Looks like moving the charcoal canister out of the way will be required from up top as recommended in the Workshop Manual. Removal of the front wheel and arch liner may or may not be necessary in order to get to the idler pulleys, but the under pan trays will definitely have to be taken off. I could barely get my hand and wrench on the top idler pulley so that's going to be an under the vehicle event. Plus it makes it possible to verify the belt is positioned properly on the crank and AC pulleys.

 

Great work Swiss. Could be a good time to replace your charcoal cannister as well if youve never done it. Also the valve (whose name escapes me) that leads to it.

 

The N80..?? Well, it's a start. MT-V6 is already ahead of me in ordering his parts. I'm just doing the research!

With regards to the Canister and Valve, you mean this one?

How to: Audi TT Mk2 (8J) EVAP Faults N80 & EVAP Canister
https://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... &t=1850235

 

Parts Required -
1.) Belt Tensioner PN 022 145 299 L
2.) Idler Pulley PN 022 145 276 F (x2)
3.) V-Belt: PN 022 145 933 Note: Verify correct length for your model -
• AH = 21.36 x 1235-mm
• AP = 21.36 x 1610-mm

As in your photo, I also have tensioner 022 145 299 H which was superseded by 022 145 299 L in 02/2008, if that helps with cross referencing parts. I've yet to order this, it's not supplied by the usual Euro Car Parts/GSF so I'll have to look further

And I have belt 6PK1610 - 022 145 933 AG which was superseded by 022 145 933 AP in 12/2008. Most non-Audi parts catalogues bring up a 6PK1613 belt though, that is what the Dayco one I've ordered is. The tensioner should make up for the 3mm extra

I think the 1235mm belt is for non A/C cars, which I have not actually heard of, must be in specific markets only?

Finally, the idle rollers I assume we both have fitted are 022 145 276 C, superseded by 022 145 276 F in 07/2008. I have order INA replacements

 

I agree, the longer 1610-mm belt makes sense with AC. Not sure who would order a vehicle without one, but it's also mentioned some may not have it the WS Manuals when referencing the HVAC.

 

Yes that is the valve and just another weak point that can be crossed off the list for an older car. Did mine last last year.

 

Just out of curiosity for what these parts cost I've listed a few sources out of Germany -

(1) Belt Tensioner PN 022 145 299 L
• DAYCO Belt Tensioner, V-Ribbed Belt, Item No.APV3021, €107.36 (AutoDoc.de)
• INA Tension Arm, V-Ribbed belt, Item No. 534 0246 10, €73.76 (AutoDoc.de)
• NTN-SNR Tensioner, Item No. GA357.54, V-Ribbed Belt, €56.48 (AutoDoc.de)
• SNR Keilrippenriemen-Spannrolle Art.-Nr.: GA357.54, €33,32 (Daparto.de)
• Audi Parts/Service €83.40

(2) Idler Pulley PN 022 145 276 F (x2)
• DAYCO Pulley V-Ribbed Belt, Item No. APV2520, €42.24 ea (AutoDoc.de)
• INA Pulley V-Ribbed Belt, Item No. 532 0479 10, €14.80 ea (AutoDoc.de)
• NTN-SNR Pulley V-Ribbed Belt, Item No. GA357.61, €17.07 ea (AutoDoc.de)
• INA Keilrippenriemen-Umlenkrolle Art.-Nr.: 532047910, €11,16 ea (Daparto.de)
• Audi Parts/Service €46.60 ea

(3) V-Belt: PN 022 145 933AP [21.36mm x 1610mm]
• BOSCH V-Ribbed Belts, Item number 1.987.947.983 (1610mm), €10.41 (AutoDoc.de)
• DAYCO V-Ribbed Belts, 6PK1610HD (1610mm) €10.69 (AutoDoc.de)
• INA Keilrippenriemen Art.-Nr.: FB6PK1613, €8,20 (Daparto.de)
• Audi Parts/Service € 44.95

 

I have the parts now, just need to fit them in the coming weeks

The idler pulleys did come with replacement bolts, but the tensioner didn't. Probably not required, but I might get a new one from Audi

 

I have the parts now, just need to fit them in the coming weeks

The idler pulleys did come with replacement bolts, but the tensioner didn't. Probably not required, but I might get a new one from Audi

View attachment 444343

Thread resurrection! did you get the tensioner from GSF, they're the only one that I've found that stocks one but its listed as an unbranded premium part

 

Just curious where you picked up your parts and what they cost.

 

From CarParts4Less (Euro Car Parts) and GSF, just under £110 all in

 

For the sake of a single bolt, I have bought a replacement for the tensioner, as a new one isn't supplied. It's surprising long, at M10x85mm. Part number is N 910 329 01

It's isn't threadlocked either

I plan do this in a few weekends time when I am free, but I have all the parts needed now

 

I replaced this at the weekend, a surprisingly easy job.

The charcoal canister gets in the way, simple to move it out of the way with 2 10mm bolts and a 10mm nut. It doesn't need to be disconnected, just put aside:

The belt can then be seen:

Access to the lower pulleys is easy with the lower arch liner/undertray removed. The large main undertray doesn't need removing:

Take the tension off the belt by using a breaker bar on the 16mm head on the tensioner, in an anti-clockwise direction, and put a pin through the two holes. I don't have a photo of this but it can be seen in this photo of my replacement one:

Definitely needed replacing:

The idler pulleys can now be removed, again they are held with 16mm bolts. The upper one is easy, a long extension helps. The lower one is awkward as the undertray mounting frame in right in the way... A spanner and a long extension can be held on it, and tapped with a hammer from the engine bay:

Torque up the replacements to 40Nm:

The tensioner is the same process. Undo the spline M12 bolt and refit the new one to 50Nm. PS. don't forgot to take off the tension and remove the pin from it before you remove it!

Fit the new belt and then take the tension off:

1 - Idler roller
2 - Vibration damper
3 - Coolant pump
4 - Tensioning roller
5 - Alternator
6 - Idler roller
7 - Air conditioner compressor

I rotated the engine via the crank pulley a couple of turns to make sure the new belt was seated properly before starting the engine.

 

Nice explanation, looks straight forward enough. Well done!

1.) How old is your belt and how many miles on it?

2.) What was the condition of the tensioner and idler rollers? Any obvious damage or wear; worn spring, wobbly wheels or squeaky axles?

3.) Do you think this could this be done with the car up on ramps with the under pans removed, rather than on jack stands and going through the wheel arch?

 

I assume it is the original, so mid 2007 and about 90k. I think the age is possibly the biggest factor here unless the car is especially high mileage

The cracks weren't visible while fitted, it was the slight fray that prompted me to replace it. Though there is are noticeably deeper grooves in the old belt too

It could easily be done on ramps but the main undertray will need removing. That would probably make it easier to get leverage on the lower pulley, but you'd have to reach up a bit higher to get to the top one. Possibly the part that will be most difficult will be feeding the new belt round, are you wouldn't have a great view from above or below

 

Oh and the removed tensioner and pulleys seemed fine but whether or not they'd last the life of the new belt I'm not sure. The pulleys are so cheap it doesn't make sense not to replace them

The tensioner is easy to get to if you decide to replace later on, though if that fails the belt will be scrap again anyway, so I'd say replace the lot for peace of mind

 

For those looking to buy a tensioner, I came across something interesting on the old Audi part.

The "SKF" one I bought was actually a Litens part:

Who are actually the OEM manufacturer of the Audi part:

They even both have "0489" on them (though the SKF part number is VKM 31070.

The "INA' idler pulleys were also branded as Litens, though the Audi parts don't have any manufacturer markings.

 

Been looking for all these parts for my 2006 mk2 3.2 and can't find all of them, anybody know where I can get them all from the same place??

 

Tried Euro Car Parts and GSF?

 

Ordered all my parts, purchased all parts manufactured by SKF apart from the pulley bolt.

 

Very cool guide! Will definitely bookmark it. I like how it shows a possibly original belt going 13 years and 90 miles on.

And @SwissJetPilot, you crossed to the dark "premium" side of the forum I see 😲

 

@ wsantos - Seems they gave it to me. Now I can minimize the column on the right to make the posts wider. Whoop-te-freekin'-do!
On a more serious note, if you're working on your TT, you may find this post useful since the links are specific to the 3.2 VR6 (BUB) engine -

FAQ - Mk2 3.2 VR6 (BUB) Maintenance & Service

Maintenance & Service - As the title indicates, these are service and maintenance procedures specific to the 3.2 VR6 (BUB) engine. For a better idea of what's inside, I've linked a YouTube video from 2007 of a cut-away 3.2 VR6 engine which shows many of the hidden features like the cyclone...

www.ttforum.co.uk

 

@ wsantos - Seems they gave it to me. Now I can minimize the column on the right to make the posts wider. Whoop-te-freekin'-do!

They gave it to me too - big deal - no idea why…
jez

 

Managed to change my drive belt today after the tensioner poohed its pants & threw the belt

I managed to get it all changed without moving the charcoal cannister & also got a 3/8” ratchet on the bottom pulley

All in all a pretty easy job, took me just over an hour to get it all swapped over although I think having the belt already off saved 10mins

 

Nice one. That old tensioner looks a right state. What mileage was it at out of interest?

Also what brand is the tensioner? I can't make it out from your photo? Is it Litens in another brands box?

 

The cars on 89k, the old belt doesnt look that bad even after a journey round the engine bay

The tensioner is in a Dayco box from GSF, its not marked Litens as yours was, the only markings on it are LAT 0489 although the pulleys are Litens from Carparts4less

 

That's interesting then. Audi OEM Litens and Litens, and Dayco all have 0489 on them. Must be a reference to the design of them