While I don't have a s tronic I have read on other audi forums that the delay can be changed in vcds, that there a few different settings and you can make it so it pulls away quicker, I don't think the default setting is to pull away earlier. Hopefully someone will know what setting you need to look into.

 

Hi, Usually a problem developing, get oil & filter changed to see if that helps.
A fault recommended to check for when buying 2nd hand.
I believe system can be remapped to improve.
Hoggy.

 

If you put it in "S" mode, does this make a difference?

I mention this, as my 2014 TTS with S-Tronic, has as slight delay on pulling away, and in fact this was something I noticed when I bought the car. Being used to a manual box previously, I've always thought the S-Tronic wasn't as responsive initially when pulling away, and also changing down for a blast.
If at a roundabout say, or I want to pull off sharpish, I select "S", and it's much better.

Which makes me think it could be the factory settings.

 

Have a look at the link below which may be of interest ............ for the asking price it may be worth a shot.

viewtopic.php?f=15&t=1285705

 

WOW! That bugged me about the DSG from the day I got the car. Didn't know it wasn't normal... now I want it fixed ASAP!

I'm really glad the DSG is fine and it's just a small sensor that's at fault!

 

On the drive home I really took notice of it and tried it in D, S and M. It wasn't as bad as I remember, however I'm still sure it isn't as quick as the 7-speed. I tend to drive everywhere in M mode because I find D changes up to soon and S changes up too late for my style of driving. Interestingly the car seemed to pull away a bit better in D mode than M - it goes into second very quickly and gives a slightly smoother drive. In M it feels almost as if it's trying to gently engage the clutch for a smoother pull away, even though I'm trying to floor it, then it fairly suddenly engages.

Have a look at the link below which may be of interest ............ for the asking price it may be worth a shot.

viewtopic.php?f=15&t=1285705

I've just read the thread and it definitely sounds like similar symptoms - "Changing the sensor may fix hesitant takeoff from standstill and possibly also when you want to accelerate from crawl speed and release brake and hit accelerator. The reason is that a faulty sensor does not immediately communicate to the rest of the system that the brakes are fully off. For protection of the gearbox/running gear, throttle increase is not allowed and full clutch engagement is put on hold at slip point. This makes people inadvertently press the accelerator even harder, and when the electronic brain finally figures out that brakes are off and it's OK to accelerate, you jump forward with an unintended quick takeoff. Very annoying and potentially dangerous problem in traffic."

It sounds like replacing the part in a RHD vehicle is a lot more complicated - you have to remove the master cylinder to get to the sensor, so probably something I'll need to get my local indy to look into.

 

saw that same post and thought I'll have that for the sake of it might help, until I saw the ballache it'll be to do on a RHD car, I wonder if theres a way to test the one on the car? If I could test mine and see its slower to respond and know that one of those would defo improve things I would give the bigger job more thought.

 

The 6 speed does have a delayed feel to it and can also feel a little sloppy...had my box remapped when I had the engine remapped at Revo HQ and it made a considerable difference. Especially auto down changes which were better timed (might have noticed this approaching a roundabout or giveaway when it would usually drop say two gears where one would do), anyway yes get it mapped but if the miles are high have it serviced first ;-)

 

With reference to gearbox remapping. I noticed that the remaps are on later models as the dyno guy says cannot alter mapping on early MK1 and mine is 12 years old but with under 23K miles and with full Audi service history. Its going on Dyno on referendum day so maybe it will be and In or Out diagnosis!! Meantime I will try the car in manual mode at the weekend to see what, if any difference.

 

I just received the replacement sensor from datamonkey. Will be installing it soon. I'll keep you posted on the result...

 

UPDATE: I've just installed the new sensor and gone for test drive. Hesitation on standing start has been cut to what seems like the minimum for that transmission. The 1sec+ wait followed by sudden engagement has disapeared. I am very satisfied of my decision to do this!

Install time for me was around 15 minutes... mostly because I chose to remove the air box to have more room to work. Sorry that it can't be as easy to do on right hand drive cars... :?

 

I drove mine today and was thinking about these threads. I've just fitted new discs etc and have been doing my usual bed in procedure. This is just driving the car and using my left foot to gently brake on and off when driving. When I've done this in the TT you can feel the power get cut instantly but it doesn't come back without the same delay I get when pulling away. If I stop in traffic and allow the car to start creeping before pressing the accelerator pedal I get minimal delay. If I got straight from the brake pedal to the accelerator I get this extra delay.
This confirms to me that I have a duff switch also and want to do this. But I can't find any pictures anywhere of where it is is located.
I'd like to be able to get a good look to see if it's possible to do without removing the master cylinder. Maybes make a tool for access?
Anyone got any good links or pics?
If I can't and I remove the mastercylinder, can it be bled normally or do I need vagcom? Hoping it's the former.

 

I drove mine today and was thinking about these threads. I've just fitted new discs etc and have been doing my usual bed in procedure. This is just driving the car and using my left foot to gently brake on and off when driving. When I've done this in the TT you can feel the power get cut instantly but it doesn't come back without the same delay I get when pulling away. If I stop in traffic and allow the car to start creeping before pressing the accelerator pedal I get minimal delay. If I got straight from the brake pedal to the accelerator I get this extra delay.
This confirms to me that I have a duff switch also and want to do this. But I can't find any pictures anywhere of where it is is located.
I'd like to be able to get a good look to see if it's possible to do without removing the master cylinder. Maybes make a tool for access?
Anyone got any good links or pics?
If I can't and I remove the mastercylinder, can it be bled normally or do I need vagcom? Hoping it's the former.

The good news is that replacing the sensor, once you reach it, is incredibly easy. You literally remove one screw, unplug the loom, then plug the new sensor back in and screw it back on. Is is simply mounted as to touch a flat part of the master cylinder. I went to the trouble of cleaning the surface before putting it back on... but I'm not even sure it's really necessary.

No, where your problem actually lies is that since you drive a right hand drive car, your master cylinder is hidden behind tons of engine components... so it's incredibly hard to get to. So what took me 15 minutes, taking time to take appart my air intake to gain more room, will literally take you hours... if you're brave enough to have a go at it.

 

Its less of the brave and more of the patience needed for me :lol: , can you get a pic of yours still? It should be on the same part of the master, so I have a better idea on where to look.

 

UPDATE: I've just installed the new sensor and gone for test drive. Hesitation on standing start has been cut to what seems like the minimum for that transmission. The 1sec+ wait followed by sudden engagement has disapeared. I am very satisfied of my decision to do this!

Install time for me was around 15 minutes... mostly because I chose to remove the air box to have more room to work. Sorry that it can't be as easy to do on right hand drive cars... :?

This is great news, definitely something I'll be looking into then. In my case I'll be asking someone to do the job for me, this isn't the first time having a RHD car has caused issues - on my previous car the master cylinder was leaking and Audi had to pretty much drop the engine out to get to it! Covered under warranty fortunately, however I suspect this sensor won't be.

 

UPDATE: I've just installed the new sensor and gone for test drive. Hesitation on standing start has been cut to what seems like the minimum for that transmission. The 1sec+ wait followed by sudden engagement has disapeared. I am very satisfied of my decision to do this!

Install time for me was around 15 minutes... mostly because I chose to remove the air box to have more room to work. Sorry that it can't be as easy to do on right hand drive cars... :?

This is great news, definitely something I'll be looking into then. In my case I'll be asking someone to do the job for me, this isn't the first time having a RHD car has caused issues - on my previous car the master cylinder was leaking and Audi had to pretty much drop the engine out to get to it! Covered under warranty fortunately, however I suspect this sensor won't be.

More reason to have it confirmed as the fault before replacement.

 

More reason to have it confirmed as the fault before replacement.

I agree. For me it was such a simple job that it would have cost more to have it diagnosed at my local shop than to simply make the sensor swap. But if it involves taking the car appart, you need to have it diagnosed first.

- on my previous car the master cylinder was leaking and Audi had to pretty much drop the engine out to get to it!

DAMN!

 

Does anyone know if this would benefit a diesel with s tronic? I always noticed the lag when pulling away, but put it down to the diesel rather than a sensor. I'd love to have a more responsive start.

 

I don't know for certain but can't see why not.

 

Just a suggestion, could be worth doing a dsg reset as it might have just got lazy over time. I did a reset not to long ago and it made a big difference in the way car changes gear

Sent from my HTC 10 using Tapatalk

 

How do you perform a reset? Might be worth a try, but the gear changes themselves are fine - as soon as the car is moving the gearbox is quick to react. The only real issue is occasionally when pulling away. If I lift off the brake and let the car begin to roll, then accelerate it's fine, it's more when you go to pull away quickly. It's not easy to reproduce on command but I'll try and get it investigated before going ahead with any worm.

 

Have a look at the link below which may be of interest ............ for the asking price it may be worth a shot.

viewtopic.php?f=15&t=1285705

Is anyone able to tell me what I need to view this?

Mine has unbearable jerky pull away, I look like a learner kangerooing every time!

 

Just get it from the dealer. 30-40 gbp or thereabouts.

 

Sorry it doesn't say anywhere here what sensor I need, and I can't read the link topic as I don't have permission?

 

If you provide your chassis number to the dealer and ask for a brake switch sensor repair kit, he will look up the right part number in etka and order it for you.