"Good" morning

Toothed belt not timed up correctly??

G40?? It's near the cover and can get knocked off by a clumsy mechanic.

etc etc etc :wink:

Joe

 

if it was timed up wrong then it would be running lumpy on idle?

I know it could be so many things but it was running fine before I had the parts changed. :?

 

if it was timed up wrong then it would be running lumpy on idle?

I know it could be so many things but it was running fine before I had the parts changed. :?

You have my sympathy. Have you reported your problem? What did they say? Have a word with Wak or better still, if you can motor over to him he will probably be able to fix it. Wish I could help more. Your situation happens far too often for my liking.

Hope you solve it soon

Joe

PS Are you going to Gaydon? If not perhaps you should. Somebody there I'm sure will be able to help.

 

No i haven't been back to the garage yet, but i will do. I also have a warranty but im unsure of the excess which i'll have to check.

Im not going to Gaydon, I want to but having already been to 2 shows/meets this month so my bank says I shouldn't . :roll:

Cheers for your help/sympathy though :wink:

Dean

 

As I read in another post, i thought i would eliminate the maf by disconnecting it and driving home from work. Still exactly the same as it was when connected and it looks like it had been quite recently.

I have checked all visible hoses for splits etc. and all seems ok.

I have always been under the impression that if the timing was out it would be a really bad judder even on idle, which this isn't, this is more like the turbo spools, i get a surge of boost from 3-4k and then its like someone is squeezing a hose and restricting air!

 

The idle could be lumpy on idle if the timing was out but it depends which way and I'm not sure how much the ECU can compensate too. Also, although it's a twin cam, the relative cam timing will still be the same as both cams are linked by a chain and the rubber belt that's been replaced only drives one cam. Too much valve overlap would make it very lumpy but that's not going to change because of the undisturbed chain. It will only be advanced or retarded. I think advanced may give you a lumpy idle but with more peaky power band and retarded the opposite which may fit in with your symptoms.

It could well be something else that's been disturbed however.

You can check the cam timing without to much dissembly by taking the engine covers off, undoing the big pipe (red highlighted brackets) and pivoting it up, unclipping the cam cover and pulling it back as far as you can. There's a notch on the edge of the cam pulley which lines up with a notch on the cam cover when the engine is at TDC. This should line up with a notch on the crank pulley in the same way. You can see this with the under side pannel off and can turn the crank with a socket.

You shouldn't need to do this though as you've paid someone to do this for you. If you buy a dog you don't bark yourself as they say.

( From http://www.amp82.co.uk/tt/timingbelt/ )

 

cheers for the info john.

I took it back to the garage, checked the timing etc. which is all fine. Luckily enough he said his mate is the head tech at Audi up the road, if I bring it back monday we'll go up there and stick it on vag-com to get some more info, all free of charge of course. Thats a result in my eyes as I need the airbag light reseting anyway and i'll also find out if there are any other errors with the car. So fingers crossed its something simple.. :?

 

Let us know what it is

 

Good luck bud. :wink:

 

I would like to avoid the 'replace something and see if it does the trick' method as this on a previous car cost me £500 to find a faulty MAF.

How come doing this cost you £500?

 

diagnosis, plugs, leads, distributer, etc. etc. etc.

anyway, after getting impatient I decided to take the boost pipe off to check things over. 1st thing i noticed was a squashed boost pipe - diverter valve hose, not impressed. I then check the cam belt and guess what, looks like an old one!! :evil: , can see the teeth marks on the top(smooth) side, something which im assuming shouldnt happen to a belt thats done 30 miles. I put it all back together and took it for a spin, the hesitations gone but no power. I disconnected the battery to reset the ECU as i assumed it had gone into limp mode, and with a bit of luck it had. Goog thing for me, but not so good in the whole scheme of things.

So back to the garage in the morning for what i imagine to be a nightmare :roll:

 

If they've not replaced the cam belt that would be a bit of a shocker! A new belt with so little miles would look matte rubber on the smooth back surface. The white printing on the belt would be totally intact still.

A worn belt would look shiney on the back and the teeth tend to print on the smooth side too. Also the white printing would be little evident.