You definitely need the HPFP upgrade I would say. Without that you are basically using a hobbled/de-rated version of the tune and even then it might not be that safe. You are basically leaving performance on the table and also risk running too lean at times, without it. Upgrading the pump on your own really isn't that difficult BTW. How careful/meticulous you need to be in upgrading it...I'd say that's overstated by the manufactuers. Yes you need to make sure everything is clean, but they almost tell you it needs to be like a cleanroom and has to be done "just so" lol--which it doesn't.

The upgrade by rebuilding with the new piston, is really made out to be more difficult than it is. There's even some guy on YT that upgraded one super haphazardly with an impact gun and doing it outside in the winter on a picnic bench or whatever--no attention to cleanliness at all LOL. While I don't recommend you be that careless about it, you also don't need to get crazy about it either. It's pretty much just take apart, clean everything, reassemble with the new piston, and Bob's your uncle.

The "RS4" return valve OTOH, I wouldn't bother with TBH. It's not really necessary.

Definitely clean the intake if it hasn't been done before or hasn't been done recently.

If you're still wanting more power after the HPFP upgrade and "full"/proper Stage 2 tune, you will have to look into a turbo upgrade like a Frankenturbo. Or of course a TTE420 or GTX2867R, though with these two you will lose low-end output.

 

The "RS4" return valve OTOH, I wouldn't bother with TBH. It's not really necessary.

Sorry to say and I'm certainly not trying to criticise, but this needs to be said... This statement is completely wrong.
If you want to capitalist on the most you can get from the stock KO4 turbo on an EA113 - you need to run the injectors at a higher pressure, to have more fuel at higher boost levels.
Bumping up to the RS4 FPRV is then needed with a cracking pressure of 136 BAR rather than the stock which from the top of my head is maybe 125-128 BAR

If you're still wanting more power after the HPFP upgrade and "full"/proper Stage 2 tune, you will have to look into a turbo upgrade like a Frankenturbo. Or of course a TTE420 or GTX2867R, though with these two you will lose low-end output.

Additionally the way this is worded is incorrect too...
If the 'stage' terms are to be used, as soon as you add a HPFP onto the hardward, you add + - with a HPFP ontop of the mods the OP already has, he'd be getting a 'stage 2+' tune.
Not a full/proper stage 2 - All that is NECESSARY for such would be a downpipe or to have the best from stage 2 - add an intercooler and debatable - an intake (Stock TTS box is decent at stage 2 level)

Certainly not trying to pick apart your statement, simply trying to relay the correct information to the OP and anyone who may read this in future on the forum.

Best places to take/find any EA113 tuning information from, is the TFSI Tuning page on facebook & 2.0 TFSi Tuning Info - R-Tech Performance


To the OP - sounds like you've combined a decent amount of hardware and the preventative maintenance of inlet/injector clean is 100% worth doing.
FYI without a full exhaust and an intercooler you may see lower figures than some other 2+ TFSI's...
But really don't worry about those peak figures, those are just the pub talks - once done you'll see the increase in area under the graph and this along with the drive-ability really will transform the car.
My suggestion would be, change ALL the hardware you want for tuning.
It won't be worth adding parts on after and going back - decide what parts/hardware you want and set the car up as best as you can before making your trip to R-tech.

If you have look in my thread linked below it may be of help, but if you have any questions - just shoot

 

Thanks TT'sRevenge

All makes sense, I've been looking at the TTE420 and does look a lot of bang for the buck, cheaper than I expected but stage 2+ will suffice I'm sure (for now!). I've seen a few videos on the HPFP so might have a go myself.

 

Yeah it's really none too hard to do. You should at least have a vice but even if you don't you can do the impact gun madness like that yahoo in the one video LOL. TBH I reassembled mine with hand tools but I did break the large nut free with a cordless impact to take it apart.

Again I wouldn't advise going at it too haphazardly but as long as you have some isopropyl alcohol handy and a can of compressed air, and a clean towel/rag on your work surface to work on, I think you'll be fine. Only thing that you can mess up here is installing things backwards/upside-down, which seems like it's possible but as long as you pay attention to the pictures/videos carefully you shouldn't have a problem.

I used the Autotech upgrade piston (10-127-100K) kit and worked like a charm--got at a good price at around $450 CAD but of course if you're in UK prices and what company's upgrades are readily available will vary. Installed it prior to being tuned, worked perfectly fine in stock mode and never had even a hint of any fueling issues after applying the tune. I'm IE Stage 2 for reference (they don't have a "+" level it's either the full tune with HPFP or derated version if you don't have the HPFP upgraded). Of course IE recommends you use their HPFP upgrade, but it's significantly more expensive and I don't think it's really any better or at least isn't required for these kind of power levels. The Autotech part is a tried & true, proven product and used by many w/o issue.

As a bit of info, the problem with the factory piston in the HPFP is not that it can't provide the required fueling when tuned, at higher RPM. It actually can. The problem is at midrange RPM, like say between 3000-5000RPM, it can't provide enough volume to keep up.

 

Ruthenium Spark Plug. Not a huge increase in performance but very huge noticeable reduction on engine vibration.