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How To: Audi TT Mk2 Reverse Camera Installation

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173K views 721 replies 79 participants last post by  nitroracer  
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
This is really a very straight forward DIY project and doesn't require a lot of technical skill, so don't be put off just because the wiring diagram looks a bit complicated. As long as you have the right equipment (RNS-E with RFSL), hardware (Reverse Camera, Video Media Module, 12-V relay, etc.) access to VCDS for re-coding and some basic wire splicing skills, you should be able to do this job in about 4-5 hours depending on your level of skill and experience with these kind of projects.
ReverseCameraRHD.JPG

NOTE - Since this post is getting a bit long in the tooth some of the links may no longer work. So you may have to do a bit of on-line research for some of the parts which are suggested for this mod.

👉 VERY IMPORTANT!!!

The first thing you need to do is to verify your RNS-E unit is capable of accepting a reverse signal. To do this, you'll need to pull out the RNS-E so you can check the label on the top of the unit.

1.) Be sure to check the ID tag on the top of your RNS-E unit (see pictures)

a.) If you have "C: Ext Control Connector: 2. RFSL" the screen will auto-switch to the camera view when the RNS-E is turned on and reverse gear is selected. (RFSL is German for RĂĽckfahrsignalleitung or Reversing Signal Cable)

b.) If you have "C: Ext Control Connector: 2. N.C." your unit is NOT capable of auto-switching. In this case, you will have manually select the [Media] / [CD/TV] button on the front panel in order to see the camera view.

Check for RFSL.JPG

PullVentToSeeRFSL.JPG


c.) If you have an RNS-E that is not the original factory unit for your car (e.g. second hand from eBay or some other re-seller, etc.) there's a possibility that it does not have RFSL even if the label says it does. There have been reports of 'fake labels' and the RNS-E unit doesn't actually have the RFSL circuitry. Please see the link below for more information. If your unit is suspect, check the trouble shooting section on Page 33 for how to test if it the unit has RFSL capability or not.

🔥 Warning to anyone buying RNS-E on eBay
https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... &t=1283849

2.) This project requires access to a VCDS in order to code the RNS-E to recognize the reverse camera. However, if you don't have one, you can always have a local garage or a friend who has a VCDS do the code change for you. It doesn't matter if you have it done before or after you've installed the camera hardware, just as long as it's done as noted here in the VCDS Controller. See Page 2.

3.) If you have a pre or early 2007 model, your license plate lights may have screw-holes as shown below. Unfortunately the camera recommended for this project will not fit into this opening. Also, this particular camera is getting more difficult to find and can be stupid expensive. So you may want to go with a different camera. See page 40.
Image


NOTE - There are a lot of cameras on the market listed as applicable for the TT, but few actually fit the TT license plate light opening as well as the Candid version. Look carefully at the picture below of the factory TT (8J) license plate light and the Candid reverse camera. The overall dimensions are exactly the same and it even takes the OEM lamp. If you buy a camera that's not like this one, it may not fit properly or the design may result in reduced light to the licence plate. Here's an open box review of the Zemex camera I ordered from Amazon which is exactly like the Candid camera.

đź“• Audi TT Mk2 (8J) Reverse Camera - Open Box Review
https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... &t=1575921

REVERSING CAMERA WITH OPS

For anyone who wants to tackle this project, there's a great post by MT-VS for installing an OPS (Optical Parking System) and reverse camera from an Audi R8 system, which includes a reversing camera with moving guidelines as well as reverse parking and parallel parking modes.

đź“• Reversing camera with OPS
https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... &t=1921981

đź“• How to: Retrofit front parking sensors with OPS
https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... &hilit=OPS

OPSReverseCamera.JPG

PARTS LIST & QUICK REFERENCE LINKS -

Here's a parts list and wiring diagram for the reverse camera installation project by ReTTro fit. For anyone using the KunSet multimedia adapter, please see post on page 18 of this thread which includes a modified wiring diagram and KunSet source (- thanks Poder!)

1.) Media Adapter

a.)
Adapter Universe ® Multimedia Interface Adaptor IMA RNS-E Symphony 3 TV Video Cable
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Adapter-Univers ... ideo+Cable

b.) Ampire video converter module -
https://www.ampire.de/RL-RNSE.htm?Sessi ... SE&p=15087
Note - this unit is more "plug-and-play" and does not require splicing into the Block D connector.

2.) RNS-E Removal Keys (x4)
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Audi-Headunit-R ... s+%28x4%29

3.) Male-to-male Audio Video AV Extension Cable

a.)
Standard RCA extension -
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Heavy-Phono-Ext ... +extension

b.) RCA Male Jack Adapters - useful for Roadsters or where routing the RCA Jack is difficult -
Sourcingmap® Adapter Lautsprecher-RCA-Kabel auf AV Cinch-Stecker, 10 Stück : Amazon.de: Elektronik & Foto

4.) 10 meters, 2-core black/red, 12-V Extension Wire
Used in conjunction with the RCA Male Jack Adapters for easier routing of the RCA connector - http://www.amazon.co.uk/METERS-BLACK-EX ... s=12V+wire

5.) Wire connectors

a.)
3M Splice Connectors - industry standard.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/SPLICE-SCOTCH-C ... connectors

b.) T-Tap Connectors - For small gauge wires, as found with those in this project, the "T-Tap" connectors are really easy to use and provide a solid, reliable connection -
(UK) https://www.amazon.co.uk/Wire-Connector ... B07DK6GVL8
(USA) https://www.amazon.com/Alightings-Conne ... B017FT5G4S

c.) Heat Shrink Self-Solder Butt Splice Connectors
https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... &t=1846569

6.) Fused On/Off 4-Pin Relay 12V 30A Normally Open Contacts
Recommended to provide "clean" non-PWM 12-V power signal to the camera. Note - If you can't find a relay with the fuse built-in, you can use a standard 4-Pin relay and add an 30A in-line fuse between the battery and relay (Pin-30).

a.) Relay -
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Fused-4-Pin-Rel ... B00I9E8WRM

b.) In-line fuse -
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Cocar-Electron ... B01J1NAISU

7.) Repair wire for Quadlock - Audi P/N 000 979 034E
Audi factory part only

8.) Cloth electrical tape
Identical to OEM tape found in wiring harnesses. Much better than the plastic electrical tape -
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Cloth-Tape-TES ... B01554NGG0

9.) Reverse Camera (may also advertised for Audi A4L, A1, Q5) Model Number: 86-852, Brand: CANDID

NOTE
(27/03/2021) If the links below are no longer good, try a Google search for "Reverse Camera for Audi A4L, A1, Q5" or "Candid Model Number 86-852" -

Note that the camera shown in this write up will replace the LEFT license plate light. If your camera arrives with the camera on the left side of the assembly, then use it to replace the RIGHT license plate light. The point is to install it so the camera is closest to the vehicle center-line.

10.) Optional - VCDS/VAGCOM
To order a VCDS check with Ross Tech in the USA - Ross-Tech: Home
For those here in Europe, the Ross Tech HEX-V2 connectors and cables are available on Amazon.de and Amazon.co.uk

https://www.amazon.de/HEX-V2-Ross-Tech- ... =ross+tech
https://www.amazon.co.uk/HEX-v2-Version ... =ross+tech

NOTE - At the time of this writing, it's not known if it's possible to make the required code change with an OBD-2 device; (e.g. OBDeleven, Carista, etc).

11.) Piggy-Back Fuse Accessory Tap
If you need to tap power off the fuse block for the media adapter, here's some information on how to install a piggy-back fuse tap correctly -

đź“• FAQ - Adding a Piggy-Back Fuse Tap & Fuse Locations
https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... &t=1849573

12.) Roadster Wire Routing and Panel Removal
Routing the wires is a bit more of a challenge with a Roadster. You'll need to remove the trunk liner, route the wires through the rubber tube grommet on the left side of the deck lid (page 31), and then run the wires from the trunk, through the bulkhead, under the door sill, up the driver's kick panel and across to the RNS-E.

Every comes out pretty easily. Just be sure to check for broken or missing clips before you re-install the panels.

đź“• How to: Audi TT Mk2 Roadster Trunk Lid Panel Removal
Link here.

đź“• How to: Audi TT Mk2 Roadster Seat Rear Panel Removal
Link here.

đź“• How to: Audi TT Mk2 Roadster Trunk-to-Cabin Wiring Route
Link here.


🤬 TROUBLE SHOOTING GUIDE -

A summary of problems and fixes related to this project can be found here (page 32)
https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... 7#p9025767

For anyone with a RNS-E screen that's starting to look bad because the anti-glare coating is coming off, here's a DIY to solve the problem -

đź“• How to: Audi TT Mk2 (8J) RNS-E Screen Anti-Glare Repair
https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... &t=1777249

🔧🔨 ALTERNATE REVERSE CAMERA OPTIONS -

If you find yourself without an RNS-E or if yours doesn't have RFSL, there are a couple of aftermarket options for a reverse camera. One is a dash mounted version, the other is a mirror kit that fits over the OEM mirror. Both are discussed here -
https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... 7#p9048737

For anyone interested in how to, or how not to, install a reverse camera for an Xtron headunit, here's a post by 'John 949' you may find helpful -
https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... &t=1883329

UPDATE - If the recommended camera is not available, you can retrofit the OEM light assembly with any no-name reverse camera as shown in this new DIY -

đź“• DIY - Retrofit OEM License Plate Light & Reverse Camera
https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... &t=2004707

Camera-09.JPG

If you have access to a 3D printer, I've designed a reverse camera mounting plate similar to the Motormax design. You can read more about it, and download the STL file in this post -

đź“• Mk2 Forum 3D Printing Post - Latest Projects
https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... 9#p9455819

CameraMount.JPG

Capture.JPG

Tail Light Harness, Pin-2, Black with Blue Stripe.JPG


light vs. camera.jpg

GT-0852 size.jpg

RNSSticker.jpg
 
#2 ·
Parts required..........

Firstly you require a media interface for the video signal to be transferred to the rns-e

I used this one ( approx ÂŁ80 )
Image


http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.vi ... 1471722213

Secondly, you need your camera, DOUBLE check fitment as a lot out there are advertised to fit TT but they don't
( I found out the hard way as mine doesn't fit properly so now buying another )
If you notice mine has a slot either side, this is incorrect for a mk2 tt
You need one with the single slot on one side
Image


Some cameras come with a composite lead and a power plug but I'd advise you also source your own to either extend or replace due to nature of the install.

Composite lead, also know as phono or RCA,
A 5mtr one is more than enough but better to be to long
Image


A packet of scotch locks
Image


Some power cable for power from rear light to number plate light ( 3m - 4m ) any low volt twin core cable can be used
Example, 10amp 12v cable
Image


Another single core cable ( 5m ) is required for the switching process, from camera to rns-e ( 5m )
Again, any low volt cable would be suitable

1x repair wire to add to your quadlock loom for the switching process
Image


Basic install........

I'm not going to tell you the best place to run your cables etc etc as some of you will know which panels come off easy etc etc and you'll probably want to run them your own way

So here's basically what has to be done.....

Inner Boot panels off, remove number plate light, connect number plate loom to led loom on camera

Now you need a power feed from your reverse light to the camera
On my car ( 2010 ) my reverse light was blue/black pin 6 on the back of the light and obviously the thick brown for earth
This will provide power to the camera every time you select reverse

Signal / video......
From the camera to the rns-e you need to run the composite lead along with a switch feed ( 12v )

Once you've ran your cables to the stereo you need to join a repair to the end of your 12v switch feed, this needs to then be added to
BLOCK "C"
PIN "2"
This is labeled RFSL on your rns-e, this pin recognises a 12v feed from the reverse light and switches the screen over to the camera

Next you connect the composite lead to the media interface ( yellow plug )

Now to connect the interface to the rns-e, plug in the 32 pin block, your then left with 4 wires, power, Earth, can high and can low
These need to be spliced to your quadlock loom

Power ( +12v ) block "D" pin "15"
Ground ( - ) block "D" pin "12"
Can high = block "D" pin "9"
Can low = block "D" pin "10"

You now need vagcom to code the car
Go into
37 NAVIGATION
10 adaptation
Drop down box
Select reverse cam
Change from 0 to 1
Save

If you've coded correctly and all your powers and canbus connections are correct now press the media button on the rns-e and select source, you should now see the option for "TV"
Select reverse gear and you should now see all your tools from the install scattered all over your drive behind your car ! Lol
Test your unit by selecting radio and put your car in reverse, it should auto switch the screen over

This is a fiddly install due to the cable runs but at ÂŁ80 for a interface and about ÂŁ30 for a camera it's a very cheap diy job
Companies charge over ÂŁ700 for what is basically exactly the same results

Hope you enjoyed it

Here's a few pics of where I ran my cables
In the boot lid, once tested all the cables can be zip tied to the existing loom
Image


The tricky part !!!!!! Going through the rubber gaitor
Image
Image
Image
Image


Once your into the car roof then the hard work is over, I went over my roof and down the left front pillar and behind glovebox
 
#3 ·
this is my new camera i found on the web, it was listed as a new A4 and Q5 please make sure you do your homework when buying a camera as lots of sites list it as fitting a TT but it took me 3 attempts before getting correct fitment
this is offset so allows use of your existing bulb or led and centralizes the picture better
Image
 
#4 ·
heres a view of the label on a RNS-e, showing RFSL on pin 2 block C
Image
 
#5 ·
Image

Image
Image
 
#6 ·
You can use the reverse light feed for power aswell as the switch feed
Or you can power the camera direct from the battery and use the reverse light as switch feed only etc

All depends on how you want the install etc
Also depends on camera voltage requirements as it is common to get flicker on the screen, some have said its down to the canbus but it isn't, it's down to under voltage at the camera
I found the best way to combat that ( only found out by having 3 different cameras )
Was the relay option, that way the camera & the switch on the rns-e is getting maximum voltage

So......
From battery to a 4 pole relay
Image

Then from the reverse light to the relay
This then allows the reverse light feed to switch the relay to allow the direct battery feed to pass through, giving maximum voltage

This isn't necessary but will depend on how picky your camera is as the reverse light doesn't chuck out full 12 volts, in fact it worked better when all the lights were on

Just a heads up mate incase your camera is sensitive to the voltage
 
#7 ·
And a pic of the distance of the first green marker
Image
 
#8 ·
#9 ·
Finally a big thankyou to swissjet for a quality drawing, thank you
 
#12 ·
RS+ or tdi mate, it was never an option for a TT
Have a go yourself, it's only clips and wires

On iPhone using Tapacrap
 
#16 ·
First of all, thank you both for this excellent write up. Very helpful indeed!

I would like to add a bit to what you have written. It may go some way to explain the problems some have with powering their camera. Audi and other newer VAG cars use PWM (Pulse Width Modulation). That means that the power to your reverse light "flicker" on/off or fluctuates. Many reverse cameras will not operate under such conditions and may show black screen or flicker/stripes etc. It is not due to low voltage it is the erratic power due to use of PWM.
http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Duty_cycle

You can check this by trying the camera with ignition on and engine off. It will likely work as normal.
Once you start the engine it will likely operate erratically with a lot of disturbances or not operate at all.

If you use the relay method, the power will effectively be smoothed out by the reaction time of the relay and the reverse light power is only used for switching the relay, not driving the camera.

I don't know if all TTs come with PWM or only some newer. Possibly they all have it.

I would therefore recommend the relay method as your starting point.
 
#17 ·
Has anyone else attempted this Mod since this great write-up was posted?

Had a 2012 q5, now have a 2015 and both have/had the backup camera... It's the only real thing I missed on my 13 tt roadster. I was excited to see that someone had attempted this. But my wiring skills are limited to having replaced speakers on my jeep years ago, and wiring my house.
Now that I think about it, I did wire up a cigarette lighter in the glove box of that jeep for always on power too... So this should be a price of cake... Right?

Main concern is running the wiring in the roadster, as through the ceiling is not an option.
 
#18 ·
Easy in a roadster mate, through the boot, through the rear bulkhead and down the side of the sills

On iPhone using Tapacrap
 
#20 ·
GoldenToque said:
Where's the "boot"? ;-)
The big empty thing behind you that you put your shopping in ! Lol

I think your knackered ! Lol

On iPhone using Tapacrap
 
#23 ·
The term 'boot' apparently dates back to the days of horse drawn transport but the origin of 'trunk' is a bit later.

In the case of the English "boot", the origin is that in the 18th and 19th centuries, the coachman used to sit on a locker where he could store, among other things, his boots. For this reason, this was termed the "boot locker" and after a while an additional compartment situated at the rear of the coach was used, also called for the same reason the "boot" (for short).

As for the American "trunk", well it should suffice to look at all the classic cars designed in the post WWI era, for which trunks were mounted at the rear end.
In this affluent era, cars from manufacturers like Duisenberg, Cord, Buick, Lincoln were all competing for high end customers and these trunks featured many compartments for plates, whiskey flasks and all the paraphernalia needed to go for a picnic. Some cars (mainly coupés, or "roadsters") had special compartments for golf clubs.
 
#24 ·
The term 'bonnet' seems to come from the use of the word to mean a metal cowl or covering such as for a fireplace and perhaps resembling a bonnet (lady's hat tied under the chin) in shape.
In Scotland, bonnet is a man's cap usually brimless although many use the word for any type of hat.

How about other terms?

Dashboard: This term also dates back to horse drawn days and was originally the piece of timber mounted horizontally in front of the coachman specifically to protect him from the mud etc. flying up from the hooves of the horses. The word dash can mean splatter and, of course, a long thin piece of wood is a board.

Wings: The dashboard on carriages/coaches can have extension pieces attached extending out horizontally, to further protect the people on the coach from mud etc. These extension pieces were called wings.

I think I've digressed. Deletion is available on request. :)