[StuartDB]

You are definitely clearing the errors?

 

[StuartDB]

The ross-tech article.

Have you logged the car? The rosstech article is pressure drop between turbo and throttle body... so if you log it, you will see what the desired and actual boost is.... maybe the map sensor is at fault, when I had that error the DV was jammed open?

I assume all the other errors disappeared like the misfire?

Have you checked for splits on the left side (looking at the engine) on the inlet manifold leading up to the brake servo.

I take it there's no hardware hacks like resistors to try and fool the car into higher boost.

 

[StuartDB]

I don't really know the vcds blocks.

But the o2 sensors are bank 1 sensor 1 and bank 1 sensor 2 you don't have a bank 2 as that is v6s

 

[StuartDB]

I don't think the post cat sensor does anything, mine is coded out for sports / de cat.

Is everything properly plumbed in?

Underneath the inlet manifold there's the two 4mm connectors for FPR and N249 (or straight to DV if N249 deleted) on the left and in the centre there's a bigger (maybe 6mm) connector which connects to the PCV valve.

I think if you run blocks 1, 31 and 32? You can view long term and short term fuel trims. And then if you clear all errors (even if there are none)? That will reset the fuel trims. If there's an air leak it will be easy to tell.

 

[StuartDB]

I still don't understand about the errors not disappearing?

Have you cleared them with the engine off and made sure they are not there. And they only come back after a few minutes running?

Did you check the fuel trim blocks 31 and 32 I thing sort term and long term..

The coil wiring can go brittle and / or dodgy earth connectors on cam cover..

 

[StuartDB]

I had a cheap coil pack and it vibrated up the tube leading to an occasional misfire.. I also bought some bkr7s from ebay and one of them cylinder 1 failed, it would only miss like a lul if hot and ~5500rpm..

If its intermittent is it possibly wiring? Or maybe oil getting into the spark plug hole? From the centre cam gasket..

 

[StuartDB]

I don't think the post cat sensor does anything, mine is coded out for sports / de cat.

Is everything properly plumbed in?

Underneath the inlet manifold there's the two 4mm connectors for FPR and N249 (or straight to DV if N249 deleted) on the left and in the centre there's a bigger (maybe 6mm) connector which connects to the PCV valve.

I think if you run blocks 1, 31 and 32? You can view long term and short term fuel trims. And then if you clear all errors (even if there are none)? That will reset the fuel trims. If there's an air leak it will be easy to tell.

Running blocks 1, 31, and 32 it seems my lambda stays pretty close to 1. Not sure how to view long or short term fuel trim

Group 32 I don't really understand... it says my bank 1 sensor 1 idle is about 2.6% and my bank 1 sensor 1 partial load is -7%... no idea what to make of these #s

Attached the log for those blocks

Sorry it is 32 and 33 not 31 and 32

Essentially, if you are leaking air you will get fuel trims out side the target range...

There are some other linked videos, essentially the goal is 0%, long term fuel trims are adaptions based on how much more or less fuel is required to correct for unmetered air (a leak) as idle is always at vacuum. But there are acceptable settings. Like maybe 4% for long term and -10 to +10 for short term. If you have -2.6 in LT and clear all errors (even if none) fuel trims are reset and then looking at ST FT your short term might be -10,+7,'-10,+7.... etc then after a while the LTFT might be -1 then your STFT should be -9,+8,-9,+8... etc. Short Term always go less, more,less,more but its ideal to get the gap between the numbers smaller..

There's also a Map table called FKVVS which stores a profile based on Audi Stock Injectors, but that sometimes needs adjusting... there's a tool you can get to tell you the best new values, it's based on the throttle position (maybe load?) and revs, and you drive around trying to cover as many rpm, TP combinations and it will show you the adjustments for your table..

 

[StuartDB]

it sounds like it is sucking in unmetered air or not giving enough fuel, you obviously disturbed the injector rail, to remove the inlet to get to the PCV stuff. (did you break the dip stick tube when you did that?)
- Have you checked the FPR on the end of the fuel rail to see if it is blocked?

the fact you have worsened this whilst changing / disturbing stuff is probably a good sign as you are around the right area - have you check the S bend thing on the end of the inlet manifold (left side if looking at a 225)

 

[StuartDB]

You could replace the injector o-rings they are only a few quid. Just try to avoid any dirt falling into the manifold.

 

[StuartDB]

I doubt it's orientation of the stock DV, we've all played with that sort of thing and never had issues.. the only DV that actually cares is the rubbish Forge DV Splitter (DVSPLITR) which 'must be run backwards' otherwise it might break... that sounds ridiculous for a £175 component.... "if it is not quite right it will break" <-- oh come on

 

[StuartDB]

Can you upload pictures of the pipe work?

Could it be the incorrect or a faulty map sensor? So the maf is saying 1890mbar and the map sensor only seeing 1540mbar?

Someone in here accidently fitted a 2.5bar map sensor so was getting overboost errors, if you have a 4bar map sensor without the map updates it's going to read less..

Have you got the capability to log the specified and actual boost? It's like a fiver for a cable

 

[StuartDB]

You can't log boost revving on a driveway, it's load based - so either a road or dyno..

Obviously, be careful with your laptop on the passenger seat, I got quite good at it.. but have done it about 200 times over the years...

The map sensor is on a hard pipe down near the battery.. . I don't advise just to changing it, as often one or both the bolts may break the inserted thread in the hard plastic and just spin.. try and get the part number first and the logging.

 

[StuartDB]

That log is awful - vcds logging is utter rubbish - there's only about 10 lines of use in 8 pages, and even those are 1.2 seconds apart?

can you try and just get to a nice straight clear road, get into 3rd at about 1500rpm click start and floor it to 6K + then stop logging and upload the XLS. - maybe look at "visualme7logger" it needs a little bit of setting up (ECU Profile) but you can log all the sensors concurrently and 20 samples a second, and create charts from the resultant files in ecuplot.

If you clear the fault and do the above (single logging run) - does the error re-appear? or does it appear some other time randomly? the "actual" should follow the specified apart from when the boost is building it might overshoot a tiny bit, then be brought back in line (with stock map and working actuator and n75)

is your car supposed to be stock? as you have load up to 175%? a stock map doesn't go that high.

 

[StuartDB]

I did notice the intake temperature went to like minus 3 or 4 degrees centigrade maybe that interferes with the load % ?

 

[StuartDB]

If you are talking about getting a new map? By a real tuner, they might highlight an issue in pre-tune checkup.

But if it was me and the car wasn't behaving as expected, I wouldn't blindly put on a new map as it will exacerbate any fault. I would download the map and look to see if it is not stock. Then put a stock map on and use Visual Me7logger to get a real log of value, then you know what the load, boost, timing, injector duty cycle, waste gate duty cycle, knock detection etc should be and hopefully identify any issues. With an Me7logger log file you will see 200 readings from like 30 sensors for a 10 second period...

If you have a real vagcom lead I think they can run in dumb kkl mode or just get a blue kkl lead from China for a fiver.. that can be used to read / write ecu files using NEFMOTO (I don't use that - i use MPPS, which is a different lead) and are used in vcdslite and used with Me7logger.

 

[StuartDB]

So I went under there and couldn't notice any cracks in the exhaust. However, I did notice this coupling clamp (see pictures). And though I couldn't see a leak, when I turned the car on I could hear, feel, and smell exhaust coming out the side of it.

So a question - why is this clamp here, was something there originally and removed?
And a follow up - this exhaust leak is past the last O2 sensor... so am I correct to say this can't be causing the CEL?

The sleeve joins the cat pipe to the cat back, you might find the bolts snap trying to undo them, it looks like it's already been done up really tight, as the clamps are already closed. I changed the bolts for new stainless coach bolts when I needed to remove it. It's quite a clever sort of multi layer sleeve which tightens evenly, but they can break up.. you could try removing and refitting with some decent silicon exhaust sealant.

BTW no you cannot read or write maps with vagcom... but it takes some research to get the right software tools and cables...

 

[StuartDB]

What car do you have?

If it is a BAM then you can download the MAP using Nefmoto and a blue KKL lead - I don't use this, I use MPPS but that's just what I had already bought and used.. lots of people use Nefmoto (it is a well supported and maintained product, using a readily available generic cable)


You don't need to jump pins on ECUs etc... there are instances in some cars (like my S3) where the k-line signal is interfered with by the dash.. in my opinion, if you cannot do the basic stuff with a simple cable plugged into the ODB port in the car and USB port in a laptop.. (after checking leads and settings) then it might be the car...

 

[StuartDB]

Download tunerpro and a decent BAM xdf.

I assume your bin file is 1024 KB.. if it is smaller, it will be an encrypted map say from Revo.

I thought you could still upload zip files to the forum? If you manage to zip and upload your bin, I'll tell you if it's been mapped. Assuming it's a BAM or BFV

 

[StuartDB]

Is that wideband o2 sensors or narrowband?

 

[StuartDB]

I can download your zip file but need a corresponding "TunerPro" XDF file as it is not the same structure as an AMK or BAM (wideband) and I don't think it is the same as an APX (APY too) which are narrowband.

I have just upgraded my laptop to Windows 11 and appear to have lost my NefariousMotorsports login details to their forum in order to find someone with a BEA ECU XDF, I wonder if it is structured the same as a BFV (Audi TT QS) as that has a different definitions file to BAM and AMK (even though you can just overwrite it with a BAM file structure.

I know it is not BAM structure because a tell-tale sign of whether the engine has been remapped is the LDRXN table..

eg this is a map I did a couple of years ago when I first got my decat pipe.

a stock "max load" goes to about 165

but your BEA bin file shows this

which means a BEA has a differently organised file.

I can find the settings

but that doesn't show the labels (RPM) above but they will be the same as mine

here is on top your Max LOAD and a stock BAM - if you have a remap it is pretty mild.