Before I bought new stretch bolts I decided to try to get a better fix on the exact problem first. Put the car on all 4 jack stands and got under it while my wife drove. Apparently the nuts that secured the bracket holding the exhaust to the subframe rattled off... replaced those with some lock washers and tightened as much as I could. Problem seems to be gone!

Put a radiator cover on and switched over to studded tires - ready for winter. Haven't driven the TT since 30 April, it's a winter-only car!

 

The holes are bigger than the bolts. Loosen them and you can see the impact at the end of the track rod and lower arms, suspension etc a mm makes if you twist it.. they are also bushes so can be stressed in one direction. A tiny twist can make a big difference..

That's why TTShop said you need alignment after lowering the subframe a touch to fit a downpipe, because it probably won't go back to where it was before.

I'm not saying it will fix your issue, some people have stripped the threads reusing old bolts as they don't stretch anymore.

 

Ah interesting yeah I did reuse the old bolts. I see I can get new ones online for about $30.

I believe it is centered, not sure how else it could sit with all 4 bolts in place. In the meantime I torqued them all down per the specification but I'll go ahead and re-torque them

 

if you removed the subframe with all your shinanigans - have a go at re-centring it - and make sure if you had removed it and used old sub-frame bolts - get new ones! I used stock wheel bolts to help centre the sub frame as they are V'd or whatever the real word is - and once relaxed and centred put in the new sub frame bolts. they need to be done up proper tight - and then a further stretch 90 degree - it will feel like you are pushing it off the axle stands with a breaker bar and extra stuff on it too

 

Well I've finished putting it all back together. It drives and shifts fine. I do feel like there are some new phantom vibrations... especially when turning left. Did an alignment and still have the same result. Put the car on jack stands to try to ID the problem but no luck so far

 

Well I ended up dropping the transmission. Milled out the broken areas, and had to use a magnesium TIG rod to deposit new metal then tap new holes. Also replaced the clutch and throw out bearing while I was down there. Will get everything re-installed over the next week or two here before winter hits

 

I replaced the engine and dogbone mounts but it is the transmission mount that's my problem. It's basically non-existent. I think this is from the previous owner because I can see work has been done here

See the three pictures, but two bolts were totally sheared off and flat to the transmission. One I've chewed up pretty badly trying to extract. The other I'm Dremel-ing a line to try to get a flathead on.

The third bolt had its cast threads totally break off so it's unusable.

Any better ideas? I think I can hopefully get the flathead one out then weld or JB weld the transmission mount in addition to the one bolt...

 

Will do if it comes back. I put in that O2 sensor spacer and the code has been gone for about 300kms now...

But alas, another issue. Was getting a weird vibration when clutch was doing final engagement and even worse was this clunk vibrating noise as the tires were going around. Put it up on jack stands and saw that where the drivers' front axle was mated to the diff it wasn't rotating in a perfect circle and also the grease boot was totally torn

Replaced that axle (cheap - $70) and the problem persisted. Figured this would happen when I saw the old axle's ball joint was fine. Turns out the axle is contacting that damn power steering line that runs directly underneath it (but above the control arm). When I put the jack under the engine the clunk went away.

So... no idea why it's contacting but I think somehow the whole engine is lowered. Probably failing motor mounts?

 

Look dude.... its great you've dumped that nonsense BEA flash...
just code the post cat sensor out.. it takes 5 minutes with Tunerpro and you get no more EML

 

Decided I'll try an O2 sensor spacer on the post-cat sensor... read about it in this forum thread:

P0420 NIGHTMARE!!!! - AudiWorld Forums

1.8T Discussion - P0420 NIGHTMARE!!!! - P0420 NIGHTMARE!!!! I have no other ideas on where to go with this. I practically changed every part that has to do with this damn code and have not received any type of relief. I mean granted I thank this website and everyone?s input to getting rid of...

www.audiworld.com

Another $40 thrown at this can't hurt

 

Well, it's a minor miracle. It's been about 300kms of driving since uploading the BAM ECU and 2 of my 3 CELs disappeared. I lost the 'programming control module not finished' and the 'pressure drop between turbo and throttle valve.'

All I'm left with is P0420 Catalytic system efficiency below threshold (running lean)

Think it's time to buy a new catalytic converter? I think that's my best bet

 

Been a while figured I'd give an update:

Replaced fuel injector O rings + upstream O2 sensor. No change

Just uploaded a BAM ECU. Will see where it goes

In other new the power steering return line had a massive rupture... it was being rubbed on by the axle on the driver's side where it runs right underneath it. Had to replace the line. Luckily it ruptured when I was near home

 

Figured I'd give an update since I've been busy and am about to be gone for 3 weeks for work:

Changed the MAP sensor - no change
Changed the engine coolant temperature sensor - no change to the CELs. I do notice that the temp gauge takes much longer to warm all the way up. I had a feeling my thermostat is bad and stuck open. I will order one and fix it when I get back. Though I still think that's a wholly unrelated problem

When I get back I'm also going to change the O-rings on the fuel injectors since it's very cheap even though I don't think that's the problem. I've now been intermittently getting a 4th CEL, saying my idle RPM is sometimes too high... again making me think an air leak. Though I've smoke tested this thing many times with no results I guess I can try again

 

Lol I see why you’re asking based on the picture. Yes, it’s plugged in

 

Is it plugged in?

 

Are you sure you have the right map sensor? Has it been replaced at some point? I started my car after some modifications and accidently used my 4bar map sensor without the corresponding map updates and it had the same error.

 

I've only owned the car 10 months now and don't have a way to ask the previous owner if it was replaced. I have a picture I put in on page 3 of this post and it looks like it has the original audi logo so I believe it's stock

 

Can't find one. Here's maybe an incomplete one: XDF to suit 240 bfv file

And yeah not surprising that I can't just put a BFV on a BEA or BAM. Though BAM-BEA might be different since it's about the same engine. Not worth checking as I don't think it will solve any of my issues. As far as tuning goes, all I'd like at this point is to be able to modify my .bin file just enough to erase the 'control module programming not finished' code

My fan issue seemed to magically go away. Still have the original issues of lean code and pressure drop. I bought a new coolant temp sensor and o-rings for the injectors even though I know they're fine. Could try replacing the cat but that's expensive and definitely isn't causing the pressure drop code. Who knows

 

This post suggests you cannot change the key map. Eg put a BFV map on a BAM or vice versa

Audi TT240 PS file on 225ps ecu

Audi TT240 PS file on 225ps ecu

nefariousmotorsports.com

But if you can find a BFV XDF it might have the correct locations for the handful of table differences you are interested in.

 

All the XDF does is show the values at addresses with a sensible code and description and sometimes instructions (eg make 0 for decat) and performs calculations on them to show you something sensible, so if the value is milliseconds in the map it might be divided by a 1000 to show you seconds or similar.

Have you found a BFV XDF ?

 

The BAM XDF, doesn't have the same configuration as your BEA ECU... I manually added a table reference to a test file to demonstrate the LDRXN (max load) table was in a different MAP address in your BEA ECU.
If you're changing the bin file, you're going to need to either add the tunerpro checksum plugin or use the nefarious ms-dos executables before updating the map and writing it back.

It might be worth posing a question regarding simply putting a BAM map on a BEA ECU in nefariousmotorsports they are both ME7.5 aren't they. I don't believe REVO have different maps for AMK / BAM / BFV (they are all wideband 7.5 with VVT)

 

The BAM XDF, doesn't have the same configuration as your BEA ECU... I manually added a table reference to a test file to demonstrate the LDRXN (max load) table was in a different MAP address in your BEA ECU.
If you're changing the bin file, you're going to need to either add the tunerpro checksum plugin or use the nefarious ms-dos executables before updating the map and writing it back.

It might be worth posing a question regarding simply putting a BAM map on a BEA ECU in nefariousmotorsports they are both ME7.5 aren't they. I don't believe REVO have different maps for AMK / BAM / BFV (they are all wideband 7.5 with VVT)

Oh I thought maybe with that XDF I could still try to 'control+F' the string that needs to be changed from 2D to 0D.

I already asked about putting the BAM map on a BEA ECU. They are both ME7.5. Got no response. Also got no response when looking for the BEA XDF

 

Feels like the more I try with this car the worse it gets. Can you send me the BAM XDF you were using so I can try to go into tunerpro and change the 2D to a 0D to erase the 'control module programming not finished' code (referenced here P0602/P1681 Control Module Programming Not Finished - Workaround for ME7.1.1/7.5 Thanks

 

So I wrote a stock engine flash to my car (this one 04TT 225 BEA 8N0906018CJ) and there's no difference. Same original 2 engine codes about running lean and pressure drop between turbo and throttle valve. Plus the new one about 'control module programming not finished.' So I guess all was for naught.

So I guess it's not the MAP sensor. Back to the drawing board

On an unrelated note my car's fan seems to run 100% of the time now... going to rewrite the original flash and see if that fixes anything

 

sorry, I completely forgot about that.

FF is hexadecimal for 255

 

Thanks I'd appreciate that. I'll be on vacation the next week or so, no rush

I could also flash this guy's BEA map. Also worth a shot 04TT 225 BEA 8N1920980A 6spd or 04TT 225 BEA 8N0906018CJ
No clue what he means by 'FF first 32 bytes.' Can't figure out what FF is

 

No idea to the answer, but there's definitely some emission changes also maybe elevation changes.


I have a spare ecu and power supply so am a little less fearful if these things. I know they changed around the organisation of some of the me7.5 VAG ECUs .. but I don't know if a BAM maps works on a BFV ECU and vice versa. I have only bricked an ECU once and that was because I didn't update the checksum, and then I wrote a map car started perfectly well and at the end of the engine start, the car worked fine until a restart. Then nothing just turned over and couldn't read or write a map, you're supposed to 'bench flash' the original map back on.. its where you put a wire onto one of the pins.. but leaving it disconnected for a period of time also allowed it to be re-written over again.

If I get a chance over the next couple of days I will try and write your BEA map onto my spare ECU.. if it works... it doesn't mean it will work the other way too.

 

Did you get around to writing the BEA map to your spare ECU?