designed for 20/22 AWG Cable (0.2-0.5mm²). These are available from Amazon and other resellers.

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Locations of the Hall Sensor (1) and Harness Clamp (2) T20 Torx screws shown from the back of the Frame.
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@ Big Rex 2 -

If you would be so kind, can you please check your Messages?

I have requested some additional photos from you for the proposed repair. From those additional images, I can put together a more accurate repair guide based on the instructions listed above.

Cheers!
 
Hi
Just completed this repair, without removing the entire roof. I used the part number for the A5 convertible roof repair as it was 1/3rd of the cost of the TT Roadster part. This caused a high level of consternation from my parts supplier...... They were adamant that the part was different. It is. I've enclosed a picture for those of you that fancy a go at spotting the difference.

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They were adamant that the part was different. It is.
And what is the difference between the A5 part and the TT part...?

Do you have a side-by-side comparison of the two...?

Which one did you replace, the F171 or the F202...?

How did you go about replacing it...?
 
The A5 part comes with pop rivets. The TT harness is held in place by small M5 torx head screws. I assume the A5 is held in with rivets.
I replaced the F202 and it was relatively easy after removing the main securing bolts (on both sides) and lifting the frame clear of the body and supporting with a strap.
 
Ah, okay...yes, they are mounted differently, but the sensor itself is the same.

You didn't happen to photograph the work did you?

How did you connect it...? Did you use the recommended connector or something else...?
 
I wasn't suggesting the sensor was the same. The part is described as a repair kit. Whilst the Audi TT part is described as an actual harness, hence the ridiculous price.

Yes, I did take some photos and no, I didn't use the suggested connectors. As this is a hall effect sensor, a change in the impedance of the circuit is not desirable. In my opinion, a soldered joint is far more reliable, no risk of an impedance change and takes up less room. There was plenty of room to get in with a heat gun.
 
Okay, so soldering is the better way to go. If you could post some pictures that would be great. The Hall Sensors are generally pretty reliable, but we have had reports of them failing from time to time. For the guys in the UK, there's a repair shop that can do it for a reasonable price and his workmanship seems to be pretty good. So for anyone considering this as a DIY, any additional information you can provide would be a welcome addition to the Forum.

I replaced the F202 and it was relatively easy after removing the main securing bolts (on both sides) and lifting the frame clear of the body and supporting with a strap.
I would really appreciate you posting photos of exactly how this was done. :)(y)
 
Hi SJP
Did you have any luck with being able to buy sensors from the manufacturer's distributor?
I see in the catalogue picture you posted, where the full harness is shown, there are a number of sensors. I'm fairly sure the F171 sensor is the one I've circled and is slightly different from the F202 sensor.

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