[jaydee77]

So just a quick follow UP.

Hooked the car up on VCDS and this is the main error (sorry its in dutch):
00438 - Vlotter 2 G169
010 - Onderbreking/kortsluiting met plus
Bevries Frame:
Fout Status: 01101010
Fout Prioriteit: 7
Fout Frekwentie: 1
Reset teller: 93
Kilometrage: 110110 km
Tijd Indicatie: 0
Datum: 2021.02.20
Tijd: 16:03:04

The coding of the instrument panel is:
0065008

0064 is when you have magnetic ride installed (i have this). And fuels sender 2 is +0001 so the 0065 looks OK to me

I did an output test on the analogue needles. All needles were OK

Now in adaptation of the instrument panel i tried looking at Fuel sender 1 and 2. Default value is there 128 but both gave no readings in adaptation (NA) ... i suspect this is because the tank malfunction error is in there and cant be cleared.

Now next i've done an Advanced Measure Block readout. In the attachment it shows the measured values.

So what u guys think of that ? Am I right to say that fuel lever 2 sender is really dead (G165) and fuel sender 1 is OK (G) ??

 

[SwissJetPilot]

Since you have a VCDS, you should be able to check the measurement blocks (shown in the video clip image). They will be under Address 71 - Instruments. As mentioned previously, if you put the mouse over the value, the expected range bubble will appear.

Since the data displayed is live, if you shake the car hard enough to get the fuel to slosh around a bit and can actually move the float, it should display a change in value.

And you're right, as long as you have an existing fault, you can't run an Adaptation.

Here's my software code; your codes will be different, but yours should include +0001 for AWD and +0064 for MRS

 

[SwissJetPilot]

Unfortunately I don't have any screen shots of the Instrument Measurement Blocks, but I do have this one from the Roof just to show you what they look like.

It will display three blocks at a time. Just change the Group number to go through them all. You'll eventually get a message that data isn't available which means that's all there are. In this case, there were only eight groups.

You can sort which Group is displayed and organize them any way you want. For example you can display Group 001, 003, 005 or Group 002, 001, 007.

Either click on the Up / Dn button or enter the number manually.

 

[jaydee77]

Since you have a VCDS, you should be able to check the measurement blocks (shown in the video clip image). They will be under Address 71 - Instruments. As mentioned previously, if you put the mouse over the value, the expected range bubble will appear.

Since the data displayed is live, if you shake the car hard enough to get the fuel to slosh around a bit and can actually move the float, it should display a change in value.

And you're right, as long as you have an existing fault, you can't run an Adaptation.

Here's my software code; your codes will be different, but yours should include +0001 for AWD and +0064 for MRS

View attachment 1

Yes thats exactly what i tried today !!!..

My coding is 0065 so that means Magnetic ride PLUS fuel sender 2 so thats correct !!

Both adaptation on sender 1 & 2 i have checked but they both give NA. As said before i suspect it doesnt give values there because the fault is there and won't clear.

So i checked the advanced measurement blocks (my previous screenshot). And thats where i got the correct reading from sender 1 and no reading at 2...

SO yeah i really think sender 2 is dead Just want to make sure hehehehe

There's nothing more annoying then spending cash on parts and the problem is somewhere else

 

[SwissJetPilot]

Looks like you've nailed it and proven out yet again the value of a VCDS.

The only other thing you might try is to swap both sensors and run the test again. If 2 failed the first time, when you swap it, you should expect 1 to fail. You're going to have to open it up sooner or later anyway. ;-)

Me being me, I would get two new sensors and replace them both the same time. No point doing this little joy-fest twice!

Speaking of which, when you do get around to replacing the senders, would you be so kind and post a DIY for how you go about doing it. Some pictures and basic step-by-step of how you did it would be greatly appreciated.

 

[jaydee77]

Looks like you've nailed it.

The only other thing you might try is to swap both sensors and run the test again. If 2 failed the first time, when you swap it, you should expect 1 to fail. You're going to have to open it up sooner or later anyway. ;-)

Me being me, I would get two new sensors and replace them both the same time. No point doing this little joy-fest twice!

Yeah think so. Gonna do repairs soon and will follow up here what results are.

This forum is super usefull so maybe i can add some knowledge of the things i encounter with my MK2 TTS Coupe

 

[SwissJetPilot]

Anything you can contribute is always appreciated.

I really hope this doesn't happen to me because as you may have noted in the WSM, Roadster owners have to drop the tank to get to get the senders out! :x

 

[jaydee77]

Anything you can contribute is always appreciated.

I really hope this doesn't happen to me because as you may have noted in the WSM, Roadster owners have to drop the tank to get to get the sender out! :x

Yikes.... that would give me headache too

 

[SwissJetPilot]

If this TT is new to you, it would be worth going through this list as many of the service items recommended here are not on the Audi recommended maintenance schedule -

FAQ - Mk2 TT Recommended Maintenance & Service
https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... &t=1932049

 

[jaydee77]

If this TT is new to you, it would be worth going through this list as many of the service items recommended here are not on the Audi recommended maintenance schedule -

FAQ - Mk2 TT Recommended Maintenance & Service
https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... &t=1932049

Thanx allready read it ..... very usefull (and correct) stuff..... i'm doing all repairs myself with help from friends who are all VAG addicts ... so not new to the TT but new to this forum ... it was the only place worth mentioning my fuel issue after a lot of googling

I replied on the Haldex IV filter which doenst need servicing according to Audi (lol)... trust me it DOES (good post on that) , when my came off it was dirty as hell.

 

[jaydee77]

Also did the taillight GROUND fix....

You know when one light is more bright then the other and the annoying light error in the DIS...

Bypass it in the taillight and ground it to your rear booth ground points... great fix and easy DIY

 

[SwissJetPilot]

[smiley=thumbsup.gif]

I found this Youtube and wanted to post it for future reference. A few good points when removing or installing the pump and sensor. And here's a list of potential fault codes related to the fuel pump and sensor, some of which have more information on the Ross Tech website -

Similar faults -
P0148 - Fuel Delivery Error
P0627 - Fuel Pump A Control Circuit /Open
P025A - Fuel Pump Module Control Circuit/Open
P0191 - Sensor for fuel pressure - implausible signal
00438 - Fuel Supply Sensor 2 (G169)

Faults Available on Ross Tech's Website -
P3073 / 12403 - Fuel Pump Circuit Electrical Malfunction
P0230 / 16614 - Fuel Pump Primary Circuit: Malfunction
P0628 / 17069 - ECM Power Relay Control Circuit (J271): Open Circuit
16471 / P0087 / 000135 - Fuel Rail/System Pressure: Too Low

Fuel pump EASY replacement on TFSI engine | Hitachi Automotive

 

[FNChaos]

So what u guys think of that ? Am I right to say that fuel lever 2 sender is really dead (G165) and fuel sender 1 is OK (G) ??

It sure looks like it, but I would caution VCDS requires communication with the device to provide a reading. If you have a bad connection or damaged wiring you could be led down the wrong path.

Looking at your data, a resistance value of 0 from sender2 seems unbelievable (unless wiring shorted to ground). Maybe the signal is just so far out of range VCDS can't interpolate? Before I replaced the senders, I'd retest with your meter.

Combining your VCDS results with the resistance measurements taken at the fuel level senders will help you isolate the cause (i.e. bad resistance measured at the sender + bad VCDS reading = bad sender. Good resistance measured at the sender + bad VCDS reading = bad connection or programming).

 

[jaydee77]

So what u guys think of that ? Am I right to say that fuel lever 2 sender is really dead (G165) and fuel sender 1 is OK (G) ??

It sure looks like it, but I would caution VCDS requires communication with the device to provide a reading. If you have a bad connection or damaged wiring you could be led down the wrong path.

Looking at your data, a resistance value of 0 from sender2 seems unbelievable (unless wiring shorted to ground). Maybe the signal is just so far out of range VCDS can't interpolate? Before I replaced the senders, I'd retest with your meter.

Combining your VCDS results with the resistance measurements taken at the fuel level senders will help you isolate the cause (i.e. bad resistance measured at the sender + bad VCDS reading = bad sender. Good resistance measured at the sender + bad VCDS reading = bad connection or programming).

Good point. I'll retest on de 3-pin connector this week.

Gonna test pin 1+2 but also 2+3 (2+3 should be 340 Ohms)....

 

[SwissJetPilot]

I found this Youtube where the mechanic had to replace a damaged fuel pump/sensor in a VW Golf TDI. The car was rear ended, and the force of the collision caused the two vertical posts to snap, resulting in the pump and sensor laying horizontal inside the tank. If the multimeter and VCDS readings aren't making any sense, it may be worth a look-see inside the tank to see what's going on.

VW Golf TDI Fuel Pump/Level Sensor Replacement

 

[jaydee77]

So what u guys think of that ? Am I right to say that fuel lever 2 sender is really dead (G165) and fuel sender 1 is OK (G) ??

It sure looks like it, but I would caution VCDS requires communication with the device to provide a reading. If you have a bad connection or damaged wiring you could be led down the wrong path.

Looking at your data, a resistance value of 0 from sender2 seems unbelievable (unless wiring shorted to ground). Maybe the signal is just so far out of range VCDS can't interpolate? Before I replaced the senders, I'd retest with your meter.

Combining your VCDS results with the resistance measurements taken at the fuel level senders will help you isolate the cause (i.e. bad resistance measured at the sender + bad VCDS reading = bad sender. Good resistance measured at the sender + bad VCDS reading = bad connection or programming).

Hi .... and the story continues .... I retested sensor 2
On pins 1+2 it says 200 Ohms
On Pins 2+3 it says 340 Ohms and thats the correct value if i understand Chaos....

But VCDS sees no data.... so im beginning to think this is something else.... mainly because my ambient temperature is way off. The dash says its -10/-13 degrees while its like 15 degrees plus.... being the cheapest part i replaced the sensor with a brand new original temp. sensor and guess what...

after replacement still -10/-13 degrees....

So both the tank malfunction AND the temp problem started at the same time... desperate seeking advise now

 

[SwissJetPilot]

For the temp sensor fault -
http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/00779

Looking at the schematic, G17 (OATS), G Fuel Level Sensor (#1) and G169 Fuel Level Sensor (#2) all report to J285 Instrument Cluster Control Module. Wonder if it's the ICCM and not the sensors...???

Have you attempted an Basic setting or Adaptation for any of the sensors?

 

[jaydee77]

For the temp sensor fault -
http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/00779

Looking at the schematic, G17 (OATS), G Fuel Level Sensor (#1) and G169 Fuel Level Sensor (#2) all report to J285 Instrument Cluster Control Module. Wonder if it's the ICCM and not the sensors...???

Have you attempted an Basic setting or Adaptation for any of the sensors?

Yes but the G sensor is functioning (measured correct values in VCDS).

Also a common thing is that G169 and G17 uses earth connection 410 (Earth connection 1 in main wiring harness). But i have no clue where that 410 wire is or where the ground point is.

And of course could be an instrument cluster thing but ... i rather don't want to think of that LOL [smiley=bigcry.gif]

 

[jaydee77]

Oh and for the temp sensor:

It doesnt give a fault code... only incorrect values.... With rainy weather it sometimes throw the fault 00779

 

[SwissJetPilot]

Grasping for straws here, but I found this for the Mk1. No promises

Reviving an old thread because I found it first before I found a solution. In case anyone else ends up here looking for a solution to the issue of the fuel gauge always showing full here it is:

1. Pull the fuse for the fuel pump.
2. Turn the ignition key to on (without starting the car).
3. Turn the ignition off.
4. Put back the fuse for the fuel pump.

This will reset the computer, and you should have a fully functioning fuel gauge again.

Source: https://www.audiforums.com/forum/audi-t ... er-165875/