There are a number of possible causes for the spoiler to fail so I've posted some common links on the topic in hopes one or more of them will point you in the right direction to get it sorted. Spoiler failures go all the way back to 2006, so it's a fairly well known issue for the Mk2. If you need to to remove the entire unit, scroll down to Section 8 for a DIY.
Index of topics you will find in this post -
![RoadsterSpoiler.JPG]( "RoadsterSpoiler.JPG")
As always, many thanks and credit due to all who contributed this information.
Operational Overview -
Automatic Mode
The rear spoiler is extended automatically when a speed of 120 kph is exceeded. When the vehicle speed drops below the 80 kph speed threshold again, the rear spoiler is retracted automatically.
Manual Mode
The rear spoiler can be extended up to a speed of 120 kph by flicking the adjustable rear spoiler switch E127. The rear spoiler can also be retracted and extended within a road range between 20 kph and 120 kph by flicking the adjustable rear spoiler switch E127. The rear spoiler cannot be retracted at speeds of 120 kph or higher.
When driving at speeds of between 0 kph and 20 kph, the switch must be kept pressed while the rear spoiler is retracting. If the switch is released while the rear spoiler is retracting, the rear spoiler will stop in its momentary position. Actuating the switch again will cause the rear spoiler to extend again. The adjustable rear spoiler warning lamp K242 integrated in switch E127 comes on whenever the rear spoiler is extended manually. As soon as the rear spoiler is retracted again or the system switches to Automatic mode because the vehicle is travelling faster than 120 kph, the warning lamp goes out again.
Before you get too far into the fault investigation, start by checking the condition of your battery. Too many older Mk2s' still have their factory battery and as we all know, they don't last forever. When the battery voltage drops below <10.5V the spoiler will automatically deploy to alert the driver of the low battery condition.
Generally, the weakest mechanical points in the spoiler mechanism are the hinges, thus the TSB, as they tend to corrode due to lack of lubrication. This is very common for "city" cars which never get up to speed and automatically deploy the spoiler on a regular basis. Another potential cause is not raising the spoiler and drying out the area underneath it after a car wash leading to corrosion in the hinge. Also, during the winter months, any moisture that may accumulate may freeze in, or around, the hinges and the spoiler itself. Attempting to operate a frozen spoiler, either from corrosion or low temperatures, may result in the motor popping the Comfort Control Module (CCM) fuse.
Be sure you lubricate the linkage as part of your annual maintenance. See the thread below for more information.
![SpoilerHingeCorrosion.JPG]( "SpoilerHingeCorrosion.JPG")
Couple of good places for detailed information on the spoiler are SSP 382 and workshop manual General Body Repairs, Exterior (A005TT00220). SSP382 is especially helpful as it explains how the spoilers operates and under what conditions. Because of the file size, I've only attached the two pages from the workshop manual section which cover the spoiler removal. Additionally, I've linked the TSB (Technical Service Bulletin) for sorting out a stuck hinge.
One quick note - if you haven't driven the vehicle in a while and find the spoiler is in the "up" position, that's a tell tale sign your battery is below 10.5-Volts.
1. Older posts on the topic that may be helpful -
1.1 Early Failures going back to 2006
https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... 19&t=72739
https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... 19&t=73475
1.2 Spoiler Stuck Up
Rear spoiler stuck in 'up' position
1.3 Spoiler Intermittent Operation
https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... &t=1918253
1.4 Broken Wiring
https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... &t=1722242
1.5 Spoiler is Non-Functional
https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... &t=1887343
1.6 Sticking Rear Spoiler
https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... &t=1871103
1.7 Sticking Rear Spoiler - Adhesive Glue from Missing Pad
Spoiler Problem......
1.8 Repainting the Rear Spoiler
https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... 9&t=707522
1.9 Rear Spoiler Warning light
https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... &t=1698666
1.10 Replace/Repair Spoiler Limit F135/F136 Switch
1.11 Waterproofing External Rear Spoiler Tray
2. Handy PDF Downloads
A005TT00220 - General Body Repairs, Exterior - Spoiler.pdf
SSP 382 Audi TT Coupé ‘07 - Electrical & Infotainment.pdf
Servicing the Rear Spoiler Drive Unit.pdf
Audi TT Mk2 8J Fuse Panels and Assignments.pdf
TT Mk2 (8J) Spoiler Removal.pdf
You can download the entire workshop manual (and others) that covers the spoiler removal from the Forum Knowledge Base.
FAQ - Audi TT (8J) Workshop Manuals & Self Study Programs
General Body Repairs, Exterior (A005TT00220)
https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... &t=1833829
3. Trouble Shooting with a VCDS & Understanding Fault Codes -
Fault codes reported against the spoiler can include one or more of the following -
For the 3134 fault, test the motor and contact switch.
For the 03133 Fault, the spoiler will automatically deploy as a the 'fail-safe' position when a fault is detected. This ensures that your spoiler is active regardless of speed. Physically disconnect the switch E127 and clear the fault. Do you still get a short to ground error? If so, ohm out the switch. If not, suspect a defective Comfort System Central Control Module or wire damage between E127 and the module. (FNChaos)
Note - these fault codes are for a pre-facelift car where they would be reported under Address-46 Comfort Module. A face-lift car doesn't have that module as all the comfort modules have been integrated into the Address-09 Central Electrics module.
We have an extensive collection of Workshop Manuals which includes Wiring Diagrams & Component Locations - A005TT20021. You can find them here. And for a short PDF version with just Fuses & Relays click here.
![VCDSFaultCodeReferences.JPG]( "VCDSFaultCodeReferences.JPG")
![ComfortSystemCentralControl Module.jpg]( "ComfortSystemCentralControl Module.jpg")
4. Trouble Shooting without a VCDS -
SSP 382 Audi TT Coupé '07 - Electrical & Infotainment:
In the case of the following faults, the rear spoiler is extended for safety reasons:
![Spoiler Mechanism.JPG]( "Spoiler Mechanism.JPG")
![SpoilerMotor.JPG]( "SpoilerMotor.JPG")
5. Microswitches -
The microswitches do not directly control the current to the motor, they signal to the ECU that the travel limit has been reached and the ECU turns off the motor drive circuit. (With the car stationary):
● If the closed switch is active, pressing the button causes the motor to drive in the raise direction until the open microswitch closes.
● If the open switch is active, pressing the button causes the motor to drive in the lower direction until the closed microswitch closes.
● If both microswitches are closed then this must be a fault condition so the ECU drives the spoiler to the open position for a preset time and illuminates the fault lamp.
● If neither microswitch is closed then I think it drives the motor in the last known direction until the appropriate microswitch closes.
The other detectable fault condition is taking too long to trip a microswitch. If the end of travel isn't detected within a given time, the ECU will shut off power to the motor (to stop overheating the motor) and turn the warning light on.
Check the microswitches by probing on the motor connector. The microswitch wires are brown/blue and green/blue (unfortunately the diagram doesn't say which it which - it calls them 1 & 2 - how stupid!). If you measure resistance between each wire and brown wire then you should see a short when the switch is made. Put the spoiler in a mid position and actuate each microswitch with a small screwdriver (You should hear an audible click).
If the microswitches check out and the motor moves if you put 12-V on the red/blue & black/blue wires and the motor moves (reverse polarity for the opposite direction of course) then the motor end of things is OK and you problem must be upstream.
Given that you can't make the spoiler move in either direction then suspect a power supply problem; e.g. Comfort Control Module or Comfort Control Module fuse.
Although the F135/F136 switches are not available from Audi, they can be replaced with the following.
• Omron Electronics part #D2HWC233MRBYOMR - SWITCH SNAP SPST-NO 100MA 125V(link)
More information on how to replace them can be found here.
6. Possible Causes of Failure -
1. The CCM fuse has blown
2. Break in the wiring or terminal connectors inside the connector itself.
3. The power control circuitry in the ECU is faulty
4. The mechanism (hinge) was stiff due to lack of use, this puts extra strain on the motor which can pop the CCM fuse
5. Thermal protection will kick in after few cycles to prevent overheating the motor
6. Corrosion or heavy carbon buildup on the motor commutator
7. Broken power supply wires where the core of the wire enters the spade connector block on the spoiler motor
8. Ice has frozen the hinges or spoiler mechanism. Attempted operation results in a blown fuse (see 4)
9. If it works automatically, but not with the manual switch, it's either the switch or the Comfort Control Module.
7. Lubrication -
While WD-40 is good for some things, it's a terrible lubricant and even worse as a corrosion inhibitor. You're better off with a good penetrating oil to free up the hinges, then use the Audi recommended lubricant or an equivalent. Never use WD-40 to clean electrical components; e.g. mass airflow sensor, motors, etc.
If you don't want to pay Audi's exorbitant price for their "special lubricant" (G 052 172 A1) as recommended in the TSB, you can use DuPont Krytox GPL-105 which is the same thing and half the price.
See the link further down in this post. (Link here)
8. Access & Removal of the Spoiler -
Here's a PDF which provides some very good information, and pictures, for removal of the entire spoiler assembly from a Coupe along with some advice on installing the fixed spoiler and recoding.
View attachment TT Mk2 Spolier Removal.pdf
Here's a DIY for the Roadster to remove the plastic deck panel in order to access the spoiler assembly -
https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... &t=1599538
Good post on leaking seals around the spoiler and includes the repair kit for the seals -
https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... 3&start=15
For American Roadsters, before you can remove the deck lid cover, you will need to disconnect the Trunk Escape Handle as described in this post -
![Mk2Spoiler.JPG]( "Mk2Spoiler.JPG")
![SpoilerExposed.JPG]( "SpoilerExposed.JPG")
9. Retrofit & Coding -
As stated in SSP382, the spoiler always deploys if the voltage drops below <10.5V. Pulling the fuse in the rear fuse panel (behind the right fuel filler side trunk panel) has the same effect. If needed, you can recode it to Transport Mode so it stays down when the battery is disconnected -
Ross-Tech: VCDS Tour: Transport Mode
"Note When the Transport Mode is activated, the Automatic mode is active and the "Manual mode" is deactivated. It is not possible to extend and retract the rear spoiler by actuating the adjustable rear spoiler switch when Transport mode is set."
When installing a fixed spoiler, you'll need to deactivate the electrical spoiler. To re-code it so it no longer functions, it's just a matter of un-ticking a box. This can be done with either Ross-Tech VCDS or OBDeleven -
Here's a good YouTube video on how to deactivate the spoiler with OBDeleven -
![OBDelevenSpoilerDeactivate.JPG]( "OBDelevenSpoilerDeactivate.JPG")
![PreFaceliftandFaceliftSpoilerVCDSCode.JPG]( "PreFaceliftandFaceliftSpoilerVCDSCode.JPG")
![SpoilerCode.JPG]( "SpoilerCode.JPG")
OBDeleven One-Touch App - As of 4/23/2020 OBDeleven has added a One-Touch App for deactivating the spoiler.
![Screenshot_2020-04-23-11-46-17.jpg]( "Screenshot_2020-04-23-11-46-17.jpg")
Index of topics you will find in this post -
1. Older posts
2. PDF Downloads
3. Trouble Shooting with a VCDS & Related Fault Codes
4. Trouble Shooting without VCDS
5. Microswitches
6. Possible Causes of Failure
7. Lubrication
8. Access & Removal of the Spoiler
9. Retrofit & Coding
10. Spoiler Bumpers
11. Krytox Lubricant
12. Broken Wires between Body and Hatch/Deck
As always, many thanks and credit due to all who contributed this information.
Operational Overview -
Automatic Mode
The rear spoiler is extended automatically when a speed of 120 kph is exceeded. When the vehicle speed drops below the 80 kph speed threshold again, the rear spoiler is retracted automatically.
Manual Mode
The rear spoiler can be extended up to a speed of 120 kph by flicking the adjustable rear spoiler switch E127. The rear spoiler can also be retracted and extended within a road range between 20 kph and 120 kph by flicking the adjustable rear spoiler switch E127. The rear spoiler cannot be retracted at speeds of 120 kph or higher.
When driving at speeds of between 0 kph and 20 kph, the switch must be kept pressed while the rear spoiler is retracting. If the switch is released while the rear spoiler is retracting, the rear spoiler will stop in its momentary position. Actuating the switch again will cause the rear spoiler to extend again. The adjustable rear spoiler warning lamp K242 integrated in switch E127 comes on whenever the rear spoiler is extended manually. As soon as the rear spoiler is retracted again or the system switches to Automatic mode because the vehicle is travelling faster than 120 kph, the warning lamp goes out again.
Before you get too far into the fault investigation, start by checking the condition of your battery. Too many older Mk2s' still have their factory battery and as we all know, they don't last forever. When the battery voltage drops below <10.5V the spoiler will automatically deploy to alert the driver of the low battery condition.
Generally, the weakest mechanical points in the spoiler mechanism are the hinges, thus the TSB, as they tend to corrode due to lack of lubrication. This is very common for "city" cars which never get up to speed and automatically deploy the spoiler on a regular basis. Another potential cause is not raising the spoiler and drying out the area underneath it after a car wash leading to corrosion in the hinge. Also, during the winter months, any moisture that may accumulate may freeze in, or around, the hinges and the spoiler itself. Attempting to operate a frozen spoiler, either from corrosion or low temperatures, may result in the motor popping the Comfort Control Module (CCM) fuse.
Be sure you lubricate the linkage as part of your annual maintenance. See the thread below for more information.
Couple of good places for detailed information on the spoiler are SSP 382 and workshop manual General Body Repairs, Exterior (A005TT00220). SSP382 is especially helpful as it explains how the spoilers operates and under what conditions. Because of the file size, I've only attached the two pages from the workshop manual section which cover the spoiler removal. Additionally, I've linked the TSB (Technical Service Bulletin) for sorting out a stuck hinge.
One quick note - if you haven't driven the vehicle in a while and find the spoiler is in the "up" position, that's a tell tale sign your battery is below 10.5-Volts.
1. Older posts on the topic that may be helpful -
1.1 Early Failures going back to 2006
https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... 19&t=72739
https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... 19&t=73475
1.2 Spoiler Stuck Up
Rear spoiler stuck in 'up' position
1.3 Spoiler Intermittent Operation
https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... &t=1918253
1.4 Broken Wiring
https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... &t=1722242
1.5 Spoiler is Non-Functional
https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... &t=1887343
1.6 Sticking Rear Spoiler
https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... &t=1871103
1.7 Sticking Rear Spoiler - Adhesive Glue from Missing Pad
Spoiler Problem......
1.8 Repainting the Rear Spoiler
https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... 9&t=707522
1.9 Rear Spoiler Warning light
https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... &t=1698666
1.10 Replace/Repair Spoiler Limit F135/F136 Switch
1.11 Waterproofing External Rear Spoiler Tray
2. Handy PDF Downloads
A005TT00220 - General Body Repairs, Exterior - Spoiler.pdf
SSP 382 Audi TT Coupé ‘07 - Electrical & Infotainment.pdf
Servicing the Rear Spoiler Drive Unit.pdf
Audi TT Mk2 8J Fuse Panels and Assignments.pdf
TT Mk2 (8J) Spoiler Removal.pdf
You can download the entire workshop manual (and others) that covers the spoiler removal from the Forum Knowledge Base.
FAQ - Audi TT (8J) Workshop Manuals & Self Study Programs
General Body Repairs, Exterior (A005TT00220)
https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... &t=1833829
3. Trouble Shooting with a VCDS & Understanding Fault Codes -
Fault codes reported against the spoiler can include one or more of the following -
03132 - Limit Switch for Rear Spoiler Movement (F135/F136)
008 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent
03133 - Switch for Rear Spoiler Movement (E127)
007 - Short to Ground
03134 - Rear spoiler motor (V52)
012 - Electrical fault in the electrical system
For the 3134 fault, test the motor and contact switch.
For the 03133 Fault, the spoiler will automatically deploy as a the 'fail-safe' position when a fault is detected. This ensures that your spoiler is active regardless of speed. Physically disconnect the switch E127 and clear the fault. Do you still get a short to ground error? If so, ohm out the switch. If not, suspect a defective Comfort System Central Control Module or wire damage between E127 and the module. (FNChaos)
Note - these fault codes are for a pre-facelift car where they would be reported under Address-46 Comfort Module. A face-lift car doesn't have that module as all the comfort modules have been integrated into the Address-09 Central Electrics module.
We have an extensive collection of Workshop Manuals which includes Wiring Diagrams & Component Locations - A005TT20021. You can find them here. And for a short PDF version with just Fuses & Relays click here.
4. Trouble Shooting without a VCDS -
SSP 382 Audi TT Coupé '07 - Electrical & Infotainment:
In the case of the following faults, the rear spoiler is extended for safety reasons:
● The convenience system central control unit J393 receives no road speed signal
● The convenience system central control unit no longer receives any CAN messages
● Implausible signals to rear spoiler adjustment limit switches 1 and 2 are detected
● The convenience system central control unit is supplied with under-voltage (< 10.5 V)
5. Microswitches -
The microswitches do not directly control the current to the motor, they signal to the ECU that the travel limit has been reached and the ECU turns off the motor drive circuit. (With the car stationary):
● If the closed switch is active, pressing the button causes the motor to drive in the raise direction until the open microswitch closes.
● If the open switch is active, pressing the button causes the motor to drive in the lower direction until the closed microswitch closes.
● If both microswitches are closed then this must be a fault condition so the ECU drives the spoiler to the open position for a preset time and illuminates the fault lamp.
● If neither microswitch is closed then I think it drives the motor in the last known direction until the appropriate microswitch closes.
The other detectable fault condition is taking too long to trip a microswitch. If the end of travel isn't detected within a given time, the ECU will shut off power to the motor (to stop overheating the motor) and turn the warning light on.
Check the microswitches by probing on the motor connector. The microswitch wires are brown/blue and green/blue (unfortunately the diagram doesn't say which it which - it calls them 1 & 2 - how stupid!). If you measure resistance between each wire and brown wire then you should see a short when the switch is made. Put the spoiler in a mid position and actuate each microswitch with a small screwdriver (You should hear an audible click).
If the microswitches check out and the motor moves if you put 12-V on the red/blue & black/blue wires and the motor moves (reverse polarity for the opposite direction of course) then the motor end of things is OK and you problem must be upstream.
Given that you can't make the spoiler move in either direction then suspect a power supply problem; e.g. Comfort Control Module or Comfort Control Module fuse.
Although the F135/F136 switches are not available from Audi, they can be replaced with the following.
• Omron Electronics part #D2HWC233MRBYOMR - SWITCH SNAP SPST-NO 100MA 125V(link)
More information on how to replace them can be found here.
6. Possible Causes of Failure -
1. The CCM fuse has blown
2. Break in the wiring or terminal connectors inside the connector itself.
3. The power control circuitry in the ECU is faulty
4. The mechanism (hinge) was stiff due to lack of use, this puts extra strain on the motor which can pop the CCM fuse
5. Thermal protection will kick in after few cycles to prevent overheating the motor
6. Corrosion or heavy carbon buildup on the motor commutator
7. Broken power supply wires where the core of the wire enters the spade connector block on the spoiler motor
8. Ice has frozen the hinges or spoiler mechanism. Attempted operation results in a blown fuse (see 4)
9. If it works automatically, but not with the manual switch, it's either the switch or the Comfort Control Module.
7. Lubrication -
While WD-40 is good for some things, it's a terrible lubricant and even worse as a corrosion inhibitor. You're better off with a good penetrating oil to free up the hinges, then use the Audi recommended lubricant or an equivalent. Never use WD-40 to clean electrical components; e.g. mass airflow sensor, motors, etc.
If you don't want to pay Audi's exorbitant price for their "special lubricant" (G 052 172 A1) as recommended in the TSB, you can use DuPont Krytox GPL-105 which is the same thing and half the price.
See the link further down in this post. (Link here)
8. Access & Removal of the Spoiler -
Here's a PDF which provides some very good information, and pictures, for removal of the entire spoiler assembly from a Coupe along with some advice on installing the fixed spoiler and recoding.
View attachment TT Mk2 Spolier Removal.pdf
Here's a DIY for the Roadster to remove the plastic deck panel in order to access the spoiler assembly -
https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... &t=1599538
Good post on leaking seals around the spoiler and includes the repair kit for the seals -
https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... 3&start=15
For American Roadsters, before you can remove the deck lid cover, you will need to disconnect the Trunk Escape Handle as described in this post -
9. Retrofit & Coding -
As stated in SSP382, the spoiler always deploys if the voltage drops below <10.5V. Pulling the fuse in the rear fuse panel (behind the right fuel filler side trunk panel) has the same effect. If needed, you can recode it to Transport Mode so it stays down when the battery is disconnected -
Ross-Tech: VCDS Tour: Transport Mode
"Note When the Transport Mode is activated, the Automatic mode is active and the "Manual mode" is deactivated. It is not possible to extend and retract the rear spoiler by actuating the adjustable rear spoiler switch when Transport mode is set."
When installing a fixed spoiler, you'll need to deactivate the electrical spoiler. To re-code it so it no longer functions, it's just a matter of un-ticking a box. This can be done with either Ross-Tech VCDS or OBDeleven -
Here's a good YouTube video on how to deactivate the spoiler with OBDeleven -
OBDeleven One-Touch App - As of 4/23/2020 OBDeleven has added a One-Touch App for deactivating the spoiler.
