I started this repair several days ago. It took three days plus an additional 72 hour for the adhesive to be fully cured. I spent one day on the exterior and two days on the interior repair. My rear glass was separating from the canvas at the lower corners and most of the bottom seam. It had not completely separated which made it much easier as I did not need to reposition the glass within the opening. That would be a severe PITA I believe.
Tools/Products (Total new expenses were under $75) that I used:
Adhesive/sealant (I used 3M Windo-Weld and 3M one step primer. This partially cures in as quick as 3 hours. Working time is about 20 minutes. The primer dries very quickly and has a shelf life of 7 days after opening.)
Rubbing alcohol to remove sealant from fingers and other surfaces as necessary.
Caulk gun
Razor blades
Suction cups and something to spread the hold-down force at seam (I used paint stir-sticks)
Home-made daubers to apply the primer (cotton ball on the end of a piece of wire)
Something to contain a few mls of primer...don't want to contaminate primer by re-dipping into the primer bottle
Window cleaner
Gloves
Something to support the window from the inside (I used 2 cheapo ($0.99) beach balls and pillows).
Some mechanism to support the window from the outside when doing the inside.
My Process:
Clean the glass
Open the top a few inches to reduce the tension at the glass separation
Support the inside of the glass to hold it secure against the canvas
Trial position the exterior seam against the glass to ensure canvas will lay properly
Trial position the suction cups and paint sticks
Clean the interface of old glue. You do not need to clean it of ALL old glue but certainly the big chunks as some residue will help the bond.
Apply One-Step primer to glass AND canvas with a dauber (let sit 15 minutes)
Apply Windo-Weld to the glass or canvas
Press the canvas top to glass
Secure with suction cups and paint sticks
Let cure at least 3 hours but better over night
Remove suction cups and paint sticks
Cut away excess windo-weld and scrape away the excess primer (it is very easy so don't fret about primer schmear on the glass. However, if you get it on your fingers, it will not come off (so I've been told)).
Clean glass with glass cleaner and the let it cure for 48-72 hours to ensure proper bonding before racing down the motorway.
Pics for exterior repair effort>>>>
Before >>>
Windo-weld and primer:
![Image]()
Detached area at right corner. Note old glue residue:
![Image]()
Home made dauber in bowl with dried primer:
![Image]()
During:
![Image]()
![Image]()
![Image]()
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![Image]()
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After:
![Image]()
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After the exterior had cured over night, I started regluing the inside seam. Given the lack of working room, this was a true PITA. Gluing took two days: applying primer and glue to the seam/glass interface followed by the overnight cure; and then applying primer and glue the seam/canvas interface. Also, I found that as I was trying to do a trial fit of the inside seam material against the glass and canvas, the seam material would pucker at the corners. For this reason, I did it in two stages.
Here you see the glue-ooze at the seam-glass interface. The seam-canvas interface looked similar. As when doing the exterior, I first applied the primer, let it dry for 15 minutes, and then applied the glue.
![Image]()
![Image]()
On the following morning, I proceeded to glue the seam to the canvas. This was even more fidley that gluing the seam to the glass. After it had cured overnight, I trimmed the ooze from along the glass with razor blades. Obviously, the ooze at the seam-canvas interface will remain as I don't want to cut the canvas top.
And a pic of the finished product.
![Image]()
I also had to create a method for holding the glass firmly against the canvas while repairing the inside. As I noted before, I used beach balls and pillows on the inside to press the glass against the canvas for the exterior repair. So, my solution for interior repair was this contraption.
![Image]()
In 20-20 hindsight, this worked better than the beachballs/pillows. I should have done this for the exterior.
I'm really happy with the outcome. It looks great and I don't have to worry about leaking water into the cabin.
Summary:
DIY doable
Relatively cheap out of pocket cost considering the cost of a replacement top (here, $2000-$2500 and equivalent to about1500-1800 quid).
PITA but worth it
I believe having the glass still partially attached makes a significant difference in the effort required...don't wait for full detachment. As such, there is no need to reposition the glass in the cavity. Because it is still partially attached, re-alignment of the glass is not an issue. I believe it is best to attempt the repair before the glass detaches completely.
I used the 3M windo-weld because it is an adhesive and sealant. Others would (should) work too.
Also in 20-20 hind sight, it would have been easier to apply the W-W had I used a small craft syringe like these at Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Plastic-Meas...ndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfbXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==
Especially, when doing the interior repair.
Cheers,
bob
Tools/Products (Total new expenses were under $75) that I used:
Adhesive/sealant (I used 3M Windo-Weld and 3M one step primer. This partially cures in as quick as 3 hours. Working time is about 20 minutes. The primer dries very quickly and has a shelf life of 7 days after opening.)
Rubbing alcohol to remove sealant from fingers and other surfaces as necessary.
Caulk gun
Razor blades
Suction cups and something to spread the hold-down force at seam (I used paint stir-sticks)
Home-made daubers to apply the primer (cotton ball on the end of a piece of wire)
Something to contain a few mls of primer...don't want to contaminate primer by re-dipping into the primer bottle
Window cleaner
Gloves
Something to support the window from the inside (I used 2 cheapo ($0.99) beach balls and pillows).
Some mechanism to support the window from the outside when doing the inside.
My Process:
Clean the glass
Open the top a few inches to reduce the tension at the glass separation
Support the inside of the glass to hold it secure against the canvas
Trial position the exterior seam against the glass to ensure canvas will lay properly
Trial position the suction cups and paint sticks
Clean the interface of old glue. You do not need to clean it of ALL old glue but certainly the big chunks as some residue will help the bond.
Apply One-Step primer to glass AND canvas with a dauber (let sit 15 minutes)
Apply Windo-Weld to the glass or canvas
Press the canvas top to glass
Secure with suction cups and paint sticks
Let cure at least 3 hours but better over night
Remove suction cups and paint sticks
Cut away excess windo-weld and scrape away the excess primer (it is very easy so don't fret about primer schmear on the glass. However, if you get it on your fingers, it will not come off (so I've been told)).
Clean glass with glass cleaner and the let it cure for 48-72 hours to ensure proper bonding before racing down the motorway.
Pics for exterior repair effort>>>>
Before >>>
Windo-weld and primer:
Detached area at right corner. Note old glue residue:
Home made dauber in bowl with dried primer:
During:
After:
After the exterior had cured over night, I started regluing the inside seam. Given the lack of working room, this was a true PITA. Gluing took two days: applying primer and glue to the seam/glass interface followed by the overnight cure; and then applying primer and glue the seam/canvas interface. Also, I found that as I was trying to do a trial fit of the inside seam material against the glass and canvas, the seam material would pucker at the corners. For this reason, I did it in two stages.
Here you see the glue-ooze at the seam-glass interface. The seam-canvas interface looked similar. As when doing the exterior, I first applied the primer, let it dry for 15 minutes, and then applied the glue.
On the following morning, I proceeded to glue the seam to the canvas. This was even more fidley that gluing the seam to the glass. After it had cured overnight, I trimmed the ooze from along the glass with razor blades. Obviously, the ooze at the seam-canvas interface will remain as I don't want to cut the canvas top.
And a pic of the finished product.
I also had to create a method for holding the glass firmly against the canvas while repairing the inside. As I noted before, I used beach balls and pillows on the inside to press the glass against the canvas for the exterior repair. So, my solution for interior repair was this contraption.
In 20-20 hindsight, this worked better than the beachballs/pillows. I should have done this for the exterior.
I'm really happy with the outcome. It looks great and I don't have to worry about leaking water into the cabin.
Summary:
DIY doable
Relatively cheap out of pocket cost considering the cost of a replacement top (here, $2000-$2500 and equivalent to about1500-1800 quid).
PITA but worth it
I believe having the glass still partially attached makes a significant difference in the effort required...don't wait for full detachment. As such, there is no need to reposition the glass in the cavity. Because it is still partially attached, re-alignment of the glass is not an issue. I believe it is best to attempt the repair before the glass detaches completely.
I used the 3M windo-weld because it is an adhesive and sealant. Others would (should) work too.
Also in 20-20 hind sight, it would have been easier to apply the W-W had I used a small craft syringe like these at Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Plastic-Meas...ndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfbXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==
Especially, when doing the interior repair.
Cheers,
bob
