FIrst up Use this to transfer your numbers into Faults http://wiki.ross-tech.com/index.php/Main_Page from what you've posted this is the results:-

17579/P1171/004465 - Angle Sensor 2 for Throttle Actuator (G188) Implausible Signal
Possible Symptoms
Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) active
Possible Causes
Angle Sensors 1/2 for Throttle Actuator (G187/G188) faulty
Power Supply for Angle Sensors 1/2 for Throttle Actuator (G187/G188) faulty
Wiring/Connector(s) from/to Angle Sensors 1/2 for Throttle Actuator (G187/G188) faulty
Possible Solutions
Check Angle Sensors 1/2 for Throttle Actuator (G187/G188)
See Measuring Value Blocks (MVB), usually MVB 062
Power Supply for Angle Sensors 1/2 for Throttle Actuator (G187/G188) faulty
Wiring/Connector(s) from/to Angle Sensors 1/2 for Throttle Actuator (G187/G188) faulty

17950/P1542/005442 - Angle Sensor 1 for Throttle Actuator (G187): Implausible Signal
Possible Symptoms
Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) active
Possible Causes
Angle Sensors 1/2 for Throttle Actuator (G187/G188) faulty
Power Supply for Angle Sensors 1/2 for Throttle Actuator (G187/G188) faulty
Wiring/Connector(s) from/to Angle Sensors 1/2 for Throttle Actuator (G187/G188) faulty
Possible Solutions
Check Angle Sensors 1/2 for Throttle Actuator (G187/G188)
See Measuring Value Blocks (MVB), usually MVB 062
Power Supply for Angle Sensors 1/2 for Throttle Actuator (G187/G188) faulty
Wiring/Connector(s) from/to Angle Sensors 1/2 for Throttle Actuator (G187/G188) faulty

17972/P1564/005476 - Throttle Actuator (J338): Under-Voltage during Basic Setting
Possible Symptoms
Throttle Body Alignment (TBA) unsuccessful
Possible Causes
Battery Voltage too Low
Possible Solutions
Check Battery Voltage
Connect Battery Charger for Throttle Body Alignment (TBA)
Retrieved from "http://wiki.ross-tech.com/index.php/17972/P1564/005476"
Category: Fault Codes

17705/P1297/004759 - Pressure Drop between Turbo and Throttle Valve (check D.V.!)
Possible Symptoms
Power Loss
Possible Causes
Leaking hoses and/or pipes between components
Check Boost Pressure Control Valve (N249)
Possible Solutions
Check hoses and/or pipes between components
Check / Replace Boost Pressure Control Valve (N249)
Check / clean Throttle Valve, do Throttle Body Alignment
Special Notes
Did anyone fitted an extra (wrong) dump valve?
Retrieved from "http://wiki.ross-tech.com/index.php/17705/P1297/004759"
Category: Fault Codes

SOunds like it needs a throttle reset.. if it can communicate with the throttle body... if not then the wirin to throttle body is a problem, or the battery has been dead and they just need clearing...Next thing is pretty much what it says up there... CHECK DV !!!

 

Thanks for the reply Tony.

Tried TBR but no improvement .. if anything feels like its getting worse. What's to check with the DV. Its not that old and was changed by Wak when remapped year or so ago.

Batterty should be fine as it sits on a battery conditioner

 

When you do Throttle Body reset , do you hear 3-4 clicks from the TB and do they sound solid clicks or is there any noises to suggest something worn or loose. Also remove the throttle body hose, move it to one side and try a TBR whilst looking at to see if its be loos and have an inconsistant motion in its travel .

Have you definitely eliminted a leak?

 

Not really taken any notice of the clicks ... will have to try the hose off in daylight.

I haven't eliminated ... or tested for leaks ... is that likely considering absoultely fine when last used and would that make it sound like a tractor. Sounds bleeding awful

 

looking at your codes and from what your saying it really does sound throttle body related....

 

okay,
so today have removed the silicon hose from the TB intake ... so can see the 'butterfly' - everything looks normal and is very clean - no build up of carbon etc. Turned the ignition key to ON and quickly took a peek at the throttle body. Can hear some faint whinning sounds (like when a pump is seized) but no movement whatsoever from the butterfly. What are the solid clicks I should hear, are they something I should also be able to see.

 

okay,
so today have removed the silicon hose from the TB intake ... so can see the 'butterfly' - everything looks normal and is very clean - no build up of carbon etc. Turned the ignition key to ON and quickly took a peek at the throttle body. Can hear some faint whinning sounds (like when a pump is seized) but no movement whatsoever from the butterfly. What are the solid clicks I should hear, are they something I should also be able to see.

If you do a TBR , you should see the butterfly move close-open to close around 2 cycles....how are you initiatling a TBR?

 

Initaiting TBR by switching ignition on (without starting engine) and leaving for a few minutes. Quickly getting back to the TB I can hear very faint whirring sounds (very faint but a bit like the data you hear over a fax line) before it all falls silent again. No movement in the butterfly at all

 

TB knacked if butterfly not moving?

 

That's what i was thinking based on where I thought Wak was going with this. Just want to know if there is anything else I can do to confirm the diagnosis and that I am indeed performing the TBR correctly. Is the whirring noise I'm hearing suggesting there is 'power' to the TB or could there be a wiring/sensor fault

What makes me doubt is why the engine sounds so rough when I start it up ... getting to the point where I'm worried to do so cos it really knocks. If it is beacuase the TB is knacked and jammed shut, whay does that cause the engine to knock. Have started it because the other suggestion was to check I haven't any leaks but cant do that without it running. Also it was running perfectly one day to a point that it's not the next.

 

Recap of symptoms:
Car used last Monday ... c300 mile round trip ... (fast drive) sweet as a nut
Sitting on driveway hooked up to battery conditioner until Sunday morning
Car started first time but revs pulsing between 1000 and 1500 revs - never done this before
Tried to drive it thinking it might settle when warm but warning lights came on (EPC) loss of power and stalled
Left it few minutes started again, not pulsing but not running at all smoothly - crawled the few hundred yards home pulsing again.
LiquidTT showing codes 17579, 17950, 17972 and 17705 - as previously posted these do point towards TB issue
Pulsing subsided but developed into severe shaking/knocking
Everytime car started now it goes straight to the severe shaking/knocking
Tried throttle body resest (ignition ON and left for few minutes) ... no change
Disconnected silicone hose inlet to TB to inspect butterfly while trying throttle body reset (again ignition ON and left for a few minutes) and no visible movement of the butterfly although a faint whining sound can be heard which after several seconds stops ... suggests something is trying to happen but not

Seems to suggest throttle body is fried but done plenty of searching on here and noone seems to have experienced this before. Would understand if it was quite common or mine was really coked up but it's very clean with no evidence of any coking, so have this nagging doubt why it should suffer such a failure ... simple enough job to replace but prob not cheap so want to exhaust any possible alternative options. Can anyone explain why if the butterfly is not moving it would cause such an awful knocking noise ... would it have caused a secondary failure elsewhere

Getting a bit desperate as don't know what to try next

 

Terry are you disconnecting the battery for your TBR? You would be better to use vagcom or if you don't have it then pull the ECU fuse, no 10 or 37 instead of disconnecting the battery.

I never got the TBR to work with the ignition off/on method but works pulling the fuse :wink:

Here's how you tell which one

The ECU fuse is #10 for models before 10/2000, or #37 for models after 10/2000.

 

Here's the full instructions from vagcom tweakers guide.

I had to leave the fuse out for longer than 5 mins for it to work. And I also pulled both fuses just to be sure

If you don't have VAG-COM, or you actually want to reset the ECU for clearing all adaptation
tables, you can just pull the ECU fuse, or disconnect the battery. Leave the power out for
5min to ensure all the power has been drained. Then reconnect, and turn on ignition, but DO
NOT start the engine. Listen out for the clicking under the bonnet, which is usually over after
a minute. Turn off ignition.
Warning! If you disconnect the battery, be prepared to enter the radio safety code.
Note. The ECU fuse is #10 for models before 10/2000, or #37 for models after 10/2000.

 

Cheers Neil,
Intersting that you should say that cos I've never heard the clicking before when I've tried a TBR just from the ignition - just assumed it wasn't very loud - could be that it never worked for me either and isn't now. I don't have VAG-COM, not gonna loose remap or anything by pulling the fuse am I ... feel a bit dumb asking that but this is no time for me to make wrong assumptions

I'm away early tomorrow so will have to try this when I get home in the evening - i'll report back

 

Its possible that its never worked. I never heard any clicking when I first tried it the 'ignition' way. Works the other way though.

It works in the same way as disconnecting the battery so you won't do any harm to the remap.

Give it a go but if you still don't have any luck it is possible that you have a fault code that may need clearing first with vagcom. All engine dtc's need to be cleared before a TBR for it to work. Sometimes you get a code relating to the TBR that says adaption started 'error'. If you have this, like I had, then the only way I was able to do the TBR was first pull the fuse (I pulled both) for a while and put it back (5 mins didn't work so I left it half hour), then it let me clear the fault code using vagcom and only then was I able to do the TBR.

Oh and you can hear the clicking very clearly especially if you just lean through the window to switch on the ignition. You will have to be quick if you want to look inside the TB while its resetting as it does it almost immediately and only takes a few seconds.

PM sent

Edit: I have just heard from someone that pulling the fuses didn't work for him but disconnecting the battery did so don't give up until you have tried everything.

 

I really appreciate the advice and support. I've been away all day today so not had a chance to try anything. I've got liquid that is able to clear codes although not been able to clear those codes yet ... I'll try the battery disconnect and fuse removal and see if I can reset the codes

 

did you get this sorted mate? I have the same problem on my s3!

 

I have exactly the same problem described! My battery was dead so i replaced it... By the sounds of this i shouldnt have started the car immediately after Will do a TBR when i get time and see what happens....

 

Car is working again ..... but no idea what the problems was

Had the battery disconnected, fuses to ECU removed, fault codes reset and attempted TBR several times ... had the hose to the TB on and off a number of times to view inside any movement in butterfly during TBR

At no point have I heard any clicking or anything to suggest the TBR worked. There was a slight 'pinching' shut of the butterfly at the end of what appeared to be the TBR process

I did at one point run the engine by mistake with the TB hose disconnected ... I reset the fault codes (MAF related) after this and put everything back together and since then its been perfect

Took for a few test runs ... made sure my breakdown cover was up to scratch. Been to Leeds and back - over 400 mile round trip in a day and no probs whatsoever

Its a flamin mystery :?

 

My car is now fine i pulled fuse 37 for 5 minutes, Let the car do a tbr a voila all is well....

 

oh crap its back ....

Since fault cleared before I've done at least 2 significant journeys and numerous local ... no problems whatsover.

Yesterday over hundred miles to Milton Keynes no problems whatsoever ... though I might stop at TT shop on way home ... no chance ... started up in MK and the tractor had returned .. codes 17987 Throttle Actuator and 17705 (Pressure Drop between Turbo and Throttle Valve )

Cleared codes, tried TBR (the one I can never get to work ) and via Liquid TT ... no change and back they came when started up.
Thankfully have been carrying some basic tools so disconected the battery ... cleared the codes and started it up ... everything well again and drove the 100+ home without a hitch ... and GAVE IT SOME when a bit nearer home and good boost

What the hells going on ... :?

 

I had a problem with my throttle body that brought up fault codes relating to the throttle body angle sensors, although the symptoms weren't the same as yours.

On mine, whist driving along on a few occasions, the EPC light would come on and the engine revs were restricted until the ignition was cycled.

There are two variable resistors (angle sensors) connected to the throttle flap that feed the throttle position back into the ECU. They operate in tandem so the ECU can compare the two signals. If the signals don't correspond with each other the EPC (Electronic Power Control) light comes on and the ECU limits the engine revs. This is a fail safe system so that a faulty signal doesn't result in the throttle opening fully when it shouldn't.

The two variable resistors are behind the black plastic cover that's held on with several clips. I removed the throttle body from the car, took it to a clean location, and very carefully unclipped and removed the black plastic cover. With the lid off, the variable resistor strips can be cleaned with a cloth and ideally a bit of electrical contact cleaner (I used a bit of WD40). You need to be very careful as the pick ups of the variable resistors are fragile and I seem to remember that there's something in there that's spring loaded that tried to escape!

After cleaning the variable resistors, refitting the cover and fitting the throttle body back into the car I've not had any trouble since. I can't guarantee that this will resolve your problem but with the throttle body angle sensor fault codes it may well be worth a try.

 

that's realling interesting .. the sysmtoms I got first time around were similar, but had the EPC light and got the angle sensor codes. In desperation I actially had that cover off , wiped around the area lighlty and used some WD40. Also cleaned the TB not that is was dirty

Now the recent failure, and it's only a coupe of weeks since is very similar in phsyical sympton, but no EPC, and not getting the angle sensor codes

Never failed while driving ... only intermittently on start up