[benckj]

OK, thanks for the clarification. Just seemed odd that they would be identical given the bolt pattern and angle of cap.

 

[benckj]

Finally started on this job as winter is approaching.I'm still in the middle of removing the magride cap on the RHS so bear with me as I'll give a full update with pics when I'm done. Thought I'd least provide a brief update on my status.

Rear brake pads replaced. Initially thought I could get by with using a G clamp and variety of other tools to rotate and depress caliper pistons. Glad I sourced the proper tool for this as it would have been near impossible to depress cylion er otherwise. Brakes completed on both sides now.

On the Chinese Magride shock replacement I decided I'd re-use the connection caps regardless of the repairs I needed to do. How hard can it be? Welcome to Mission Impossible 4.

I focused on removal of the internal connection cap without breaking securing tabs. I did manage to achieve this on the RHS with great effort of using a small craft knife and various pry tools along with plenty of silicone spray and heat. What I didn't account for was the rotation of the cap and fragile wires which attach to electrical socket which plugs into shock positive pin. This resulted into breaking the wires and having to repair using a combination of a boot lace ferule and soldering onto broken wire pin. Quite a mission to get the right size & length so it would fit onto shock securely. More on this later.

One of the telltales of a successful job is checking work along the way. I found on-line that the resistance of the internal Magride coil is between 1.2-1.4 ohms. From my measurements the RHS was only 0.1 while new shock is 1.2 ohms. I used this figure to check my completion of electrical connection repair.

On the LHS shock I am getting a resistance of between 34- 3.2ohms which seems to eventually stabilise on the lower figure. New shock is also at 1.2ohms so will be using this as my base figure. I'm unsure on what to think of the old shocks resistance readings as it does start very high and slowly decays. I know a fair amount of oil has leaked and the shock, much like RHS is shot. Very little force to compress and next to zero rebound dampening. I speculate that the lack of oil may eventually cause internal coils to overheat & fail (open or short circuit).

Today mission is to remove the electrical cap while preserving the internal connection. If I break the tab I'll need to come up with a innovative way to repair. More on this later........

 

[Johneve]

Resistances this low are difficult to measure accurately. Temperature, contact resistance and meter leads all add to uncertainty.

The MagRide controller measures resistance every time at start up and also allows for temperature so a wide variation is obviously normal.

The internals of a MagRide shock absorber are mechanically much simpler than a traditional shock so coil failure or running out of fluid due to a leak are the two most likely to cause failure.

 

[benckj]

Checked old shock again after cap removed and it was 1.1 ohm. I appreciate this is not accurate but it certainly gives and indication of an internal issue.

I’m very pleased to report my little trick to remove cap without damaging tabs or internal electrical socket worked. Very simply;
1/ Mark position of cap for rotation reference.
2/ Soak plastic with silicone spray
3/ Heat area with hair dryer to soften plastic
4/ Apply more spray
5/ Use a cork screw to locate point under center of tab. Apply pressure by gently prying against shock body. Make sure pressure is applied to tab center as this is where tab intersects with shock lip.
6/ Use standard flat head screw driver to work tab until cap pop free.
7/ Repeat on opposite side while holding cap in position.
8/ Gently remove cap to expose internal wire socket and pry upwards to ensure it’s loose.

Took about 10m to complete task without and damage to components. Installed onto new shock, check resistance to connections and installed on car. Took for a drive and everything seems to be in order with no dash lights. Will check using VCS after decent drive. Need to research info about checking and calibrating new shocks.

 

[TiTillator]

I do some of my finest work using a corkscrew before starting. 😈 Now what’s this about calibrating? I use OBDEleven and it doesn’t show any errors. The ride is nice.

 

[benckj]

Not really sure about the calibration, just something I read on forum which I must chase-up.

In another chase-up item I happened to notice a serious oil leak from my rear diff. I changed fluid last year and recently went through a WOF inspection which didn’t mention anything. Wife only remember hitting a large white rock a few weeks ago and it clunking on underside before being spat out back. What do you think I will find??

Sprayed area with some degreaser and blasted it with compressed air. Will inspect next weekend as just want to celebrate my shock victory before moving onto next project. The list grows on…..

 

[TT'sRevenge]

Nice work @benckj ! Glad to see you made out with those caps without damaging them--looks like a lot of effort and care but you have done it! 😁

Now what’s this about calibrating? I use OBDEleven and it doesn’t show any errors. The ride is nice.

It's just setting the static ride height up in the controller. Basically you take a bunch of measurements and enter the values and that's all you have to do.

It's not 100% necessary, esp. if you haven't lowered the car (or change the susp height in any way), but doesn't hurt to do it. I didn't do mine either, has been good for nearly 3 years like that but yeah it's the "correct" way. I'm not sure if you can see the stored value before you start but if you can you can also see how what's in there compares to what you measure and if you think you should enter new values. Because ppl keep talking about it 😆 I'm probably going to do it this year before I put the car back on the road--well just shortly after, since it should probably be driven a little bit to get the suspension moving from where it has been sitting over the winter.

 

[benckj]

Nice work @benckj ! Glad to see you made out with those caps without damaging them--looks like a lot of effort and care but you have done it! 😁


It's just setting the static ride height up in the controller. Basically you take a bunch of measurements and enter the values and that's all you have to do.

It's not 100% necessary, esp. if you haven't lowered the car (or change the susp height in any way), but doesn't hurt to do it. I didn't do mine either, has been good for nearly 3 years like that but yeah it's the "correct" way. I'm not sure if you can see the stored value before you start but if you can you can also see how what's in there compares to what you measure and if you think you should enter new values. Because ppl keep talking about it 😆 I'm probably going to do it this year before I put the car back on the road--well just shortly after, since it should probably be driven a little bit to get the suspension moving from where it has been sitting over the winter.

Thanks for the info. My car is stock so won't worry about the entering new ride height values. I do want to check that Magride shocks are all operational after driving for a week or two. Unfortunately this won't be happening soon due to my little rear diff problem mentioned above. I've started a new thread on this sore topic.

Reference to thread on calibration of shocks below. Seems that there may be some merit if your ride is not as expected.

New Mag Ride Shocks - Is Recalibration Required...? | Audi TT Forum

 

[TT'sRevenge]

Thanks for the info. My car is stock so won't worry about the entering new ride height values. I do want to check that Magride shocks are all operational after driving for a week or two. Unfortunately this won't be happening soon due to my little rear diff problem mentioned above. I've started a new thread on this sore topic.

Reference to thread on calibration of shocks below. Seems that there may be some merit if your ride is not as expected.

New Mag Ride Shocks - Is Recalibration Required...? | Audi TT Forum

Yeah if you replaced the springs (I'm not sure if you did or not) your car will be at a slightly different height even if you replaced them with the exact same springs. Reason being is springs sag to some degree over time so a brand new spring will not sit at the same height as one that is say 10+ years old.

However at the same time if you did replace the springs I recommend you wait at least a couple weeks for them to "settle" before doing the magride calibration procedure, if you decide to do that procedure. Otherwise if all is fine you can probably keep on truckin' without bothering with it. Well except the diff issue but that's another story as you say.

 

[benckj]

Didn't change springs so will just check in VCS after I drive a few times as a matter of interest.

Diff issue being sorted. Not looking as bad as first thought but still need to work out where the oil leaked from. Didn't need this surprise as I was just finishing suspension/brake work with car be prepared for winter road trips. Guess its better to see now rather than have failure away from home.

 

[spike631]

So nobody tried Nagengast (yet)? Any comment from the people who used the chinese shocks. Are they still good?

 

[JotunTTS]

If you want to get an impression on user satisfaction with nagengast maybe check around on R8 forums. Can imagine that’s the bulk of their clientele. To me they come across as a very reputable company…

 

[TiTillator]

So nobody tried Nagengast (yet)? Any comment from the people who used the chinese shocks. Are they still good?

I used Chinese shocks all around two years ago. The car is not a daily driver, but I have 6k miles on them and they’re great. But I suspect the price has gone up since them.

 

[benckj]

Mine still going fine as well. Will look at replacing fronts after Christmas.

 

[Saprox1]

Anyone have a reference or link to order them? I found a lot of models in aliex so i just want to make sure i order the ones that you recommand haha.

https://a.aliexpress.com/_EJajQZo

Also

https://a.aliexpress.com/_EQ70aN0

 

[jj_tt]

Hey @spike631, I used Nagengast, it was one of my front shocks that had failed, but I sent both shocks to Nagengast for refurbishment as I figured the other shock would fail soon. You can read about it in this discussion

https://www.ttforum.co.uk/threads/mag-ride-shock-failed.2033173/page-2?post_id=9641307#post-9641307

.

My experience was good, I have had them on the car for nearly two years and they are still working.

The only thing to consider is, if you are in the UK, you will need to pay duties and shipping costs etc. It adds quite a bit to the overall cost.

So nobody tried Nagengast (yet)? Any comment from the people who used the chinese shocks. Are they still good?

 

[spike631]

Tnx f the info guys. I went with the Arnots because then i got warranty on the work. I must say, huge difference. Bumps that before shook the world, now can be taken at normal speeds.

 

[Saprox1]

If you want to get an impression on user satisfaction with nagengast maybe check around on R8 forums. Can imagine that’s the bulk of their clientele. To me they come across as a very reputable company…

Magride is assembled in Poland so basiclly someone that managed the team of assembly or a smart worker mastered howto and then oppened such a company.. probably.

 

[TiTillator]

Here are the Chinese shocks I purchased. There are many options, but I suspect they all come from the same manufacturer. I'm very happy with them. For Audi TT TTS MKII TTRS Quattro 07-15 Pair Front Shock Absorbers Magnetic Ride | eBay