To be very blunt, Teyes is probably a "brand" that will be gone tomorrow and replaced with another made up name. Unfortunately this is what Ali express sells. It's not sold by the manufacturer but instead by a load of resellers giving their own names to it all. My advice in general is to start clear of it for anything other than simple stuff

 

Agreed. So much comes out of China these days which is made by one company and relabeled and sold by a dozen other resellers. Good example here of four small shop air compressors; same exact parts just with different colors and brand labels. Try a search through Amazon for power tools, battery generators, camping stoves etc., and you will see exactly the same thing - identical items just in a different color with different brand labels.

AliExpress is always a roll of the dice especially when it comes to electronics.

 

To be fair, I did my research and Teyes did initially look one of the better brands. They have a full website that I could have ordered through but I chose Ali as it was cheaper. The second harness I purchased was through the website and was handled by their rep in Australia. I did initially send them a message in an attempt to receive support but was told they weren’t allowed to provide support if I’d bought from China. All a little odd as the new harness was sent from the same place as the actual head unit.
The screen was fried and had a QC sticker but I think it was never tested prior to dispatch. I was a little sceptical about going with an android unit as I have a Samsung phone for work and the interface is awful. This headunit falls into the same category but I was relying on the CarPlay option. I have a CarPlay interface for my A1 that came from Ali and it’s brilliant.
I have a feeling the sound would have been as junk as the screen and interface. I should have bought an Alpine halo 9 in the first place.

 

If you really are going to bin it, can I have it? I'll pay the postage. PM me if you want to discuss.

 

it will probably go on eBay as spares or repair as it has 2 harnesses complete with canbus, an unused facia and it is possible to buy a replacement screen. I could probably get it working but I don’t have the will.

 

In this case you definitely get what you pay for. Hope you are able to sort something out.

 

If you do choose to go for an Alpine, I personally recommend the Alpine 705d with Wireless Carplay. It has many modern features such as a high definition 720p screen, HDMI input in case you want to use an Amazon Fire Stick or similar, fast boot-up time, DAB compatible and superb sound quality allowing you to tweak it to a very accurate level. It also doesn’t look too out of place once the ‘sporty red’ theme is set.
More details / video from my post here if it's of interest:

Headunit Upgrade or Not...?

Hi all, Just looking for some opinions. Would you recommend installing something like a PX6, or just keep the original rns-e + 6 cd changer? Do I need to remove the 6 CD changer if I upgrade? I have been 'mildly critically' testing the speakers with different content, from jazz, flamenco to...

www.ttforum.co.uk

Hope you find a good next alternative.

 

Ive given it another go and I’ve managed to get the screen resolution to almost acceptable. I didn’t dabble to get the sound sorted as I don’t like the interface.
I‘m done with wasting anymore time.

 

If you do choose to go for an Alpine, I personally recommend the Alpine 705d with Wireless Carplay. It has many modern features such as a high definition 720p screen, HDMI input in case you want to use an Amazon Fire Stick or similar, fast boot-up time, DAB compatible and superb sound quality allowing you to tweak it to a very accurate level. More details / video from my post here if it's of interest:

Headunit Upgrade or Not...?

Hi all, Just looking for some opinions. Would you recommend installing something like a PX6, or just keep the original rns-e + 6 cd changer? Do I need to remove the 6 CD changer if I upgrade? I have been 'mildly critically' testing the speakers with different content, from jazz, flamenco to...

www.ttforum.co.uk

Hope you find a good next alternative.

Have this head unit also and just recently I have switched my phone mount over to a mag-safe unit using the same base. This is running from the charging lead from the headunit and on the first run is working a treat.
A side note with the mag-safe mount and brodit base in order for it to fit the pro model phone I made new fixing holes between the existing mounting holes on the base so it fits without intrusion onto the interior trim causing it to not fix securely to the mount.

 

To be very blunt, Teyes is probably a "brand" that will be gone tomorrow and replaced with another made up name. Unfortunately this is what Ali express sells. It's not sold by the manufacturer but instead by a load of resellers giving their own names to it all. My advice in general is to start clear of it for anything other than simple stuff

Blink your T'eyes and next think you know you see the same model under a brand called GoodBait or SureFare, or some other strangely concoted "brand" made of nonsensical English or quasi-English terms, or plays on legitimate brands or characters (I always liken stuff like Chuwi to some bad Star Wars reference and Doogee to the 90s TV kid doctor ).

 

Fitted one today worked perfect had to do a few tweaks which I already knew about from someone who has fitted one successfully already, such as wire the 2 blue amp and ant cables together. Needed a seperate harness for the Bose £29 on Amazon and the small power plug that was already connected had to be swapped over to get it to power up. Around one hour and it was working perfect screen is amazing and sound also much better than my standard stereo!

 

Fitted one today worked perfect had to do a few tweaks which I already knew about from someone who has fitted one successfully already, such as wire the 2 blue amp and ant cables together. Needed a seperate harness for the Bose £29 on Amazon and the small power plug that was already connected had to be swapped over to get it to power up. Around one hour and it was working perfect screen is amazing and sound also much better than my standard stereo!

Hi, I see (especially in your first picture) that, like mine, your CC3 2K head unit is not aligned at all with the lower trim above the AC controls (because of its bulky read plastic cover). But it makes me wonder: since this bulky back cover pushes the fascia to a much higher position than for the other Android HUs, how did you managed to make it fit inside the dashboard, flush with the top trim rim? It seems impossible with mine!

 

I bought the CC3 2K for my TT Mk2 and received it today. I purchased the unit from their official Australian web site as they told me by email that many counterfeit units are sold as "T'EYES" from "TEYES official shop/factory" etc. on AliExpress or Alibaba, that are in fact not theirs! So indeed you have what you pay for it seems.

TL;DR: I ask for help because I don't manage to fit the unit into the dashboard of my TT mk2
See pictures at the end of this post.

Longer story (I strongly advise those who are ready to buy an Android CPU to read it):

This TEYES CC3 2K head unit that I bought (6+128G) works flawlessly in every aspect. It is very snappy with a super fine resolution and colorful display. The sound is deep (Bose vehicle here) and enveloping, and I have not even started to dig into the EQ.

It replaces an old Apline ILX-700 (I made a thread elsewhere back in the days here) that is much smaller and was starting to show signs of fatigue after ten years of loyal service (lately it was taking about 15 minutes to start up when it's a little too hot outside). It also replaces a sh*tty Soarcomer head unit that I was unfortunate enough to buy on AliExpress about a month ago, that showed the same kind of issues as the OP, with absolutely no initial boot before running a dedicated ACC wire from the fuse box and changing their faulty incompatible cable harness by a new one from another seller; a sluggish interface caused by a yummy 8GB of RAM that could never improve the 8 years old bad CPU used inside; and a super pixellated interface in Apple CarPlay (for a 2000x1200 resolution!)
Speaking of Apple CarPlay/Android Auto, the Soarcomer crap was not compatible with wired CarPlay and the wireless mode was so sluggish and pixellated it was worse than anything ever made in that regard. Additionally, to solve these issues, I experienced the worst customer experience of my life with that seller too, an illiterate Chinese who likes to make fun of you in his "support" answers. In the ensuing dispute, AE prove me right in the end but I was only reimbursed half the price or they asked me to send the unit back at my own expense, which, from the Western world to China, is so prohibitive that I refused and accepted their mafia bid.

After such a debacle and a careful review of the section of the XDA forum specialised in Android head units, I realised that not all the devices were alike, even if they "look" alike. My conclusion: you'd better pick a "FYT" one with an UIS7862 CPU or later (future) versions. No need to pick more than 6GB RAM, as the unit won't recognize more (8GB is bullsh*t marketing among these sellers). The "top 3" seem to be Joying (no TT compatibility at least inside a flush dashboard fascia), MEKEDE (the M6 Pro Plus) and T'EYES (the CC3 2K). TEYES actually seems the best, but is is a bit more pricey and they make not effort by opening a warehouse in Europe, they focus mainly on Australia and Russia.

However, I ran into an issue, still unresolved. I wrote to the TEYES support team but won't get a reply for several days. My issue is that I cannot integrate the CC3 2K head unit and its fascia made for the TT MK2 into the dashboard of my car. Trust me, I know how to do it with factory Audi systems, Alpine/Pioneer/Kenwood/Sony/etc. head units, and other slimmer Android HUs. But this one, it seems incompatible because of its bulkier rear cover, especially the lower part on the back.

I tried all the afternoon and the evening up to night in the car to push and deform the dashboard above the HU very hard using flat knifes, a painter's scraper, trim tools… to no avail. Pushing the trim at the maximum, the fascia is still too high by about 5 millimeters and it won't clic. At the bottom, it is about 1.2 cm above the curved plastic part above the AC controls that is normally flush with the fascia.

I'd really like your insight regarding your own experience during this final part of the installation. Is the plastic 2DIN cage in the bay of my dashboard different? My TT is from year 2010.

 

uhhh, you need to remove the lower trim piece which sits above the HVAC controls. It also helps to knock down the lower frame tabs so they insert more easily, since they cannot bend inward as they are pressed up against the side of the unit

 

View attachment 506089

Not related to my problem with the dashboard trim, but regarding your own issue these line artifacts are typically caused by a ribbon LVDS or touchscreen cable that is either faulty (bent/squished) or simply disconnected or badly seated in the connector of the motherboard. I saw this countless times in the computer/phone world (I used to be a repair technician in another life). You may solve the issue by simply unscrewing and opening the head unit, then redo the proper connection of either of these two flat cables (just unplug/replug). Pay attention to the little tilting flap securing each cable into its PCB connector before disconnecting them, and put that shutter in the locked position again before reassembly. If a cable proves to be faulty (but I really think it is only a bad connection) then the solution would be a new one for just a few bucks with free shipping on AliExpress. Not from your marvellous "TEYES" seller but from a seller specialised in these specific cables.

 

I found the answer thanks to the T'EYES support team. The issue is real but the solution is in fact noticed right into their product page for the Audi TT mk2 – I feel a bit ashamed not to have seen it before:
Audi TT (2006-2014)

This, especially:

So I was right in my line of questioning that there is indeed something preventing the installation, and I was also right in my analysis that is was caused by the lower edge of the 2DIN cage in blue in the diagram I provided in my previous post, since this part has to be cut to install the CC3(2K) in the TT according to T'EYES. Nothing to do with the small removable trim piece above the AC controls, sorry Matt Devo

I am relieved to finally know the solution and to know that I must indeed proceed with the sawing 🪚
I am a bit surprised however that nobody replied here to tell me this simple fix, regarding the people who managed to complete the installation for a CC3 or CC3 2K head unit in the TT mk2

 

I am relieved to finally know the solution and to know that I must indeed proceed with the sawing 🪚
I am a bit surprised however that nobody replied here to tell me this simple fix, regarding the people who managed to complete the installation for a CC3 or CC3 2K head unit in the TT mk2

I would return that unit ASAP if they are telling you to saw the cage. Plenty of other FYT-based head units without that problem, that don't run lock-down garbage software like the TEYES units.

 

Just wanted to quickly share my experience. I have had this headunit for 2 years, since i got the car. I tested some others and this is the best one out there. Just expect to have to figure out everything yourself. This isn't the 2k version though.

2 tips:
If it doesn't fit : trim the plastic cage little by little until you can click it in.
If you lose base from the rear speakers : check the wiring on the harness you received. They aren't always wired correctly. You will just have to unclick and reclick the wires in the right holes of the connector.