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Help with key fob - Not working after trying everything

50K views 22 replies 13 participants last post by  blzckhat  
#1 ·
Hello, everyone!

First of all, thank you for the information available for us, lurkers, who need help for everything related to our beloved Audi TT.

I've tried to program my fob key with every method that I found here and on the net but with no luck. One thing I noticed during the process is that the lights never blinked. I now wonder if this can be related to a faulty instrumental cluster or if it has nothing to do with. I'm just looking for all the possible options to find the problem.

If not, what am I doing wrong? I replaced the batteries on the remote but still nothing. I used the valvet key method too but no luck either. The remote opens the door manually but it won't work remotely.

Audi TT 2002, any possible idea?

Thank you in advance.
 
#2 ·
Hi, I assume you have tried C/L resync
Press lock or unlock on Fob & within 1 minute lock or unlock using key in door, repeat more than once.
If that doesn't work press lock or unlock twice before using key in door.
Make sure passenger door unlocked before resyncing, never affected mine but someone today said it worked if he unlocked pass door first.
Hoggy. :D
 
#3 ·
i got this stupid thing working after a year of scratching my head

try this way first - open the car manually, turn on the car ASAP (not starting engine), and then press a button on the fob. Did that work? If not... continue reading

--------

use your valet and turn the key to turn the car on (not engine start)

get out the car and using your remote you want to get working, go outside & lock the car MANUALLY from the boot

- now walk back over to driver's side door. press OPEN

- indicator should flash

- (assuming this key was in position #1) wait 6 seconds and press OPEN again

- car should honk to confirm the key is programmed back in
 
#15 ·
i got this stupid thing working after a year of scratching my head

try this way first - open the car manually, turn on the car ASAP (not starting engine), and then press a button on the fob. Did that work? If not... continue reading

--------

use your valet and turn the key to turn the car on (not engine start)

get out the car and using your remote you want to get working, go outside & lock the car MANUALLY from the boot

- now walk back over to driver's side door. press OPEN

- indicator should flash

- (assuming this key was in position #1) wait 6 seconds and press OPEN again

- car should honk to confirm the key is programmed back in
This worked perfectly for me, after changing the battery in two fobs and not realising why it was not working, I searched and found this forum.

Thank you.
 
#6 ·
It sounds like you registered it to program in to slot #2

By pressing lock (blinkers or horn sounds) and then pressing unlock(blinkers or horn sounds) as you did. You are asking the car to program that key in to position two.

Your final step is so wait 6 seconds and then press "open" to confirm the slot you want it in (you can program a total of 4 keys)

You then turn off the car. Get out. Test the buttons.

But because you've probably stopped the proceeds you're gunna have to start again LOL
 
#9 ·
Hoggy said:
Hi ianpgonzaga, How do you lock the car manually from the boot ?? :?
Hoggy. :D
hahaha oh yeah thinking about my S3 [smiley=bomb.gif]

Remote unit for central locking operation, coding and erasing

Memory addresses, coding

On vehicles with remote-control central locking, every new or non encoded remote unit must first be re-coded for the central locking control module.
- Switch ignition on; leave key in ignition.
- Mechanically lock vehicle at left front door, using second key.
- On remote unit, press "Open" button once. A short horn signal will sound.

Note:
• The "Open" button is pressed once for programming the first, or a single, remote unit.
• When programming additional remote units for the second, third or fourth memory addresses, press the "Open" button two, three or four times, in one-second intervals.
• Example: press the "Open" button once, wait 1 second, then press once again to program the second remote unit.

- After 6 seconds, press "Open" button once to activate the coding process.

The remote unit will now be coded, and it can be used to unlock the central locking system.

- Switch ignition off.

Note:
• The key must be removed from ignition before the remote unit can be used to lock the vehicle.
• The coding process can be repeated up to 4 times for additional remote units. In between each remote unit coding, the ignition must be switched off.

Does that help???
 
#13 ·
Hi, I know this is an older thread but still trying my luck here.
About 10 days ago my Audi TT (2001) wouldn't start. After a few days when I had some I started to look into it and the situation was even worse. It no longer made any starting noise ( no startmotor, just a klunk). Anyway, I made an appointment with a local mechanic. I thought I would use some jumpers to start the car but now the key fob no longer unlocks the car! And I don't have any mechanical lock on the doors. I replaced the batteries in the key fob but still no difference. Any ideas?
 
#17 ·
I’m hoping this thread will still be seen by someone! I bought an Audi TT Quattro Mk1 2003 1.8T (180bhp) 2 days ago as I was desperate for a car and only had pathetic money! This obviously has a few things that need addressing and some TLC but it’s running so far, despite the very high mileage. I have a few issues I need to ask about but I will stick to one at a time and the issue relative to this thread.

The guy I bought it from had done some work to it due to mileage, he replaced the water pump, cam belt and rocker gasket or something and did a full service etc. there are tons of receipts from the owner before and a hell of a lot of work has been done. Anyway, during the guy working on the car just before I bought it from him, the battery was disconnected, I know he was telling the truth as he had to pop the radio code in for the stereo right in front of me. This information may not be relevant to my issue but I thought it was worth a mention, just in case. So, the issue is that the only key I received with the car (key fob) was completely dead so naturally, I assumed that the battery had gone so swapped it out. Since, I have done so many different things I’ve found on here and online in general for single key processes and I still can’t get it to work (not saying I have done all of them, or done them right so any advice is appreciated!).

So, what will usually happen is I manually unlock the door but then as soon as I make movement inside the car or sit in the seat, the indicator lights and hazard button will start flashing (no alarm sounds though) so I have to stop this by popping the key in the ignition and switching to on position and then everything is fine. I can only assume that this is the interior alarm sensor being set off as the chip isn’t being read to immobilise the car until I put the key in the ignition. Unfortunately, the button to toggle this on and off (in between the boot catch button and the fuel cap release button) is no longer there must have popped out (I haven’t tried jabbing my finger or something in there to see if it still works yet).

So yeah, I only have this one key fob, it has the Audi rings on the back and does look quite old and worn on the buttons, I assume it’s the original. Can someone please help me figure out how to get my fob working again please? I’ve tried putting the key in ignition and switching to on position, locking the drivers door (only way to do this is by pressing the central locking button to lock all doors from inside the car (button with a red key on the console behind the handbreak) and then holding the unlock button on the key fob while still in ignition and in same on position (until there is supposed to be a little red light that blinks on the fob which I don’t get but I can’t even see where a little light could be on the fob) so I hold it a few seconds like the video because I saw in the comments that someone had tried it and didn’t get the blinky Red light on their key fob either but it had worked. Anyway, I then pull the key out of the ignition and it’s supposed to work! I try pressing the buttons on the fob but nothing!

Please help!!!?
 
#18 ·
First welcome and congrats on your purchase.

First get a second key cut. It will only cost a few quid as long as you don’t go to the entire expense of getting an immobiliser chip paired with car. Although this key won’t start the car it will totally save your bacon if you lock the working key in the car. Also significantly easier to get replacement keys cut if you lose your original.

You appear to have already tried the resync process…
1. Press unlock on fob
2. Unlock manually with key in drivers door
3. Press unlock on fob again.

Otherwise, with your newly acquired spare key, try the pairing procedure...
1. Original key in ignition and turned to on position
2. Spare key in drivers door and lock car
3. Press the unlock button on the original key (either wind down the drivers window so you can reach in, or separate the two key halves so you can leave the key part in ignition and take the fob part outside with you). Indicators should blink.
4. Wait 6 seconds, press unlock button again and indicators should blink again. Key pairing is complete.

If above don’t work then we can assume perhaps faulty fob. Take to an auto locksmith and they will be able to test it for you. If you ask nicely they might/should do this for free for you (or ask for it as a favour when you have your spare key cut).

Alarm going off when entering car without first unlocking/disabling alarm with fob is normal. No alarm sound is normal if the alarm unit behind rear quarter panel has suffered catastrophic battery leakage and damage. Not a hard job to replace although part is not that cheap. Sometimes original may be Repairable if battery leakage damage is not too great.

Edit: No red blinky lights on any MK1 TT fobs.
 
#19 ·
Omg thank you so much for taking the time to write this!! I tried again with no luck and last night I was reading the owners manual which said the battery needed to be plus side down… (shiny flat side with the plus symbol) which was opposite to every video I’d watched on it and opposite to how the original batteries were in (the last person had 1 CR2025 and one thin CR2016 on top of each other instead of a CR2032 - I bought one Duracell CR2032) and they were both shiny flat side up too! I figured they had run out so I’d been doing the various re-sync procedures with them in, with spares of the same that I had found in remotes around the house, and then with the new CR2032 I bought especially for it and nothing was working. I just went out and tried again with your instructions in my hand in case I had messed anything up the other times and nothing… I walked away annoyed and sad and thought, screw it, it’s obviously broken like some other things I suspect (esp light has never turned off since I got it) and so I figured I had bought a shed and I need to accept my loss as all I had to my name was £900 and I can’t really expect anything more for my money! Then I remembered what I read in the manual last night that I figured must be a misprint or I wasn’t taking the info in properly because everything I had seen online showed shiny flat side up with the plus on it… I scratched my head and thought, everything I know about batteries tells me the plus side is usually the side with a ridge around causing some kind of raised button in various sizes and extremes, so if that’s so, and it’s telling me that the side that has the plus symbol must be facing down in the manual… what if I ignore what I saw online and what I think about batteries on the whole, and how the batteries were in the remote to start with, as it wasn’t working then, and I take the plus sign on the shiny flat side of the battery at face value and do what the manual say, which would be plus symbol down rather than up…. Thought, one last try can’t hurt…. So I click it in, pop it back together and go and try the re-sync one last time… I didn’t notice anything so pressed the lock button one last time as I walked away and I HEARD THE BLOODY LOCKS GO!!!! I stopped in my tracks and thought NOOOOOOOO… turned around and started pressing them like mad and they bloody work!!! Faultlessly!!!

Now I feel extremely girly and stupid!! While also very happy and accomplished!!! Days of obsessing over it and it works!! I’m elated!

Thank you again for being so lovely and writing the above!!
 
#23 ·
So guys, same situation here. But, but, but, but. No one wants to reprogram the keys. Some car eclectic tells me to find another CCM with pair of keys. But the bad guy in my situation was actually both key fobs that I've bout with car. I've bout repaired one and this guy was seen by car in the seconds. btw I've used VCDS for repro. So, if your ccm answering for diagnostic but key fobs cannot be reprogrammed, change key fobs.