I have a stripped wheel bolt hole, and rather than mess around heli coiling I might aswell get a hub + bearing from eurocar parts (£100ish)..
There is a difference in design between the 2WD and 4WD rear hubs so be sure you get the right one (4wd obviously has splines for a driveshaft)
Well, its a flipping bore (allow for a weekend if on the floor for the hobbyist) without the car in the air but for anyone wanting to do it other than a generaly decent tool set you will need:
*hub puller (3 leg one from halfords £21 on trade)
*access to a portable press however if static you will need:
*a bleeder kit as to get the whole arm off the brake line needs to be undone
*brake wind back tool
Driveshaft end nut off (pre-soak in penetrating oil) with car on the ground - 1.5m jack handle sleeve needed (HUGE torque)
Wheel off.
Caliper off completly
Tap the driveshaft back out (Mines a Quattro 4WD) towards the transfer box so that its loose from the splines.
I used the hub puller now and used the driveshaft end to center to puller against while the puller legs ripped the hub off (obviously the driveshaft wont go back out the hub because of its length).
This should reveal a bearing race being stopped by a big circlip (which you remove before pressing out obviously).
At this point you could use a portable press to push out the old race but it dont have this.
So to get the whole arm off, put penetrating oil on the relevant threads mentioned below and leave for a good while.
Unplug the abs ring sensor at the clip behind the arm.
You will need to remove brake line (as it goes through a locating hole that cannot be removed on arm - could grind off and weld back on but if you have a gunson bleeder kit no need) at the front end of the arm so go round unclipping brake piping gently.
Jacking up the trailing arm with another jack until the tension is relieved from the relevant swivel points (bolted as below) you save some energy and danger monies.
Top and bottom hub arms bolts (18mm x 2 fresh nuts in your bearing kit to replace), plus damper and droplink bolt off (nut in your bearing kit) all at the hub end.
Unplug the handbrake cable (piston will need winding back) and now that the arm is swinging loose push cable through the arm.
Undo the brake line near the front end and once pulled from the locating hole join back up to brake line to stop it bleeding out.
I now pulled 4 x 17mm nuts holding the front end of the arm off.
You now have an arm to take to your press and push the bearing out, clean up and press new bearing.
Refit everything in reverse order not forgetting to bleed the rear caliper and wind the piston back in.
Basically if someone quotes you £300, bite their torso off
Many thanks,
Nick
There is a difference in design between the 2WD and 4WD rear hubs so be sure you get the right one (4wd obviously has splines for a driveshaft)
Well, its a flipping bore (allow for a weekend if on the floor for the hobbyist) without the car in the air but for anyone wanting to do it other than a generaly decent tool set you will need:
*hub puller (3 leg one from halfords £21 on trade)
*access to a portable press however if static you will need:
*a bleeder kit as to get the whole arm off the brake line needs to be undone
*brake wind back tool
Driveshaft end nut off (pre-soak in penetrating oil) with car on the ground - 1.5m jack handle sleeve needed (HUGE torque)
Wheel off.
Caliper off completly
Tap the driveshaft back out (Mines a Quattro 4WD) towards the transfer box so that its loose from the splines.
I used the hub puller now and used the driveshaft end to center to puller against while the puller legs ripped the hub off (obviously the driveshaft wont go back out the hub because of its length).
This should reveal a bearing race being stopped by a big circlip (which you remove before pressing out obviously).
At this point you could use a portable press to push out the old race but it dont have this.
So to get the whole arm off, put penetrating oil on the relevant threads mentioned below and leave for a good while.
Unplug the abs ring sensor at the clip behind the arm.
You will need to remove brake line (as it goes through a locating hole that cannot be removed on arm - could grind off and weld back on but if you have a gunson bleeder kit no need) at the front end of the arm so go round unclipping brake piping gently.
Jacking up the trailing arm with another jack until the tension is relieved from the relevant swivel points (bolted as below) you save some energy and danger monies.
Top and bottom hub arms bolts (18mm x 2 fresh nuts in your bearing kit to replace), plus damper and droplink bolt off (nut in your bearing kit) all at the hub end.
Unplug the handbrake cable (piston will need winding back) and now that the arm is swinging loose push cable through the arm.
Undo the brake line near the front end and once pulled from the locating hole join back up to brake line to stop it bleeding out.
I now pulled 4 x 17mm nuts holding the front end of the arm off.
You now have an arm to take to your press and push the bearing out, clean up and press new bearing.
Refit everything in reverse order not forgetting to bleed the rear caliper and wind the piston back in.
Basically if someone quotes you £300, bite their torso off
Many thanks,
Nick
