Hi Jos, Welcome to the TTF.
There is no adjustment & should be no freeplay. Probably the pedal is about to fail.
A welded box that holds the plastic piece that retains the M/C pushrod fails & you then have no clutch.
Check it out before it leaves you stranded.

Hoggy.

 

As Hoggy has suggested or the clutch is goosed and needs replacing, my pedal felt crap when i bought it, first trip on the motorway and found out why, the clutch was knackered, just slipped in higher gears under power.

 

Cheers hoggy for your fast reply,the pedal seems pretty tight but I'll trust you,thank you,can this be welded in place?, probably not so I presume it's the assembly out ,is there parts needed or just a weld,and what kind job is it,thanks again bud!!

 

Cheers Dave ,clutch is sound once you push on pedal to the ground, everything works sweet,can they be welded in place?

 

Cheers Dave ,clutch is sound once you push on pedal to the ground, everything works sweet,can they be welded in place?

No, there is plastic bits in there
There is a few threads and tips on how to get them back in easier, it involves securing the spring with a cable tie for fitting as it can be a pain.
If the pedal is ok then maybe just air in the system

 

Cheers hoggy for your fast reply,the pedal seems pretty tight but I'll trust you,thank you,can this be welded in place?, probably not so I presume it's the assembly out ,is there parts needed or just a weld,and what kind job is it,thanks again bud!!

Hi, If it does fail, remove to weld it & the plastic piece may be damaged & the pushrod can get bent.
The other cause could be the M/C is failing. Can you pull the pedal up & then lose the freeplay?
Hoggy.

 

Hoggy no ,I can the pedal up and push it down almost half the stroke and it engages,I can see the rod going into the cylinder does the plunger/piston stick in the mc?

 

Hi, These causes are common on the TT & other VAG cars.
You should be able to see the weld that fails without a strip down, if it looks O.K. you could bleed the system first to see if any freeplay has gone.
Poor design of the pedal/M/C & no proper return spring doesn't help the operation.
Sometimes the pedal will not return fully, but pulling up with toe restores full operation.
Hoggy.

 

Sorry for all the questions and thank you for your help,the pedal and rid are both tight,I inspected the bit that brakes and it looks fine,the pedal won't pull up any higher then it's resting position and when I push it down the rid goes into the cylinder about 2 inches before it seem to engage with the plunger,the cylinder is dry but does have a little white discoloring,it's like the plunger us stuck back and not returning to fully out,the pedal is not spongy and once engaged feels perfect just a short stroke,doesn't feel like air,I might add the car was parked up a year or so,,thanks again

 

Hi, Unusual for the piston/seal to stick but I suppose it's possible with lack of use & from your description now it does appear that is happening.
Hoggy.

 

When my slave cylinder failed in my s3, the pedal slowly dropped over a couple of days.. then low fluid alarm followed by total failure.

 

Just went out sprayed the mc with wd and kept pumping ,and the pedal hit the floor ,a black plastic broken clip fell on the floor ,when I inspected it I could see the rod with a white clip is sticking out jamming the pedal in place,again the bit that usally needs welding looks good,is it possible the clip just broke?, either way I'd say pedal out and weld it either way

 

Ignore the rest i'v typed, you might have found the problem lol The black plastic clip might be for the clutch switch, this needs to work.

If the pedal won't pull up more than it's resting position then the cylinder is not sticking.
There is no spring on the pedal arm so its the spring in the cylinder, clutch plate and the system full of fluid that holds the pedal up.
Give it a good bleed, the brake res is also for the clutch so keep it topped up. The bleed nipple is not at the end of the system, Bleed as normal then press the clutch and hold and open the nipple slowly , this will get any air out of the slave as the clutch engages pushing the slave back. Manual says to pump it 20 times or something like that??

There is also a clutch damper on the bulkhead. Circular device about 40mm diameter, i removed mine, gives a more direct pedal feel. You would need a 10mm brake line joiner about 40mm long

 

Ha ha ,she's going nowhere now,the rod isn't been held in place,clips broken,I'll stick a baby vicegribs on it tomorrow get her up to the workshop,,I'd say pedal out,I hate working on my own shit!!!the clips still available from Audi?

 

I bought a replacement white push-in clip and black plastic clip from ebay.

Is it possible the master cylinder has broken? They're a bit annoying to remove, need to undo whilst laying over the engine to reach down the back.

 

Stuart ,don't think so mc looks alright,my tools are in work ,I'll clip on a baby vicegribs to the rod tomorrow and check it,I just looked on you tube and a guy pult the bottom cover off and it opened right up ,I reckon you get the torch in there no bother and weld pedal in place, regardless seems easy to pull out ,I just bought her cheap as a midlife crisis car,once it's not a clutch I'll fix it,,I find it hard to motivate myself to work on my own yokes these years,but iam loving the car hard to scrap her,

 

Hi, Part No. if required.
Pedal..1j2721319c
white nylon piece..1h0721357
black switch stop..1j2721332a
Hoggy.

 

Good man hoggy,they Audi numbers,ya reckon the pedal needs the weld ??

 

Good man hoggy,they Audi numbers,ya reckon the pedal needs the weld ??

Hi, Even if it's not broken, weld the box anyway.
"New" pedal supposed to be improved but doesn't appear to be any different.
Hoggy.

 

Thanks guys for all yere help!!

 

And while I have ye,I've noticed on the oil cap a lot of carbon,has anyone ever ran 5w 30 low sap 507 spec it's for diesels,cleans as it goes??,or any tips on engine cleaners,or should I just replace puck up,us that hard to do?,no problem now but as a preventative,cheers

 

I replaced my pedal a week or so ago on a preventative basis and also bought new clips from an Audi dealer .
I wouldn't recommend eBay as last time I looked the prices on there were a rip-off, something like £15-16 the pair .
Mine came from Crewe Audi and delivered the prices were

1H0721357 £1.62 (white)
1J2721332A £5.20 (black)

£6.82 the pair

Bit of a difference :x

There are a couple of threads on here about replacing the pedal , IMH not a bad job at all .

https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... &t=1592305

 

Hi. The Audi recommended oil spec is 504/507 5w-30.
Carbon on the oil cap?
Sump strainer clean up/replace is always recommended. Hardest part are the bolts at transmission end of sump.
Hoggy.

 

Ya hoggy I've noticed over the years that if you pull off the cap and look at the back of it and look into the rocker cover you will sometimes see little black bits of carbon stuck to them,and if your seeing them there it's an indicator to what's going on under the rocket covers,you shouldn't see them,IAM talking tiny little black specs,but Iam a diesel mechanic and always have plenty of the 507 spec and use it in anything that takes 5w 30 ,it's a better oil ,it cleans as it goes,

 

Sorry hoggy so your saying it's recommend anyway,does the tt have the same engine as the VW Passat1.8 turbo?,cos I know the pick up is always choking in them