You can try removing the connector and cleaning it. Maybe you'll get lucky.

 

Update - Forum member Tonlew noted in their recent post that their mechanic used a heat gun to help with the removal of the cap and didn't break the clip.

"Dampers replaced and the mag rides removed without any damage. Thanks to Pete Davies of NG Davies Motors of Newport SWales. He tells me that he just warmed the plastic up a little and they pulled of intact "

Although not tested, it should be possible to carefully shim the connector using a very narrow strips made from an aluminum soda can and inserting them into the clip retainers where it's connected onto the center nut. The shims should allow the clip retainers to slide over the edge of center retaining nut from as the connector is removed.

I would think a combination of using a heat gun to keep the plastic warm during the shimming and removal process should do the trick.

The goal is to avoid breaking the clip retainers -

Proposal for shimming -

 

Your symptoms sound the same as I had with my car late last year (2009 TTS). It was eventually traced to a sensor on the magnetic ride shock...interestingly the right side rear as well! The Audi dealer initially diagnosed a faulty shock and replaced that and all seemed well for a few days, only for the warning light to come back again! A second investigation traced the problem to the sensor which was replaced and has been no trouble since! HTH

Regards
Ross

 

It was eventually traced to a sensor on the magnetic ride shock

@ ross_cj250 - Can you look back through your Service receipts and provide us with the part number for the sensor they replaced? This is good to know for future reference!

This will be an interesting project given the workshop manual states the cap (and connector) will be destroyed when removed (see last image)...

3a - Cover cap for shock absorber with electronically controlled dampening P/N 8J0512133 (Qty 2)
3b - Flat connector housing with contact locking mechanism P/N 1J0973802 (Qty 2)

I'm curious of the sensor is the blue part that can be seen under the cover cap -

 

I had something similar when I first got the car. It turned out to be that the sensor arm's balljoint had popped out. It went back in easily and no more errors.

 

It was eventually traced to a sensor on the magnetic ride shock

@ ross_cj250 - Can you look back through your Service receipts and provide us with the part number for the sensor they replaced? This is good to know for future reference!

Sorry Swiss, I don't have that. The part was replaced free of charge because the dealer had charged me for a new shock that 'may' not have been required and I didn't get any part numbers or great detail on what they actually did. There was a bit of an argument with them over what I was expected to pay for and they eventually agreed to supply and fit the sensor FOC (they said it would normally have been 200'odd £'s!) and gave me a discount on the labour for some other work that was due!

Regards
Ross

 

...a bit more info' that may help, Swiss. Below is a list of parts used when they replaced the shock but which DIDN'T solve the problem!

Regards
Ross

 

@ ross_cj250 - Well that's interesting. They replaced the cover cap P/N 0512133 which I listed above but that didn't solve the problem? It would be very interesting to know exactly which sensor Audi claimed they changed.

It looks like Steve in Ireland may be onto something. Based on schematic the Level Control System Sensors are directly linked to the Dampening Adjustment Valves and the J250 Control Module. See diagrams below -

@ Tare071 - I'd probably start by clearing all the faults, then check where Steve suggested. Verify all the connectors are clean and then see if the fault comes up after running another fault scan.

Also, 00145 isn't a fault code, it's a component identifier listed under Address 14-Susp. Elect. Can you post the actual fault code? (See below)

These are the component identifiers for all four Mag shocks -

Suspension Component -
00142 - Left Front Dampening Adjustment Valve (N336)
00143 - Right Front Dampening Adjustment Valve (N337)
00144 - Left Rear Dampening Adjustment Valve (N338)
00145 - Right Rear Dampening Adjustment Valve (N339)

Faults -
009 - Open or Short to Ground
011 - Open Circuit - Intermittent
012 - Electrical Fault in Circuit

What you're looking for is something like this -

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Address 14: Susp. Elect. Labels: None
Part No SW: 8J0 910 376 B HW: 8J0 907 376 B
Component: J250 Raddaempfung 0050
Revision: --H18--- Serial number: 190DPH 8157550
Coding: 0000032
Shop #: WSC 01236 785 00200
VCID: 2E597F1CC087

1 Fault Found:
00145 - Right Rear Dampening Adjustment Valve (N339) <--- Component
011 - Open Circuit - Intermittent <--- Fault Code
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

 

@ ross_cj250 - Well that's interesting. They replaced the cover cap P/N 0512133 which I listed above but that didn't solve the problem? It would be very interesting to know exactly which sensor Audi claimed they changed.

Correct! I've always had a lingering doubt that I got slightly stitched up by them, but don't know enough about how the Mag ride works.

I've got to contact them when they reopen after the Covid madness on another matter, if I think of it, I'll try and prise some more details out of them...but don't hold your breath! :?

Regards
Ross

 

@ Ross - This is one of the advantages of people now being able to buy an affordable OBD scanner (e.g. OBDeleven) and checking their own fault codes. Even if you can't do the work, at least you know what's going on and are no longer depending on the shop to give you a straight story.

I've recommended on several occasions, when you go in for service, demand a fault code scan print out BEFORE and AFTER the work is done. This way they have little or no wiggle room to BS you.

Better yet, show them your own print out and tell them when the work is done, you'll be running another before you leave the shop to verify they did the job right.

 

The level senders aren't directly connected to the shocks. They input into the J250 controller, along with the shocks. There are discreet error codes for everything, so a level sender fault shouldn't raise a dampening adjustment valve fault.

I think those rear caps just contain the electrical connection for the shock. There's only 2 wires in that schematic anyways. Wish I took mine apart when I did the mag ride delete. The dampening adjustment valve is a component inside the shock.

Mag ride failure seems to be tied to age rather than mileage. Can anyone who has bought new shocks lately check the production date? I wonder how many NOS (new old stock parts) are out there.

 

The dampening adjustment valve is a component inside the shock.

@ cas5259 Are you sure about that? I've not found anything that would indicated there was any sort of electrical valving mechanism inside the shock. From the literature, the system simply powers the magnetic coils which makes the fluid more or less viscous. The shocks are either on or off, there's no "valving" involved.

From SSP 381 -

When the magnetic coils are not activated electrically, the magnetic particles are arranged irregularly in the damper oil. During the piston stroke, the individual particles are forced with the fluid through the piston bores. The particle-laden suspension damping fluid has a low resistance to the movement of the piston. As a result the damping force is low.

When the magnetic coil is activated electrically, the magnetic particles are aligned with the magnetic field lines. Thus, long particle chains form in the vicinity of the piston.

These particle chains are aligned cross-wise before the fluid enters the piston bores. During the piston stroke, individual particles break up and are forced with the fluid through the piston bores. To "break up" these chains, force must be applied, i.e. work must be done.

The resistance which the piston must overcome is greater than in the case of a non-energised magnetic coil, and is dependent on the amount of electrical current and the strength of the magnetic field. This allows greater damping forces to be achieved.

The magneto-rheological dampers are much simpler in design than conventional dampers. The complex conventional damping valves are no longer required. These have been replaced by bores in the piston through which the fluid is displaced. In addition, single-tube dampers are used. The magnetic coils are integrated in the pistons.

 

The magnetic coils are the "valve". A broken coil would show an open circuit fault. Maybe a short to ground if damaged, like my car had on the front left.

Edit to add: For the rear shocks, I think the top connector just adapts the wiring from the harness plug into the shock itself. The wires run down the center of the piston to the coils.

 

Yes, I totally agree. This is why we need the fault code from his original fault scan.

At the moment, we don't have that. Let's see if "009 - Open or Short to Ground" shows up!

The real pisser is the fact the cap, according to the Workshop Manual, can't be removed without destroying it. Only Audi would come up with a design like that! :x

So the next question is, how can you determine the difference between a fault in the cap or the coil? Guess he'd have to run a leveling adaption and/or have the shock tested for rebound. Still, if the cap is bad, the coil won't get a signal. Hummm....???

I really hope it's just what Steve mentioned for a dirty connection at the cap. But given the Mag-shocks tend to fail with age, it may be time for a new one.

Oh, and just so this won't seem as horribly expensive as it will be, a completely new set of OEM front and rear mag-shocks for an Audi R8: $9932.48* plus labor!

*https://www.euroworks.ca/audi-r8-magnetic-shocks.html

 

Yes, I totally agree. This is why we need the fault code from his original fault scan.

At the moment, we don't have that. Let's see if "009 - Open or Short to Ground" shows up!

The real pisser is the fact the cap, according to the Workshop Manual, can't be removed without destroying it. Only Audi would come up with a design like that! :x

So the next question is, how can you determine the difference between a fault in the cap or the coil? Guess he'd have to run a leveling adaption and/or have the shock tested for rebound. Still, if the cap is bad, the coil won't get a signal. Hummm....???

I really hope it's just what Steve mentioned for a dirty connection at the cap. But given the Mag-shocks tend to fail with age, it may be time for a new one.

Yeah. Could be that the shock itself is fine, but the wiring going into it isn't. My front left one failed, but the harness connection is on the bottom of the strut so it's a bit different.

The high cost of these parts are why at 80k miles, I got rid of the magride. I could replace the Bilstein B12 kit 3x for the price of replacing all strut/shocks once.

 

When that day comes for me, the mag shocks are history! So far, at 106,000km - touch wood!

Last year my local Audi shop quoted me around 3,100-Euro to replace them all. A local suspension specialty shop quoted me 1,700-Euro for the KM "Street Comfort" set up; all four corners with de-mag kit and labor. Not too bad. But still.

I would NEVER recommend the mag ride to anyone looking to buy a TT.

 

Yes, I totally agree. This is why we need the fault code from his original fault scan.

At the moment, we don't have that. Let's see if "009 - Open or Short to Ground" shows up!

The real pisser is the fact the cap, according to the Workshop Manual, can't be removed without destroying it. Only Audi would come up with a design like that! :x

So the next question is, how can you determine the difference between a fault in the cap or the coil? Guess he'd have to run a leveling adaption and/or have the shock tested for rebound. Still, if the cap is bad, the coil won't get a signal. Hummm....???

I really hope it's just what Steve mentioned for a dirty connection at the cap. But given the Mag-shocks tend to fail with age, it may be time for a new one.

Yeah. Could be that the shock itself is fine, but the wiring going into it isn't. My front left one failed, but the harness connection is on the bottom of the strut so it's a bit different.

The high cost of these parts are why at 80k miles, I got rid of the magride. I could replace the Bilstein B12 kit 3x for the price of replacing all strut/shocks once.

I have only tested and cleared error with OBD2 bluetooth tools, like carista and others.
But it does say under the details something about bad impedance so i am kinda hope it is wire loom/ connection issue

 

Yes, I totally agree. This is why we need the fault code from his original fault scan.

At the moment, we don't have that. Let's see if "009 - Open or Short to Ground" shows up!

The real pisser is the fact the cap, according to the Workshop Manual, can't be removed without destroying it. Only Audi would come up with a design like that! :x

So the next question is, how can you determine the difference between a fault in the cap or the coil? Guess he'd have to run a leveling adaption and/or have the shock tested for rebound. Still, if the cap is bad, the coil won't get a signal. Hummm....???

I really hope it's just what Steve mentioned for a dirty connection at the cap. But given the Mag-shocks tend to fail with age, it may be time for a new one.

Yeah. Could be that the shock itself is fine, but the wiring going into it isn't. My front left one failed, but the harness connection is on the bottom of the strut so it's a bit different.

The high cost of these parts are why at 80k miles, I got rid of the magride. I could replace the Bilstein B12 kit 3x for the price of replacing all strut/shocks once.

I have only tested and cleared error with OBD2 bluetooth tools, like carista and others.
But it does say under the details something about bad impedance so i am kinda hope it is wire loom/ connection issue

Did you ever get to the root of the problem? I'm currently dealing with same issue on minimum budget so can't really afford trial and error :/

 

...a bit more info' that may help, Swiss. Below is a list of parts used when they replaced the shock but which DIDN'T solve the problem!

Regards
Ross

Sorry to bump this after a year or so, but how the heck did you get that cap for just 27 pounds? Or was that part of the discount you arranged with them for their goof?

Those things (8J0512133) are $150 each here--I just bought two and some low-dollar fasteners I needed, total with shipping and taxes was nearly $400 CAD for two of the caps!

Also I bought from a dealer on the other side of the country because despite the crazy $45 shipping charge, was still about $25 less per cap than local dealers around here--and the local dealers refused to PM as well so screw them I just bought online.

 

Hmmmm Worried now, mine the bump stop has perished and one split on the back ( TTS) Audi quoted me (sitting down) £1035 to replace the rear Bump stops, Halfords using genuine parts about £450 and my local VAG Specialist who have an excellent rep £200 I gave them the part numbers from the Audi quote and they ordered them from Audi, but i am wondering about the caps as well.

 

@ Taylortony - "Bump stop" - are you referring to Item 2 shown here? From some previous posts, it may be possible to remove the connector cap (Item 3A) without breaking it despite what the workshop manual says. But I would print this out and discuss it with the shop that's offering to do the work just to be clear.

 

yes one is bad and the other is in two halves, but as it the mag ride ( 2012 ) you need the top covers I believe as you cannot remove them without destroying them.

 

@ Taylortony - I seem to recall someone recently had their rear mag shock replaced and it didn't require a new cap. Let me see if I can find it and will link to it -

EDIT - Found it! Here's the post. If this shop is year you, it might be worth checking them out. According to Knight-tts they didn't need to replace his caps. Drop him a PM for details -

Magnetic ride rear shock part# confusion...
https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... &t=2010011

 

thanks, that might have come as a complete unit, to get the bumpstops out the cap has to come off to access the nut.

 

@ Taylortony - Give him a shout and find out exactly what was involved. From the post, I got the impression the shop he used were able replace the shocks and still use the original caps. Audi probably snaps them off intentionally, but these guys may have figured a way to remove them without breaking them. You know Audi, any means to make a buck! :roll: