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Secondary Air Pump Delete on a V6?

2.1K views 5 replies 3 participants last post by  Typhhon  
#1 ·
16814 :(
17831 :( :(
17819 :( :( :(

All pointing to the Secondary Air system going westwards. :( :(

Having seen posts on deletes for 225's has anyone deleted this rather crap part of an Audi on a 3.2?

My issues would be....

a) Blanking plate for V6 take off
b) Dump (catch) Tank recommendation
c) Simulation on power supply to kill any DTC's (resistor size and location)(looks like I could ditch all the cable back to the relay?)

Oh and it would go when we are in the middle of moving house and the garage has become the loft storage and all my tools are packed at the back...duh! :(
 
#3 ·
Thankx

Just looking at the difference in the take off points and might be able to use the Forge (or a copy of plate) further down the take off hose. Not a lot of space under the V6 for access so may take the front off (ahh smoked corners time).

Stage I pull pump and blank off hoses, Stage 2 blank take off and pull it all out...loose bowel moment and all will be fine..... :lol:

Post some pics when done.... :p
 
#6 ·
This was supposed to be a simple unplug and dump exercise but in fact it's about as bad as replacing the pollen filter in an E34 BMW.

First the pump is not mounted in the same place or in the same way as the 1.8. Secondly the Kombi valve is not on a single take off as on the 1.8 …. The V6 is on a two line manifold.

The orientation of the V6 also means that is a right pain to get any access.

In no particular order (oh do I need to mention axel stands?) pull off the under engine cover. Oh unlike the 1.8 we find a couple of Torx bolts and a lot of rivets. Decision time remove the whole plate or just the plastic cover. Having found a couple of sized Torx (salt.. bloody salt) I settled for popping out a few of the rivets to gain access to the front section and wedging it open.

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Comes out through the gap between the chassis and the floor pan here.
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Next the pump and OMG the bloody thing can't wait to get out…its hanging by the hoses which probably explains the failure. One good pull and its out (of the housing). The securing bolts seem to be on rubber mounts and all but one had let go.
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The pump wont come out the through the bay and it wont drop out through the bottom. Its going to go through the space where the daylight is!! :D
Pull off the supply and return hoses. Now start pulling it sideways and out the bottom of the floor plan between the hoses. You have to push the two water hoses one way and the air con hose the other. Be really really careful and gently twist it out. You have to pull the electrical connector before it will drop free. Sound simple…this took 2 hours!!! [smiley=bigcry.gif]
I also found the cable had worn through …so again a failure cause. :(
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Now that's out I used the electrical plug to make up a simple junction for the resistor (RS 330R 10W heat sink) to fool the ECU excuse the lack of black electrical tape. LOL. :lol: This then clips back into the pump frame.
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No for the real cow. You will need a flex (very flexi) drive for the Allen key to remove the three cap head screws holding on the Kombi valve assembly. Forget a standard right angled key. I quickly learned to put a section of material to catch the bolts and they tried to escape.
I removed the hose and eventually the throttle body and them the oil breather to get access. Gave me a chance to clean up the body.

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This has THREE cap head screws and the middle one is almost invisible!

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Pull the Kombi valve, coolant will be released and will need to be topped up later…then I tried to fit the Forge blanking plate and ho hum it's too small. Opened up the holes and fitted two smaller diameter bolts (Sunday so machine shop closed). This I will replace later with a machined to fit item.
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Note the vacuum hose was already broken……duh!
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Refitted the manifold with the temporary plate fitted.

I wanted to pull the next valve in the system but it would require the whole manifold coming off so no I just blocked the vacuum line with a small allen cap head screw

Replace all then clear the faults with Vag Com and you're finished.

I have left off the rivets and I found a bit too much corrosion under the bay and will be going back under there very soon.
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Please if you know a quicker easier way don't tell me as I will be pretty miffed!